“Race Only” voltage reg???

[6290988]

So my regulator went bad and I’m replacing that. Decided to replace the voltage regulator also. I didn’t test it but figured it’s old so why not. Looked up the part number and found it at Summit. Description says “race only”. My motor is a stock 383 4 barrel intake with mopar electronic ignition. Nothing done to it performance wise except headers.

Should I go back to a stock one or replace it with the same one? Why’s it Race only?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3690732

 

[451Mopar]

So my regulator went bad and I’m replacing that. Decided to replace the voltage regulator also. I didn’t test it but figured it’s old so why not. Looked up the part number and found it at Summit. Description says “race only”. My motor is a stock 383 4 barrel intake with mopar electronic ignition. Nothing done to it performance wise except headers.

Should I go back to a stock one or replace it with the same one? Why’s it Race only?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3690732

View attachment 520732

Those were supposed to be a constant voltage regulator, did not compensate voltage for temperature. Never was a problem, I think they regulate at about 13.5 volts?
Might be an issue in cold winter weather when the regulators normally put out around 14 volts or so?
There is an electronic replacement regulator that looks like the stock units that works good too.
Like this:
https://www.ebay.com/i/201249070790?chn=ps&dispItem=1

 

[mopar 3 B]

Race only covers constant loads, vital engine functions. Not fluctuating loads from lights, heater fans and the likes of ac units.

 

[66Satellite47]

The Mopar "race" version is more like a constant 14.8-15 V. Seems like harder on the battery, over-cooking it. Shouldn't be a problem except for longer trips.

 

[451Mopar]

The Mopar "race" version is more like a constant 14.8-15 V. Seems like harder on the battery, over-cooking it. Shouldn't be a problem except for longer trips.

From the 1993 Mopar Performance catalog.
The earlier catalogs I have (1980 & 1989) don't list the regulated voltage. The later catalogs do, at 13.5 which I recall being what my old '68 truck was seeing with that regulator, but I sold the truck 20-years ago.

 

[6290988]

I read an article that said the “race only” constant voltage regulators are good to use with electronic ignition. The stock ones have a greater chance to hurting the electronic ignition. Any truth to that.

 

[451Mopar]

The stock mechanical ones create a bunch of voltage swings because it really is a relay turning on/off to provide power to the alternator field windings. The electronic regulators should have more linear control of the field winding resulting in smaller voltage swings.
I am not sure the regulator would damage the electronic ignition as it has its own internal voltage regulator, but the voltage swings might affect the ignition trigger signal on the stock style ECU boxes. I doubt it would make any difference to a MSD box.

 

[6290988]

The stock mechanical ones create a bunch of voltage swings because it really is a relay turning on/off to provide power to the alternator field windings. The electronic regulators should have more linear control of the field winding resulting in smaller voltage swings.
I am not sure the regulator would damage the electronic ignition as it has its own internal voltage regulator, but the voltage swings might affect the ignition trigger signal on the stock style ECU boxes. I doubt it would make any difference to a MSD box.

I have a mopar electronic ignition

 

[451Mopar]

I used the E-bay electronic regulator on my 69 Coronet and did not have any issues, but it also had a HI-6 ignition.
I think it would work for you, and they are inexpensive.
If you read through the threads, you will notice that the Mopar Electronic Ignition ECU has its own set of issues. If they are install and grounded correctly normally no problem, but questionable connections, grounding and pickup gap can create issues with that setup.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I read an article that said the “race only” constant voltage regulators are good to use with electronic ignition. The stock ones have a greater chance to hurting the electronic ignition. Any truth to that.

Have not had the issue with different voltages hurting the ecu

 

[66Satellite47]

I have a "race" style regulator P3690732 for early style alternator. My alternator is a two field, modified to a one wire early style. Mine puts out more than the advertised 13.5 V, like above 14.5 V. Works fine. The true OE style regulator was grounded through the regulator case to the body. In 1971 I fought the grounding issue for 1 1/2 years. The dealer didn't understand the ground issue & need. A separate ground wire from the regulator case to a sanded paint free body connection point cured the problem for good.

 

[6290988]

Those were supposed to be a constant voltage regulator, did not compensate voltage for temperature. Never was a problem, I think they regulate at about 13.5 volts?
Might be an issue in cold winter weather when the regulators normally put out around 14 volts or so?
There is an electronic replacement regulator that looks like the stock units that works good too.
Like this:
https://www.ebay.com/i/201249070790?chn=ps&dispItem=1

With that unit I see diagrams and other people have two wires going to the ign post and one to the field. I only have two wires total.

 

[451Mopar]

A bad ground could cause the regulator to regulate to a higher voltage.
It will regulate the voltage to what is between the IGN terminal and the regulator case. Resistance or voltage drop on either side (IGN circuit or Ground) can result in the alternator outputing a higher voltage when measured at the alternator output wiring to engine block or alternator case.
Not sure about more than one wire at the IGN terminal. It only needs one, but it would be an easy connection point to get IGN power for other items like the Ignition ECU power or electric choke power.

 

[66Satellite47]

My experience with a bad ground for voltage regulator resulted in NO output from the alternator.

 

[Glenwood]

I had a bad VR on a dodge van that spiked the voltage, cooking the battery and basically blew every light in the system. Figured it fused inside and sent full voltage to the alt field. A bad ground can cause voltage to become erratic on some devices.