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Ma Mopar did this with the little 18" radiators they used on the /6's sometimes...big side brackets so the little rad could bolt up to the bigger 22" rad support. ;)
1WildR/T is correct...the coronet 440 model did not get the side scallops, only the 500 got those. The Coronet 440 got the long stainless trim from fender to tail panel along the top body line. So someone added those at some point in the cars life.
I did a quick and dirty repaint of one of the fenders on my old 84 W350 cummins cewcab last winter with the roll on Tremclad/Rustoleum technique. I didn't spend the time or effort to make it really pretty with good body work or primer, or wet sanding it well between coats, and it turned out...
Something to be said for having a car with not so nice paint and interior etc.
My 68 T/C wagon had no motor and tranny when I bought it, but was rust free with 67K original miles. It had one repaint probably back in the 80's and cleaned up decent, interior was all original with just a small...
I'd want to get it up high enough to crawl around under it...bring a small plastic/rubber mallet and tap/tap/tap any area you think is suspect...should be able to hear the difference between clean metal and metal with filler.
I know we all seem like we are being negative and not supportive but a lot of us have been in your exact same situation and no one ever gave us advice, opinions or reasons why we should just walk away....I know that is why I ended up $35K in metal work and paint (this was 25 years ago) on a car...
I learned this lesson the hard way when I restored my 1968 Coronet 500 convertible. Now I will pay a premium price for a rust free car and gladly pay the extra costs to have it shipped to me.
Rust is like an iceberg...what you see is only 25% of what is actually present.
When the time comes I'd strip the car down to the bare bones and then have it blasted inside, out and underneath if possible...soda or walnut shells, or other media that won't warp panels. Once you have the car in...
I remember talking to an old fellow many years ago at a car show...original owner of a 70 RR and still sporting all original pristine sheet metal even though he drove it year round for a many many years. He said the trick was to "oil" the car...he said he would dump a quart of oil in each...
The length and curve really make it a difficult piece to ship safely. I'd say go by a local furniture store and see if you can rummage through theeir bin to see of you could find some large pieces of Styrofoam you could shape to support the valance, as well as large pieces of cardboard you can...
I sure someone will chime in who knows for sure, but I don't think a 65 front sheet metal would be the same...maybe the frame rails? I think you need a 66-68 B-body for a proper swap. And like the front end sheet metal I don't think the floor pans are the same...again 66-68.
But I look...
When I restored a 68 Coronet 500 Convertible it was a Y2 car, and the second colour you got is the one that looks closest to what I had put on my car, I matched my paint to the original Y2 on the steering wheel saddle up under the dash so it was most likely fairly accurate. The paint in...
In my younger and dumber days I did some painting with no mask at all, lungs hurt like a mother for weeks after that.....sure that won't come back to bite me in the *** as i get older. :( You can always grow the beard back...better safe then sorry. ;)