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I have a factory ammeter in my '68 and aftermarket voltmeter also... the ammeter reads just on the minus side but voltmeter reads 14 volts.. why is this, the battery goes dead if I have key on and work on the four way or some other small drain for a half hour.. car running I removed the neg...

turn on my headlights and all the lights work except the headlights.. the harness connector from the bulkhead looks a bit melted at the secondary connection near the battery... is there some way to disconnect the harness at the connector by the battery location and hot wire the head lights to...

'63 Plymouth 318.. I believe the distributor is from a 73/74 vehicle (3656673) .. think the pick up is going as the car runs drives and shuts off whenever.. won't start then after a few minutes starts and drives.. etc. so I buy this pictured piece for a '73 and the plate is different than what...

OK ..I removed the battery to get at the power steering hoses ( a whole other story) and replaced the battery and NOW this @#$%^&*() car won't start ..if I jump the relay it will ..guess I jarred something ..I have three wires and I have no idea where they go or if they are the cause or if...

first let me say I'm not crazy ..others have heard this.... just put after market radio in my car played fine for a week or so........ NOW when I drive all the speakers distort ..not static like from plug wires or alternator whine but like there cutting in and out real quick.. and ..this happens...

replaced 318 with 440 ..the engine ran fine on initial start up but original carb leaked gas ..NOW ..with different carb (which came off good running car) has backfire through exhaust when you give it gas ... took the valve cover off got piston up to TDC both valves closed set distributor to #1...