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Pulling the transmission will not happen until I am ready to upgrade. I readjusted the shifter linckage and the kick down linckage. I now have full throttle and it has a lot more power down low. I have all three gears. I was two quarts low so it is now running better. Each time I go through...

I pulled the valve body yesterday. Nothing out of the ordinary in the pan. I cleaned the valve body and air tested the transmission. It took a couple of hits of air to get one of the clutches to actuate. I assume it was stuck from sitting. I got it all back together and it is over reving...

I did drive to work this morning.

Every gear works but 3rd. Stock transmission with stock valve body and stock style converter. I am going to pull the valve body in the morning.

I have 2.94 gears so it isn't rapped tight. The torque converter and transmission where drained before I put it back in the car a month or so ago. The rattle is only under a heavy load at slower speeds.

I have a 727 with l as than 10k miles on it. I took my car down for winter upgrades and four years later she is back up and running. The motor is rebuilt and running great but I don't have third anymore. I have adjusted the linckage and it shifts into park, reverse and neutral perfectly. To...

The next question is how does it come a part. Guess I will take the axles out again this weekend and pull the center section.

An open diff looks to be the same. My assumption is that the rear end must be taken apart to remove the thrust block to go with the green bearings. Or would I happen to be lucky and can just run the green bearings without removing the thrust block?

I would replace your seals. You can rent a slide hammer from an auto parts store with the correct 3 or 4 finger removal tool. Then install using a seal installation tool also available from your auto parts store. I had my housing out and in the back of my truck. I handed the counter guy my...

Call Bill at RMS. or search for his parts list on this swap. I beleive the write up is at Moparts or For A bodies only.... It is on big block Dart. http://www.bigblockdart.com/forum/showthread.php?3985-T-56-6-speed-discussion-updated-06-28-09/page8 Good read with good info. This is not...

Check out the adapters for a 46RH tranny. It is a small block tranny but is designed off of a 727 with a 4th gear. They can be built to hold plenty of power. If I stay sisy stick I will be going for the 46rh.

I am putting one in my stock bottom end but freshened up 440 with Edelbrock heads, intake and 750 Holly.

I assume that the stock push rods will not withstand the spring pressures also. (that is if they happened to be the correct length)

The glass is always full, it may not be full of a liquid but it is full of something.

I had my 727 rebuilt here in Oklahoma for 550. I dropped it off one day and got it back 3 or 4 days later with a 1 year warranty if I brought it back in once it was in the car and running. They wanted to check and insure the kickdown was adjusted correctly for the warranty.

Here in Oklahoma there is Blumenthals. They specialise in semi's but do have a great reputation. You may expand your search and look at heavy truck repair shops. You could always do it yourself. The more I take apart (and get back together) the more I realise this stuff is not rocket science...

Thank you gentlemen. It will be a week or two before I get to work on it. Since this is my daily driver I will just have to plan my parking. I have been dealing with it for two weeks so another week or two is no big deal.

Will I be able to get the reverse strut rod in at the same time?

On a 727 (1978 small block in a power wagon) can the reverse servo arm be taken out and put in without taking the transmission completely apart? The center part that pushes on the low reverse strut rod broke and needs replaced along with the rod reinstalled. Thank you.

Is there something hitting the timing cover? Could it be a pulley touching somewhere?