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1966 Dodge Coronet 727 Transmission

PTC has 19 splines available. I ordered mine through John Cope. Very reasonable price too.


I meant 1 hour to pull and 1 hour to install, so 2 hours. So ignoring the r&r labor, the shop is charging $1150 for a stock rebuild on a 727 which is way too much.
Where are you at? Next time ill pull and ship to you...
 
"Easy to rebuild yourself" Your assuming I have a lift and garage and all the tools.. $500 is high but that's the counts towards the total.. (I think its to keep looklou cheapskates from their shop) Also the parts are all latest OE with the exception of the extra shift kit. And this is a total rebuild every single thing that can be replaced is being replaced. Including chemical bath for the trans case.

What is "everything?" Do you know what needs replaced at the moment? Are you getting billet servos, new drums, pump? Quite a bit of the hardparts will not need replaced. If they are doing every bushing I can see a little higher price. I have rebuilt a few and never had a lift so it is not necesary but nice to have available. The tools are not that special...spring compressor for the servos, clutch assembly, bushing puller, feeler gauges, bushing driver. If you like the shop and feel they are worth it then spend the cash. You asked "how hosed am I" in your original post so I gave my opinion.
 
The two transmission shops I have done business with charge $120 hour labor here in Tucson.

I don't think the $1650 is outrageous.
My feeling is yeah its a little high but this isent your cousins garage..
 
What is "everything?" Do you know what needs replaced at the moment? Are you getting billet servos, new drums, pump? Quite a bit of the hardparts will not need replaced. If they are doing every bushing I can see a little higher price. I have rebuilt a few and never had a lift so it is not necesary but nice to have available. The tools are not that special...spring compressor for the servos, clutch assembly, bushing puller, feeler gauges, bushing driver. If you like the shop and feel they are worth it then spend the cash. You asked "how hosed am I" in your original post so I gave my opinion.
And we all know about opinions ! lol, pump is not changed out. but yes every bushing. I actually had 3 quotes another place that's kinda eh.. was 1200, another more reputable place was also 1500 ..
 
And we all know about opinions ! lol, pump is not changed out. but yes every bushing. I actually had 3 quotes another place that's kinda eh.. was 1200, another more reputable place was also 1500 ..

Seriously. Before you spend the money there, look at the link here...
http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/727-Big-Block-Street-Performance-(1966-Up)__22000B.aspx
A&A are a very well known and trusted builder, and for $1295 plus freight for one already rebuilt it is a bargain. I don't trust a whole lot of places for transmissions, A&A and Cope's are the best. And you know exactly what you are getting. People get burned all the time from listening to the sales pitch from shops.
 
One thing you could do is score a 440 core so you would have the HD hard parts available, more pinions, more clutches, etc
and you get the late input shaft
cheers
 
Shop supplies include beer, right? If so.......no :)

I hear that! I have done some for friends just to show them what is involved. They usually give me around $200 even if I don't ask for it.
Helps pay for the parts washer solvent and shop towels. One guy in the military bought a '66 or '67 Coronet, and that trans was a mess.
Had a cheap bolt in sprag and the PO tried bolting it in with the 1/4"x20 bolts unsted of the correct 1/4"X28, and broke off three of the four bolts in the sprag. The PO also tried installing a cheap plate type shift kit, so the valve body has two plates, the stock one and the shift kit one. :screwy: Also, no kickdown on the trans.
After fixing all that and rebuilding the trans, I also made him a deal on my old 10" Dynamic converter and Lokar Kickdoen kit that I happen to have laying around because I went to a Cope MRVB and Ultimate 9" converter.
 
I don't think it's outrageous. Can it be done cheaper - definately. In other locales - definitely. But I don't think that's unreasonable for my neck of the woods. I think the last one I quoted without install or convertor was all of $1200 for a race-quality build.
 
What is "everything?" Do you know what needs replaced at the moment? Are you getting billet servos, new drums, pump? Quite a bit of the hardparts will not need replaced. If they are doing every bushing I can see a little higher price. I have rebuilt a few and never had a lift so it is not necesary but nice to have available. The tools are not that special...spring compressor for the servos, clutch assembly, bushing puller, feeler gauges, bushing driver. If you like the shop and feel they are worth it then spend the cash. You asked "how hosed am I" in your original post so I gave my opinion.

These are good comments. Sounds sort of high to me but this is a 52 year old transmission and if they broke it down and looked at all the hard parts closely and identified some that need replacement or repair - scored pump, a rough planetary, a scored drum, cracked valve body, etc that could be adding considerably to the parts price. A quality torque converter is several hundred dollars alone. I would agree that $180/hr sounds pretty enriching.

I rebuilt my 727 last winter successfully so it is even possible to do this yourself as a novice without enormous issue. Takes some research and close examination to identify if any hard parts are worn beyond serviceable condition. I had a converter with worn hub, whining planetary with worn case back, a pretty badly scored accumulator bore that I sleeved and scored pump impeller. Installed a TF-1 shift kit also. All good - except blasted converter leak down persisted - but no leaks and shifts good.
 
When I rebuilt my 727, and doing the parts hunting game, ran into a few eye-openers. Going into a couple 'trans' shops, one told me they don't mess with those old pieces of crap! Another shop...the guys in there did NOT know what a 727 was.

Chose wisely. Another one man shop did know 727s...and kept all the good parts...for himself!
 
I hear that! I have done some for friends just to show them what is involved. They usually give me around $200 even if I don't ask for it.
Helps pay for the parts washer solvent and shop towels. One guy in the military bought a '66 or '67 Coronet, and that trans was a mess.
Had a cheap bolt in sprag and the PO tried bolting it in with the 1/4"x20 bolts unsted of the correct 1/4"X28, and broke off three of the four bolts in the sprag. The PO also tried installing a cheap plate type shift kit, so the valve body has two plates, the stock one and the shift kit one. :screwy: Also, no kickdown on the trans.
After fixing all that and rebuilding the trans, I also made him a deal on my old 10" Dynamic converter and Lokar Kickdoen kit that I happen to have laying around because I went to a Cope MRVB and Ultimate 9" converter.

It really is fun to do, I like tearing them down and building them back up. They really are pretty simple, just follow the clearance specs and re-assemble the opposite of tear down. I haven't done one that was previously messed with though.
 
Hi all you 727 experts. Can anyone tell me if the tranny pan gasket is the same for both 727A and 727B transmissions. Looking to go "rubber" but the summit web site doesn't differentiate between the two - makes me think they're the same. This is on a '66 Net 318 poly/727. Thanks!
 
is cable shift different you cable or rods?
do you have rear pump? if so you have to run a screen "filter" with a hole punched in it
otherwise I think they are the same
 
is cable shift different you cable or rods?
do you have rear pump? if so you have to run a screen "filter" with a hole punched in it
otherwise I think they are the same
Mine is a console shifter so I think it's connected by rods. Changed the filter last fall & don't remember a hole punched in it.

Thanks.
 
your 66 must be late enough to not be cable shift
I do not recall A and B
I think you are good to go
adjust the band while you have the pan off
 
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