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I’ve had the sniper professionally tuned. Still could be an issue. I would say the compression is somewhere between 7.0 to 8.0-1 On a side note, what would a 69 426 Hemi .030 short block with 150 miles on it go for? I can get a 572 hemi short block and reuse a lot of the parts I already have.

I have a blown 426 hemi in my GTX. I removed the blower and put dual quad intake and Snipers on it. It runs good except for some popping out of the exhaust at idle, which may be from the lower compression I’m assuming. The whole build has about 150 miles on it since being built in the late 80’s...

Yes, I know the current pistons are .030 over and it has about 100 miles on the engine since being built in the late 80’s. Came from Alaska where it was trailered everywhere and only driven occasionally around the block during a few warm months.

Hughes Engines has a stroker kit for a .030 over 426 which would make it a 472. Would my stock block need any machining/clearancing for this kit? Kit listed below: Molnar Technologies brand 4340 Nitride Forged Steel 8 bolt Crankshaft - 4.150" Stroke Molar Technologies "H" Beam Forged Steel...

I ended up keeping it for now. I was going to get the 426 crate motor from Indy Cylinder Heads last month for $23,500. Just checked today and they jacked the price up to $30,500. Forget that crap! Looks like I’ll be building this motor.

I just pulled the 6-71 blower off my Hemi and want to keep everything under the stock hood. I would like to be around 600hp. Is that possible with an original 68 block or do I need an aftermarket block? My engine has about 100 miles on it since being built in the late 80’s. It is .030 over with...

Not exactly sure, but I was at 4 psi at 63% throttle. Haven’t opened it up all the way.

Yes, I’m assuming stock stroke. I bought it this way. I want to pull the blower off and go back to dual quads, but I don’t have the funds or a quality shop around here to do the work. I want it to still run under its own power to get it on/off a trailer and into the garage. How would it run with...

OK, let me rephrase my question. I know I can get 600hp out of this engine after blower is removed. If I removed the blower and intake, replaced with a single dominator intake and put the throttle body back on, would the engine still be able to run decent enough to be able to drive it on a...

I have an original 68 426 hemi in my 68 GTX. Not a “J” code car (originally 440) It has a 6-71 Weiand blower with Holley Sniper EFI. Runs great. Tuned to about 700 horsepower. I was trying to sell it to put a 572 back in and keep it under the hood. If I sold the blower and Crager intake, would I...

I will give this a try. How do I turn it over slow enough to watch the valve move by myself? I feel my 2 year old will give me false info!!

Yes, I meant the preload. It had a slight tick on both sides. I thought what better way to learn how to adjust them. I used to do Chevys with custom valve covers so I could adjust while running. Not so easy on a Hemi.

I am trying to adjust my rockers on a 426 Hemi. It has hydraulic lifters. It was running fine until I decided to adjust them while I had the valve covers off. I have the picture of which valves to adjust after each 90 degree turn. Tried that and now runs like crap and won’t idle. I don’t have a...

There’s a shop out there that I may take it to for the alignment. Sounds like I can test it out on El Rodeo after it’s finished. Thanks

The tuner asked to run it up to 5000 rpm’s. This is what the data log showed at that rpm. The TPS was at 62% with 4psi of boost. This is what he calculated the HP to be with this data. Once I get an alignment and can find a stretch of road that I can run, I will open it up more and send that...

It’s only money

So, working the numbers backwards, it could probably be closer to 650-700 hp with the 330 lbs/hr as it was logged? I can give it another try with more throttle, more boost and see where the fuel in lbs/hr comes back at.

No wheel dyno close. May have to take it to Phoenix or Vegas for that. I have a 33 tooth on the blower and 37 tooth on the crank. It was reversed when I bought it, but probably wasn’t producing any boost with it underdriven. It does get hot quick. I can give it more throttle, but the data log...

I did not build this engine, but the information listed below is what was told to me by the previous owner who had it built in the late 80's. 1968-426 original block bored .030 over Arias 7-1 forged blower pistons Crane hydraulic cam, unknown specs, but said it was mild Stage V aluminum heads...

No, it had 40 miles put on the engine in the last 30 years (Alaska) I recently changed head gaskets and oil, ran it a few miles, then changed the oil again. Now it’s fresh oil with 20 miles on it. I bought a new drain pan and will run it through paint filters before putting it back in.