1958 Dodge Coronet
- Thread starter matthon
- Start date
Well ya know what they say if you can't do it right the first time; try to eff it up again next time...
tonysrt
Well-Known Member
Now that we have the technology to do research we have learned a lot of new things. I'm always open to learning things that we have lived through, even though we didn't have all the facts. So now I know Dodge was putting Plymouths 350 in their cars.
matthon
Well-Known Member
I picked up an old set of 4 Cragars that have been sitting on top of each other for a very long time. Covered in dirt, but in good shape.
One has pinstripes on it, different for each spoke. I can't bring myself to clean it yet as it will lose some of the paint.
Plan is to run them as-is, but thinking of either striping the others to match, or picking one spoke and doing all the same.
What say you?
One has pinstripes on it, different for each spoke. I can't bring myself to clean it yet as it will lose some of the paint.
Plan is to run them as-is, but thinking of either striping the others to match, or picking one spoke and doing all the same.
What say you?
Basket case
Well-Known Member
clean the otter parts for sure, then gently try to clean the centers and clear them.
matthon
Well-Known Member
I actually got both Lancer emblems within 1 week for reasonable prices.
Emblems are two pieces, the knight is supposed to face forward on both sides, so technically there is a left and right emblem.
I didn't care, just was hoping to find two, got extremely lucky.
These are 16+ inches long.
Not perfect, but have you seen the car?
Emblems are two pieces, the knight is supposed to face forward on both sides, so technically there is a left and right emblem.
I didn't care, just was hoping to find two, got extremely lucky.
These are 16+ inches long.
Not perfect, but have you seen the car?
Nice, not the kind of parts I'd think are an easy find.
matthon
Well-Known Member
I took the most horrible video ever of the 57, tires, wood, junk all around, no room to turn around, couldn't touch car.
It was so hot, my phone overheated and shut down the camera, and that's were taking pics or video ends.
345 DeSoto hemi.
I couldn't see under the car, or even get close to look, so I shoved my phone under it.
Looked at the video when I got home, holy moly, look at that frame and those floors!
It was so hot, my phone overheated and shut down the camera, and that's were taking pics or video ends.
345 DeSoto hemi.
I couldn't see under the car, or even get close to look, so I shoved my phone under it.
Looked at the video when I got home, holy moly, look at that frame and those floors!
matthon
Well-Known Member
The Coronet is ready to run.
Surprised that the starter and the fuel pump work. I bought a small block mopar pump with an adapter, but didn't need it.
I filed the points and got a weak spark, then noticed the negative coil wire was wasted. Replaced and it sparks like crazy.
All the fluids are clean and full.
After a few cranks, before I had spark, no oil up to the valvetrain.
I should have attempted to prime it before I had the manifold back on, but I'm not even sure my big block priming rod will fit.
I'm not even sure the dizzy will come up and out without removing the heater above it.
My understanding is the 325 poly is a solid lifter, so how does oil get to the valvetrain?
Crank it until it runs and make sure oil comes up? Too risky?
Surprised that the starter and the fuel pump work. I bought a small block mopar pump with an adapter, but didn't need it.
I filed the points and got a weak spark, then noticed the negative coil wire was wasted. Replaced and it sparks like crazy.
All the fluids are clean and full.
After a few cranks, before I had spark, no oil up to the valvetrain.
I should have attempted to prime it before I had the manifold back on, but I'm not even sure my big block priming rod will fit.
I'm not even sure the dizzy will come up and out without removing the heater above it.
My understanding is the 325 poly is a solid lifter, so how does oil get to the valvetrain?
Crank it until it runs and make sure oil comes up? Too risky?
matthon
Well-Known Member
I could not get the distributor to budge one bit, not up, not left, not right.
Cleaned up all around it, sprayed it with penetrating stuff and let it sit overnight.
Today, still wouldn't budge, pry bar, nothing.
Put the plugs in it, battery, and after a few attempts it fired up!
I brought up the rpms a few times, hoping to get some oil moving, but shut it down quickly.
Valve cover was off, no oil up top.
Tried to get the distributor off again and it popped right off.
Pulled the cam gear, used a big extendable magnet, had to work it up and down to break the suction of some sludge, I think.
I had to make a primer rod as the one I have did not fit the oil pump.
Electric drill on it forever, began to see a trickle of oil dripping off the ends at the green arrows, and eventually coming out of the holes at the red arrows dripping down onto the lower springs.
No oil on the upper springs, or coming out of the upper shaft holes, blue arrow.
I noticed oil pooling above the oil pump hole at the rear of the cam, the hole the priming rod was going through to the oil pump.
I tried turning the crank and priming but no change. I'm thinking there should be more oil coming through the shaft, and ideally flowing down the springs, upper and lower.
I don't know the path the oil takes, but I'm thinking I'll pull the oil filter, big can filter, and replace it as I found a new one in the trunk. Then prime it again.
If that fails, I'll pull the intake, the valley pan, both valve covers, and oil everything.
Then start it and see if some heat will get it flowing.
Car sat for 32 years, guy never did anything to it, never tried to start it.
The oil in it is clean, not black at all.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Cleaned up all around it, sprayed it with penetrating stuff and let it sit overnight.
Today, still wouldn't budge, pry bar, nothing.
Put the plugs in it, battery, and after a few attempts it fired up!
I brought up the rpms a few times, hoping to get some oil moving, but shut it down quickly.
Valve cover was off, no oil up top.
Tried to get the distributor off again and it popped right off.
Pulled the cam gear, used a big extendable magnet, had to work it up and down to break the suction of some sludge, I think.
I had to make a primer rod as the one I have did not fit the oil pump.
Electric drill on it forever, began to see a trickle of oil dripping off the ends at the green arrows, and eventually coming out of the holes at the red arrows dripping down onto the lower springs.
No oil on the upper springs, or coming out of the upper shaft holes, blue arrow.
I noticed oil pooling above the oil pump hole at the rear of the cam, the hole the priming rod was going through to the oil pump.
I tried turning the crank and priming but no change. I'm thinking there should be more oil coming through the shaft, and ideally flowing down the springs, upper and lower.
I don't know the path the oil takes, but I'm thinking I'll pull the oil filter, big can filter, and replace it as I found a new one in the trunk. Then prime it again.
If that fails, I'll pull the intake, the valley pan, both valve covers, and oil everything.
Then start it and see if some heat will get it flowing.
Car sat for 32 years, guy never did anything to it, never tried to start it.
The oil in it is clean, not black at all.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
pwDave
Well-Known Member
I had a 350 dodge truck, push buttons on the left side of the dash. was kinda skechy at first buying parts for it because I thought it was a 361. most parts the same but a few different. Dave
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Oil will look clean after sitting for a long period. Might add a half quart of Rislone to loosen and clean out the sludge.
Those were cool - I've seen one in the flesh...or steel in the last decade. Not sure how many years Dodge had those in trucks.
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