1968 Plymouth GTX

['68 Coronet R/T]

Looking at the block pad, I see the following:
F 440 which indicates a 1970 motor.
11 17 which I am assuming is the month and day of the build??
Then there is the sideways "C" which I cannot find on my block decoding sheet. Anyone know what that means?
Also following the 11 17 there is a space and then 2- (see second picture) which I have no idea what it represents.

 

[dadsbee]

The only thing better I could see on the engine is if the VIN pad said 0A170163 on the side of it and I'd be at your house tomorrow....

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

The only thing better I could see on the engine is if the VIN pad said 0A170163 on the side of it and I'd be at your house tomorrow....

I can't really make out what is after the 0, maybe a D or n? 160909
I cleaned it up and tried to take a better picture but it's hard to get the right angle where all the letters and numbers look complete.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Here are the connecting rod numbers:

From what I can find online, they seem to be high quality replacements. Anyone familiar with them?

 

[gtx6970]

Looking at the block pad, I see the following:
F 440 which indicates a 1970 motor.
11 17 which I am assuming is the month and day of the build??
Then there is the sideways "C" which I cannot find on my block decoding sheet. Anyone know what that means?
Also following the 11 17 there is a space and then 2- (see second picture) which I have no idea what it represents.

View attachment 1821118
View attachment 1821120

F440 is 1970 model year application

11 17 is assy date Nov 17th 1969

2 is 2nd shift

C - I've no idea

Lack of the HP stamp tells me it's probably out of a C body

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

F440 is 1970 model year application

11 17 is assy date Nov 17th 1969

2 is 2nd shift

C - I've no idea

Lack of the HP stamp tells me it's probably out of a C body

Thanks. I'm taking it to a local guy who worked on my signature car's motor tomorrow for an inspection.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Okay, the engine builder agreed it is a stock bore and he believes it should clean up with .030" oversize.

He told me the problem with sending a crankshaft out for work is the shipping cost is about $200. Apparently the combined costs are enough where he recommends buying a new crankshaft if mine is in bad shape.

He will give me his price to obtain the cam bearings, pistons, rings and freeze plugs in a few days, then I can search for a better price if I can find one.

With his current work, it will be some time in May before it will get to work on my block.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

This car's fender tag simply says Light Blue Interior. I have searched lots of pictures and can see most have a Medium blue carpet and then light blue seat covers, door panels, etc. However, I cannot find a picture showing the headliner color. A search online still produced nothing other than an AI response saying the headliner was White.

Anyone know for sure what color the headliner should be for a car with a light blue interior?
This car also came with Blue side stripes, if that makes any difference?

 

[68BabyBlue]

This car's fender tag simply says Light Blue Interior. I have searched lots of pictures and can see most have a Medium blue carpet and then light blue seat covers, door panels, etc. However, I cannot find a picture showing the headliner color. A search online still produced nothing other than an AI response saying the headliner was White.

Anyone know for sure what color the headliner should be for a car with a light blue interior?
This car also came with Blue side stripes, if that makes any difference?

Baby Blue had the original factory interior when I owned the car the first time. Light blue headliner with light blue interior.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Thanks. I was ready to order the light blue perforated headliner but then started having doubts. My searches only added to my doubt list.
Did your car have the medium blue carpet or was that light blue also?

 

[68BabyBlue]

Thanks. I was ready to order the light blue perforated headliner but then started having doubts. My searches only added to my doubt list.
Did your car have the medium blue carpet or was that light blue also?

Can’t say for sure, because the original had been replaced. It was light blue as well, as was the second replacement when I got the car back in 2013. Looked good.

If you are concerned about perfect originality, I’ll contact my friend who sold me the car in 1983.

 

[zyzzyx]

Those scratches look like water stains that have "wicked" into the gap? Is it a forged crank or cast? The pic's
are too close to tell. Measure the journals. could just need polishing.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Those scratches look like water stains that have "wicked" into the gap? Is it a forged crank or cast? The pic's
are too close to tell. Measure the journals. could just need polishing.

I believe it's forged but how can I tell for sure?

 

[zyzzyx]

Here are some pic's:

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Thanks for the pictures. It appears mine is a cast crankshaft.

Should I consider buying a new forged crankshaft? This is a street car but I do want great performance and plan to have the block milled to zero deck and use aluminum closed chambered heads.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

That's a forged crank... Have your machinist measure it, if the numbers look good polish it & run it..

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

That's a forged crank... Have your machinist measure it, if the numbers look good polish it & run it..

I thought it should be but when compared to the pictures it definitely looks like the one labeled a cast crankshaft.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I thought it should be but when compared to the pictures it definitely looks like the one labeled a cast crankshaft.

Your seeing the squared off machined area similar to the cast crank, but if you look closer the whole counter weight on a cast crank is squared off, thats because the mold was fully machined....

The forged crank has squared off edges on the OD of the counterweight but the side is rounded because the forging process basically hammers the steel into the rough shape before machining..

 

[Pistol Pete]

Forged cranks are nice to have, but not an absolute. Talk to you machinist about piston choices though when deciding on the crank as balancing costs can come into play.

More of a problem if you're using heavy stock pistons and a lighter aftermarket crank as Mallory is expensive. I know this is largely opposite of your issue, but it is still something to be aware of.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Some more pictures of my Crankshaft.

I measured the Rod Journals at 2.375" diameter and the Main Journals at 2.750" which seems to be correct stock measurements.