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Yes it should be OK if you do them one at a time.

Wiring faults like yours can be a pain in the ***. However you must get to the bottom of the fuse blowing or risk damaging the new wiring. The fuse blowing is warning you a circuit is not right.

The most important and the first problem to solve is the fuse blowing fault. That has nothing to do with ground. It is already going straight to ground somehow.

Might pay to check all the rockers and valve springs before worrying about the carb.

That looks like some sort of scam - high tech material numbers and fancy process names that no such material exists.

True - but I was just pointing out it is not super hard or should not be really pricey to get the crank done so you can use the standard bush and not cut the snout.

Any competent machinist with a large enough lathe with a long enough bed and the appropriate steady would be able to set the crankshaft up and get it running true. Put the damper snout in the chuck and support the rear of the crank with the steady. From there drilling/machining a crank to the...

Make sure you change the oil and filter after say 20-30 miles or if the car cannot be driven after a few starts. The engine will benefit from fresh clean oil.

None - it will coat all over the spark plug tips. Prime the oil system properly to ensure the pump/oil pressure is good and fire it up.

The AVS is calibrated quite lean from the factory so it might "flutter" but it is unlikely to hurt the engine as there is no load. My AVS has a very slight flutter on cruise but it causes no issue. I can tell it is there but a passenger cannot. So I just leave it alone. There is another...

Just remember that pulling off the vacuum advance may seem to help or eliminate the problem without being the actual cause. If the engine is stock it will be best with the vacuum advance fitted as this promotes a complete burn of a lean mixture - such as what is required at light throttle...

Try removing the vacuum advance as suggested by pnora first. Make sure you block the tube from the carburettor. On the AVS you would change the needles most likely. If it turns out to be the carb the best way is to use an AF meter or take it to a reputable tuner with a suitable rolling road -...

From your description it sounds like it is a little lean at cruise.

That air inlet tube does not necessarily need to go to the air cleaner base or the filter lid - but it is the way many OE manufacturers including Mopar did the PCV system until I guess accountants decided they could save 30 cents per vehicle and simply have the air inlet on the valve cover. The...

With the engine running you should be able to "suck" the PCV valve to your thumb if you pull it out of the valve cover grommet. The suction is generally reasonably strong if yours is to weak it could be the problem - or part of it.

Just one extra point. Put a little hose clip around that 90 degree plastic fitting where it goes on to the steel casing of the PCV valve. They are often loose and leak vacuum.

That PCV valve is correct.

The PCV valve does not look correctly mounted in the valve cover grommet in the pics?????????????

I know these hoods look similar but are they actually interchangeable? Will the 1969 scoops fit in a 68 hood? Thanks Steve

Good news you can get back to driving it after a victory.