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1966 Charger cranks but won't fire.

Open the distributor cap. Take a pic of the points. Let’s see if maybe their burnt.
 
I can do that.

I also have spare voltage regulators, ballast, and coil. Though I would be surprised if the coil failed this quickly.
 
Sometimes stuff like that just happens. Year ago I had a 78 cordoba. Drove into the driveway and shut off the car. Went an hour later t start and no go. The coil had failed. New coil and I was good to go. It’s strange to fail like that but it does happen
 
I am optimistic that since I'm getting such low voltage and no spark, that this should be a fairly simple fix though... Was worried about engine or fuel issues.

Will head back out soon to get that info.
 
Just for shits and giggles. Try taking a jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the + on the coil and crank under the hood. You don’t need to have the key on for this. Leave the coil wire like you were testing it earlier today. Do you have spark then?
Maybe we have a an issue of too much voltage drop when cranking. It’s a quick test to see.
 
4v on left of ballast, two wire side. 10v on right of ballast. I’m not getting any ohm reading on the coil. Not sure if my multimeter is set wrong.

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You have the wires off the coil? Then hook to + and - ? The reading your getting is open circuit. If you testing correctly your coil has failed
 
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Need a close up picture of the points too. Let look there and make sure we have no issues once we get a coil that reads correctly
 
This is tested with everything (hopefully) hooked up the way the wiring diagram says. I will have to make a jumper wire.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
Ok... I reseated the dizzy. Now neg of coil reads 12ish volts cranking and key in run. Pos reads 5.5ish volts. Both read .5 ohms.
 
This is frustrating as all hell lol. Idk if my multimeter is shot but I get different readings consistently.
 
Sorry I meant at ballast resistor 12v goes coil when cranking to start, key in run position is lower voltage.
 
When checking resistance (ohms) the device you are checking needs to be isolated. To check the resistance or continuity of the coil you must disconnect the wires from both the postive and negative terminals of the coil.
 
Tried new coil, ballast, and voltage regulator. Still inconsistent and low voltage readings...

Tried with another test light to verify readings, my multimeter is working properly.
 
When checking resistance (ohms) the device you are checking needs to be isolated. To check the resistance or continuity of the coil you must disconnect the wires from both the postive and negative terminals of the coil.
Ah okay. I'll try this.
 
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