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The manual boxes have a high temp high pressure grease that is not a fluid. If you search the toppic you will find a good thread that a few guys talked about what grease they used.

My first muscle car was a 1966 Satelite with a 273. We beat the puss tons out with a BFH and it took some work to get them out! From the garage we picked it up out of I could see the ocean. Great view and the body was in good shape but the engine was toast.

I have a lot to do before she is ready for fuel. The motor needs put together and painted then installed, tranny needs drained, new neutral safety switch, and painted, rear brakes need put on, axle bearings pressed on, and on and on.

Pics

Reilly Motorsports (RMS) is a square tube but very popular with a very good reputation.

I don't know what to take pics of except maybe the gauge at full and empty.

On another forum I was pointed towards Dixie Restoration. I purchased their part and it looks good but I have not tested it yet. http://www.dixierestorationparts.com/

From the wheel well side but over frame.

take it to a shop that has the socket. 20 bucks later you will walk out the door with the new ball joints installed.

Elastomers, timing, tuning (more fuel per given air flow). I think if you check some of the other area's there may be some topics and people that are racing with straight ethanol.

I don't know about this but their quality is as good as anyone else.

First thing is ditch the throttle return spring and buy the correct ones (plural) there are supposed to be two incase one breaks!!!! I would clean the crap out of it, check over and adjust the brakes, add the vacuum advance, tune it up then add gas and go. You will probably want to rewire...

That is awesome!

It all depends on the car. I got a 67 Charger manual off of ebay years ago in print form for around 30 bucks but I let it go with the car when I sold it. For the 66 Charger I have now I got a digital copy for 10 or 20 bucks.

to do this you also have to unbolt your lower ball joint. You may think about changing them and the strut rod bushings or upgrade to the firm feel or Hotchkis adjustable strut rods. I have the Hotchkis but the firm feel do look easier to adjust as the Hotchkis you have to adjust, tighten up the...

Car up and front wheels off. Losen torsion bar adjuster torsion bar retaining clip, slide torion bar boot up the torion bar (at the torsion bar crossmember) and slide torsion bar back. remove lower ball joint from knuckle losen bolt on pivot shaft remove bolt on strut rod (I would do this at...

So you where on the pivot shaft? If so it isn't the end of the world. I have a set for sale used in the mechanical forum and you can get new one's from FirmFeel, Hotchkis, and PST. The Hotchkis and Firm Feel are greasable and what I have now.

it is easier to fix it now then try and take it out later.

Solid 360 rebuild and then some turbo's later on!!!! I voted 440 because that is what I have.

I guess we are lucky here in Oklahoma. Almost all of the privately owned gas stations are ethenal free. I use it in all of our engines (Harley, Charger, lawn mower)