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1968 Charger the start

Iucgroup

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Location
Green Bay
I bought a basket case but looks all original non molested A11 Blue interior anyway first thing, is to figure out if this is the correct block.
SO number A20-064570
Sequential 176033 matches vin and fender code
Vin XP29G8B

060EFD5B-71BD-4D5E-91A8-8C00788375B6.jpeg 5E870B72-B5FD-4034-ACD7-2378B2F70796.jpeg 025B4F54-02C0-456E-9DF7-024389EE882B.jpeg 7B2D4504-9B08-4F85-80C2-0D1410C909B3.jpeg BE3E36F6-E30C-42E4-9433-27D7CCA80E30.jpeg 4FA8E7B2-64FE-49FF-80E6-0C721B35CFB2.jpeg A84BF6A3-C17D-476D-B81E-AB8E6D786394.jpeg B72C9FD0-31B5-4D64-BC69-95D6508682C4.jpeg
 
Motor assembled Oct5 67 confirmed by the 2260 on bottom. R means 290 horse. Build date of Car Oct 20. Looks perfect!
 
064570 should only match the trunk lip and sometimes the radiator support, not the vin
 
WTG on the 68. Looking forward to your updates!
 
064570 should only match the trunk lip and sometimes the radiator support, not the vin
Thanks for the correction greatly appreciated where on the lip and the radiator support would I see that number
 
No mice or rats This diamond in the rough was in the original owners garage since 1977 just like you see it
 
I’ve been asked a few times to do this car Justice with body work and a paint job. But I don’t see the point it’s perfect like a Picasso. Don’t get me wrong all mechanical will be done to factory specifications but I’m using as much as possible all theses original parts to do it. Am I wrong?

437A5882-FF61-4E74-B096-479D32457EF1.jpeg F137D2CE-4471-4CF5-91B3-89BE5081ED7A.jpeg 7C33B048-45C4-4A42-9572-A85512ADBAB8.jpeg 105514D9-4F12-4A55-8E14-9C181E337148.jpeg 4C7E0E0C-FE73-4B77-BBC6-12BC8996A65B.jpeg B807B805-D095-4230-85A0-4D3A7EE30D01.jpeg
 
No need to spend a bunch of money on body work and paint...looks decent enough as it sits. I'd patch and replace what needs doing rust wise and then just get some paint matched up to the current faded OEM colour and then just spray what needs spraying. Get the car operational and safe for the road and start enjoying it....you can always get to body work and paint at a later date.
 
Agreed that’s what I was thinking, Do all the heavy maintenance cleanup, do the rust, minimum painting to preserve the car and that’s it, sorry no 440 upgrade no choppy choppy (No roadkill) I know it’s a plane Jane but I feel fortunate to have it.

So, why not put it as it was when taken out of service in 1977 less rust, dirt and grim.
That’s what my post will cover, I have a feeling it will be more interesting for everyone to help figure out if the parts I have are all correct and how and if it should be to put back on the car or to paint and what to leave as is.
By the way I have all of original documents, bill of sale, build sheet dealer order form and so on All of it in mint condition. So far it’s a matching numbers engine. Next is the trans, driveline and rear diff to check.
This Charger was a special order from the Dealer who sold it to the original buyer. Correct one owner car…….Loving this project
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Nice looking project. My favorite second generation Charger, actually, it is probably my favorite Mopar model of all. It doesn't look to bad at all to me. Can't believe it is a WI car, even the rear window lower corners look good.
 
Yes couldn’t believe it when I first saw it’s condition. When you wipe the seat it’s brand new under the dirt The owner was smart it was in his garage that was part of his home NOT the BARN!!! So no animals got in plus even though he took it apart he keep the windows closed for 45 years!!!! and all the parts piled in it.
 
A car can be restored a 1000 times, but its only original once, and I have enjoyed seeing some truly immaculate restored cars. But, seeing survivors , bumps, bruises , and blemishes all, are my personal favs. We all like what we like, and its good to have choices, so , remod, refurbish to YOUR taste, we like em all.......a great find for sure, and many here are envious of your good fortune, including me.........best wishes...
 
A car can be restored a 1000 times, but its only original once, and I have enjoyed seeing some truly immaculate restored cars. But, seeing survivors , bumps, bruises , and blemishes all, are my personal favs. We all like what we like, and its good to have choices, so , remod, refurbish to YOUR taste, we like em all.......a great find for sure, and many here are envious of your good fortune, including me.........best wishes...
Thank you, my apologies don’t mean to be bragging not my style just feeling very fortunate and humble to be given the opportunity to keep and put an original survivor back on the road for All to enjoy My posting is for feedback on my progress and welcome all critical comments ……….I’m not a snowflake
 
For the serial number stamping, you need to look on the back of the engine, on the rough cast portion of the bellhousing rail. When the trans is bolted to the engine, they stamped the vin on the trans bell rail and the engine in the same place. Not all 68s were like this, but it's worth looking for. My 68 hemi road runner was stamped like this, it looked like the person doing the stamping would stamp the block then the trans, then pick up the next stamp and hit both again. I'd like to know if they did that on yours.
Just run the round part of the back of the block and look closely for stampings, starting above the starter and going all the way around. Good luck.
 
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