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If this applies..I went from a 60 amp to 100 amp and did nothing except with the 100...the regulator was inside the unit...hate to say it but it's a chrome GM alternator but it works and I don't care about that
I would first check to see if the power for the faulty portion is getting to the connector. A simple power trouble light can pierce the wire before the connector. Ground should be established for the light once it's set in the taillight. An ohm meter can verify that.
To change the...
I went to a 100 amp one wire chevy alternator with the regulator in the alternator....one less item on the firewall...less wires....chrome case and 100 dollars....good deal I believe
Installed new LED's in 67 R/T and they are bright but will not flash with turn signals...stock bulbs work fine. Different flaher ? anyone use them ? Thanks in advance
jump the starter relay on the firewall and see if it turns over after ensuring 12+ volts at battery
first things I'd do
ensure the battery cables are clean and tight....loose ones work good...then bad...somtimes good...get the drift
As I understand it, when grounding the original unit to see gauge deflection, you cannot do it for a long period of time. Once full deflection is seen, the time is up. You most likely took the gauge out now and that is why the new unit appears bad
mine has an eyelet and goes to the stud that holds the column up..unless you are a "purest"..ground is ground the world around...so it can work on any grounded part,stud,bolt,etc