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It can be frustrating but you just have to take one problem at a time (or so I tell myself....LOL)

Now I am chasing electrical gremlins (not with the 6 pack, just in general). I rewired the entire car so there were a couple of things that need adjusting and modifying.

I just got the 69 Ply wagon with a 440 and Fitech tri-power running yesterday. So far it works pretty well.

In many instances I firmly believe that stock disc/drum brakes are fully adequate for street use so long as they are in good shape and have decent components. The disc/disc thing has become a status or bling issue for most and has very little to do with improving the braking. Too many people are...

Look at Rivoli sunglasses, they are awesome for cutting down the glare.

I have a lot of Mopars pretty much all which had 8 3/4 rear ends and never spit one, these were 440 cars, 383, cars, etc. Crap happens with everything and I do not think this condemns the breed. But if you are racing the car perhaps a Dana or 9" is worth the piece of mind.

I weld all of mine to the floor, to me it makes for a far more solid/strong. I know that with my Cuda which has a USCT SFCs on it they are as solid as any part of the factory frame.

:(

The one I am going to be using on my 426 has sealing rings, they are a nylon type material.

Yep down in Yelm near Ft Lewis/Olympia. I see that much of the auto x stuff is more up north of me, past Seattle. I need to just go and watch one and ease into it. I know if I go I will get in to it, problem is that takes from building them... LOL Where are you open road racing? Yes I know I...

Thanks. I have researched it a number of times but just never get off my butt and go and do it. I did an auto X event at the MATS one year with a 66 Barracuda Lemons car, made 2 runs and loved it. I don't really have any car "buddies" around here so I am pretty much an island unto myself most of...

Id love to road race or even just auto X but never really go after it but I will some day. I would like auto X because it isn't as hard on the car plus takes less resources. I'd like to try with my 10 Challenger RT, then my 01 Viper and then move onto my 73 Cuda (which I built with road racing...

That is a great video (the first one), there are a lot of examples of NASCAR and Trans-am cheating especially in the early cars. Very interesting.

Depends on what your intentions are, if you want to remain true to the era then I think you are going to have to use iron heads. Obviously you can get iron heads to flow and work well. If however performance is more important than aluminum heads may yield better results.

Like most I prefer Summit over JEGs but recently I ordered a mid rise lift and a 5.7 crate engine from JEGS because they were cheaper. The lift showed up relatively quickly but the engine was back ordered (as it was on Summit) but did arrive prior to their listed date.

They seem like a "neat" idea but I suspect that at some point the electric ones will fail due to carbon build up; either won't open or close and given the price of them I wouldn't do it. Back in the day I worked at an exhaust shop and we made a lot of cut outs wherein we had a 3" freeze plug...

I run Optimas in all my cars except my Viper and I have both Red and Yellow tops, while I like them generally it seems like when they start to go south they take a turn straight down. There are much better batteries out there like the XS. I like the Optima's because they are easy to find, but I...

That sounds like some urban myth or internet BS.... I DEFINITELY would not be drilling any holes in new heads.

Gotcha, well there are far worse options out there, what about no scoop?

Well if you like it, then I guess its good.... definitely not my "cup of tea".