1967 Charger - Front Chrome Fender "C" Molding hardware needed

[Dean Prevolos]

I bought a new pair of C moldings for my 67 Charger from Year One. Year One advertisement stated that they don't provide the hardware. There are machined studs that screw into the C molding and you secure with a nut. I want to know if there is a source for the 8/32" threaded post that is inserted onto the C cmolding to accept the nut.

I can screw a 8/32" machine screw into the molding( see attached photo) . I was thinking of cutting off the head and see if I can install a nut onto the threads. Or if anyone has attached with a different method, I am all ears. Thanks in advance, Dean.

 

[Don Frelier]

Take a look at McMaster Carr

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Thank you Don

 

[R413]

I like the idea of cutting off a screw, that way it is plated and won't rust. Those black set screws are usually bare, and do they make them long enough?

Put a nut on it before cutting, then file and clean up the cut end and remove the nut so the threads will be clean and accept a nut upon install.

 

[RemCharger]

Another trick is to jb weld them in,( maybe loctite) so you don't drive the stud out into the chrome.
Yes it happens, and you can't undo it.

 

[Don Frelier]

I like the idea of cutting off a screw, that way it is plated and won't rust. Those black set screws are usually bare, and do they make them long enough?

Put a nut on it before cutting, then file and clean up the cut end and remove the nut so the threads will be clean and accept a nut upon install.

You could certainly use something like a stainless screw instead.
I would clean up the cut end and thread that end into the housing leaving the factory end for a new nut.

But they are phosphatized and yes you can get them in different lengths.
And I don't see his car getting run in the winter road salt a whole bunch.
I would probably just put Red Loctite on the studs.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

All good points. My original idea to use a stainless screw, screw into the molding for fit, cut off the head and get the nut in place, then remove and re-install and see how well it holds before I reinstall the thread with loctite. I also was thinking I could install the screw on with loctite to a tight fit, cut off the head, file and add the nut. But if I have a problem with my cutting off the head and getting the nut on, then I am against the clock with the loctite in place.

I am going to call McMaster Carr and ask if they have a slightly longer set screw. It did seem short to me and if you ever have tried to put the nut on one of these studs, you know how difficult it can be. If it is just long enough for a long socket to apply the nut, I would feel better. And to Don's point, I am in Florida and rust is not an issue for now. I let you all know how it turns out, thanks for all your ideas, much appreciated. I just measured the depth of the thread into the molding and it is 3/16", so that would only leave 1/4" post to place the nut onto.

 

[Don Frelier]

You can get a longer stud. That was just a quick wag to show you the type.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Yes Don, I was just getting ready to call them. Thanks

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Just spoke with them and they have 5/8" long , Part# 94105A316 (Pack of 50 for $10.85) or the stainless screw is #94355A198(pack of 25) for $6.82.

So once installed into the molding, I should have 7/16" remaining on the stud to accept the nut. So I will probably go with the stainless part. I only need 6 screws so I guess I will add the rest to my collection. I'll report on how it goes. It is better than cutting and filing down the screw and fitting a nut.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Just ordered the screws and the nuts in stainless .

 

[Don Frelier]

I just replaced mine last year (after 30 + years)
New front bumper as well.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Looks nice, I had my bumpers re-chromed last year and will be reinstalling soon.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

I have received the 8/32 set screws and 8/32 hex nuts in stainless and installed on C molding. See photos.