Nicely done with the strut mounting.
1967 Belvedere II Build
- Thread starter ardentind
- Start date
r4sedan
Well-Known Member
Very nice Resto. You do wonderful fabrication, the welds are spot on.
ardentind
Well-Known Member
I’ve done 12 spray outs, trying to get what I see online as GA4 Winchester Grey from 71-72.
I kept getting very green looking colors. Eventually I had DD1 mixed from ‘68, a blue color. I mixed many variations on the kitchen counter and finally ended up with a color I like. It’s a mix of a grey that was supposedly Winchester Grey, it has some DD1 blue in it, and it has a tiny bit of the Winchester Grey by RM Diamont.
It’s the middle spray out in this line up. It may not be an accurate Winchester Grey but I like it. Spray out got sent to Chads Paint supply in MI to be matched in Motobase BC/CC. Exciting to have a color decision made!!
Black vinyl top and black steel wheels with hubcaps.
I kept getting very green looking colors. Eventually I had DD1 mixed from ‘68, a blue color. I mixed many variations on the kitchen counter and finally ended up with a color I like. It’s a mix of a grey that was supposedly Winchester Grey, it has some DD1 blue in it, and it has a tiny bit of the Winchester Grey by RM Diamont.
It’s the middle spray out in this line up. It may not be an accurate Winchester Grey but I like it. Spray out got sent to Chads Paint supply in MI to be matched in Motobase BC/CC. Exciting to have a color decision made!!
Black vinyl top and black steel wheels with hubcaps.
Pedalpusher
Well-Known Member
I like the way you think.
Diewilde13
Active Member
Wow, just found this thread.
Amazing welding skills!!! Great work!
I like the more green Color on the top right Picture
Amazing welding skills!!! Great work!
I like the more green Color on the top right Picture
BB BELLA
Well-Known Member
me , pearl white with flat black hood and roof!
Great quality build, hows the rear bumper chrome, even though Bella was a survivor and no rust the rear bumper was less than show quality! the front is mint, strange how the rear is worse when it doesn't see near the road debris! car only has 14,000 miles!
Great quality build, hows the rear bumper chrome, even though Bella was a survivor and no rust the rear bumper was less than show quality! the front is mint, strange how the rear is worse when it doesn't see near the road debris! car only has 14,000 miles!
ardentind
Well-Known Member
Not a bunch of progress to show. Have the unibody in 2K primer. It’ll sit for a bit while I work on other things. Feels good to be past the epoxy primer as the 7 day window makes things a bit hectic when you can’t work on it daily.
Also, I saw that 4-speed cars had a clutch pivot bracket on the driver frame rail. I ordered one from Brewers and did my best to locate it, using all the talk and pics I could find on this forum.
Also, I saw that 4-speed cars had a clutch pivot bracket on the driver frame rail. I ordered one from Brewers and did my best to locate it, using all the talk and pics I could find on this forum.
ardentind
Well-Known Member
Confirmed the gas struts are enough to support the trunk lid. It doesn’t fly up when unlatched but it will support itself without issue. Very light pressure to lift it up.
Once it gets about halfway up it will begin to lift itself without assistance.
No rear panel trim or lights in these pics, I understand but….
Overall, I’m happy with how it turned out.
Once it gets about halfway up it will begin to lift itself without assistance.
No rear panel trim or lights in these pics, I understand but….
Overall, I’m happy with how it turned out.
I like how you did those.
ardentind
Well-Known Member
For anyone following and interested in the gas struts on the trunk lid, I ended up moving the tabs on the trunk hinge arms to get a little more leverage. I also ordered a pair of 140# gas struts. It now pops up and pushes itself all the way up without assistance. It’s not quite as quick/dramatic as the original torsion rods (which would take your chin off), which I think I like. I can always go back to the other struts if desired.
Gap are not perfect but close. One thing I noticed is the push on the”nut” on the driver side works its way off after a few cycles. I need the hinge arm to stay fully on the pivot “stud” but something keeps pushing it off and to the point where the retaining nut pops off.
I can fairly easy push the trunk lid back the other way, where it needs to be, but a few cycles and it works its way off.
When I disassembled the car I noticed there was no retaining nut on this passenger side…makes me think it’s always been an issue.
Thought about drilling and tapping the end of the pivot stud so I can fasten a large OD washer to the end, keeping the hinge arm on the pin completely. This would eliminate the push on nuts.
Anyone else experienced this issue?
Gap are not perfect but close. One thing I noticed is the push on the”nut” on the driver side works its way off after a few cycles. I need the hinge arm to stay fully on the pivot “stud” but something keeps pushing it off and to the point where the retaining nut pops off.
I can fairly easy push the trunk lid back the other way, where it needs to be, but a few cycles and it works its way off.
When I disassembled the car I noticed there was no retaining nut on this passenger side…makes me think it’s always been an issue.
Thought about drilling and tapping the end of the pivot stud so I can fasten a large OD washer to the end, keeping the hinge arm on the pin completely. This would eliminate the push on nuts.
Anyone else experienced this issue?
ardentind
Well-Known Member
Also, after putting all the work into cutting the hole in the hood, welding in the new support around the cutout, spraying epoxy primer, etc…I ended up ruining the hood trying to be a metal shaping guy when I am not…whoops.
Found another hood fairly local. Not perfect but I’ve got the dings and dents pretty much gone completely. This time around I am going to cut at least a 18” diameter hole. RO23 scoop will cover it easily and that will prevent a “wish I would’ve moved the cutout 1/2”, if it doesn’t fit over the air filter as intended.
On this hood I decided to split the inner and out structures. Glad I did…I would’ve never stopped getting dirt and debris falling out of the hood. Allows for rust removal, epoxy primer everywhere, and easier to get to the backside of the couple dents in the outer skin.
Yep, it’s a ‘66 hood…debating on trying to mimic all the original holes in the inner structure or not. More likely, I’ll add my own pattern of holes in areas before reassembling.
Found another hood fairly local. Not perfect but I’ve got the dings and dents pretty much gone completely. This time around I am going to cut at least a 18” diameter hole. RO23 scoop will cover it easily and that will prevent a “wish I would’ve moved the cutout 1/2”, if it doesn’t fit over the air filter as intended.
On this hood I decided to split the inner and out structures. Glad I did…I would’ve never stopped getting dirt and debris falling out of the hood. Allows for rust removal, epoxy primer everywhere, and easier to get to the backside of the couple dents in the outer skin.
Yep, it’s a ‘66 hood…debating on trying to mimic all the original holes in the inner structure or not. More likely, I’ll add my own pattern of holes in areas before reassembling.
Diewilde13
Active Member
Nice work!
Damn critters will get in anywhere and everywhere.
ardentind
Well-Known Member
Fitted the doors last night. Sort of been putting it off because of the issues I’ve dealt with on the trunk lid. I know everyone says Chrysler products weren’t great in terms of door gaps so that added to my avoidant tendencies.
I was pleasantly surprised. Put these on by myself with about 15-20 min of adjustment into each one. They are nowhere near perfect but much better than I assumed they would be. I had looked at old pics and knew the door gaps had to have been close otherwise I would’ve noticed them before disassembly.
Overall, I think I’ll mark the hinge location with a few center punch taps and remove them and get the engine bay and jambs ready to get color applied. That should be exciting!
I was pleasantly surprised. Put these on by myself with about 15-20 min of adjustment into each one. They are nowhere near perfect but much better than I assumed they would be. I had looked at old pics and knew the door gaps had to have been close otherwise I would’ve noticed them before disassembly.
Overall, I think I’ll mark the hinge location with a few center punch taps and remove them and get the engine bay and jambs ready to get color applied. That should be exciting!
Looking good.
Maybe the everyone's you know, are poor body men and panel fitters. GM guys perhaps?
This really hits home for me.
I have several tools that were my fathers in my shop and every time I grab one and use it there are lots of emotions. Memories going back as far as I can remember tied to those tools being used by him. Some days it's motivation and other days I have to stop but they are cherished.
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I missed this one...... Holy Crap! 
ardentind
Well-Known Member
Amen!
I’ve got his whole tool box now. I’ll restore it once the Belv is done.
I have a claw hammer that I remember being around as I grew up, doing countless home improvement projects. Used it the other day to tap in the hinge pins of the doors actually…
Assembled the drum brakes for the Belv using all of his brake tools. Super special!!
I grew up a kid who was always using tools. Had good mentors, my dad one of them. Wipe off tools, put them back in the correct spot, etc. I spent hours and hours and hours using his tools growing up. We were always working on cars or home projects. After 15 years of being away from his toolbox, I still was able to walk up and know exactly what drawer things were in.
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66 Cornpicker
Well-Known Member
Excellent job ! What stuff are you using when you re attach the deck lid structure to the skin ? Was the original stuff rock hard or still pliable ?
ardentind
Well-Known Member
3M 04274 NVH flexible dampening material. Original stuff was a rock. Sand blaster even mentioned that it doesn’t come off with the blaster. I’ll scrap it and grind whatever is left afterwards.
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