1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

[threewood]

Another upgrade. 60a Denso alternator. It's internally regulated and puts out solid 14.3v at idle in drive. The alternator itself goes in with factory brackets but with spacers to set it back.

Wiring was straight forward. Black wire to starter relay, green wire to ignition +, and blue wire to battery. VR was gutted but retained for a factory look on the firewall.

And I replaced my turn signal switch as one of the cancel arms broke off. It lasted 50 years!

 

[71Beeper]

Kudos to you for getting the coil off of the engine and mounting it the correct way - vertically.
It will last a long longer now.

 

[padam]

Do you have a part number for the denso alternator?

 

[threewood]

Do you have a part number for the denso alternator?

Here are the numbers for the 60a Denso alternators from Rockauto. Or search 1991 Toyota 4Runner w/ 2.4L motor. Denso # is 2100106

 

[69 GTX]

May I ask why the swap? BTW how is the EFI for you?

 

[threewood]

May I ask why the swap? BTW how is the EFI for you?

Alternator swap? Something to do on the car I guess. New technology can be beneficial. VR is internal and there is no drop in charging volts at idle. No more dimming lights.

The EFI is great. Starts easier, seems to run smoother. Besides the fuel pump issue I really haven't run into any problems. Installing it was fun as well. I just like working on cars and EFI was an excuse to tinker around with it.

 

[69 GTX]

So maybe a dry nitrous system might be next? Curious how many HP does that kit support?

 

[threewood]

So maybe a dry nitrous system might be next? Curious how many HP does that kit support?

650 horsepower I think. I'm not going to go with any power adders on this engine. I have KB Hypereutectic pistons and I don't think they would stand the abuse.

 

[69 GTX]

It probably has plenty of giddy up any way.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I spent some time fixing the splash piece between the rail and rocker. The previous owner smashed both sides in (and cut out the inner fenders) to allow clearance for headers to drop behind the front wheels.

And he also installed this sweet pair of subframe connectors. I think I will keep them for nostalgic reasons, plus it looks like a pain in the butt to cut them out. Bonus..... the connectors tied in with the seat brackets and covered the nuts holding the seats on. So I had to cut out a chunk to get to the nuts.
View attachment 348403 View attachment 348404 View attachment 348405

Trial fit of the AMD floor pan. The front bend and flange is fubar. Looks like it was bent by the samsonite gorillas with a rock. Going to take some care (and maybe a hammer) to get it to fit across the firewall. It is sitting flush with the frame in the pic with my finger behind the flange it is that far off.
View attachment 348406 View attachment 348407 View attachment 348408

Late to the party here, but how did you brace the car while the floor was removed? I also need to remove the top and floor pan. Almost looked like there was a brace welded to the trans crossmember.

 

[threewood]

Late to the party here, but how did you brace the car while the floor was removed? I also need to remove the top and floor pan. Almost looked like there was a brace welded to the trans crossmember.

I didn't brace anything when I removed the driver side floor. Probably wouldn't hurt anything. The top shouldn't need a brace if just doing the skin.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I didn't brace anything when I removed the driver side floor. Probably wouldn't hurt anything. The top shouldn't need a brace if just doing the skin.

Also, did you have the rear quarters, and both wheelhouses out at the same time?

 

[threewood]

Also, did you have the rear quarters, and both wheelhouses out at the same time?

One side at a time. I pulled the trunk floor first, then did the driver side wheelhouse/quarter, then did the pass. side wheelhouse / quarter.

 

[Rich H.]

Enjoyed this thread. Thank you for all the posts!

 

[threewood]

These cars are never done!!!

Just some ongoing parts swaps. I replaced the 15/16" sway bar bushings with poly bushings. I drilled out the old, crusty rubber, greased everything up and smooshed the new ones in place without having to cut the mount.

While the sway bar was out I installed some Bilstein front shocks. It seems to drive quite a bit better.

And I welded in LCA stiffening plates. Should have done it when I originally redid the suspension but I guess I glossed over it.

Only one small issue with the Sniper. Once the car arrived in NM and I was driving it around I would get a weird surging, like a vacuum leak. RPMs would kick up then drop. I checked the few vacuum lines on the throttle body, no leaks. Everything tight. I noticed the IAC would go from 0% to 50% and back.

So I unhooked it and it ran without surging. Then I proceeded to look through the Sniper control menu and found an A/C pulloff setting which was set at 50%. Switched it to zero and no more surging. Curious how it only now became an issue. Maybe the delivery driver messed with it, I don't know.

 

[69 GTX]

Did you use offset bushings to get the frontend dialed in or were you able to get there with OEM stuff.

 

[Nxcoupe]

These cars are never done!!!

Just some ongoing parts swaps. I replaced the 15/16" sway bar bushings with poly bushings. I drilled out the old, crusty rubber, greased everything up and smooshed the new ones in place without having to cut the mount.

While the sway bar was out I installed some Bilstein front shocks. It seems to drive quite a bit better.

And I welded in LCA stiffening plates. Should have done it when I originally redid the suspension but I guess I glossed over it.
View attachment 1328493
View attachment 1328494
Only one small issue with the Sniper. Once the car arrived in NM and I was driving it around I would get a weird surging, like a vacuum leak. RPMs would kick up then drop. I checked the few vacuum lines on the throttle body, no leaks. Everything tight. I noticed the IAC would go from 0% to 50% and back.

So I unhooked it and it ran without surging. Then I proceeded to look through the Sniper control menu and found an A/C pulloff setting which was set at 50%. Switched it to zero and no more surging. Curious how it only now became an issue. Maybe the delivery driver messed with it, I don't know.

Something was activating that input, either an IO wire or something else. If the battery has ever gone dead or extremely low, it is a good idea to reflash the firmware and then the tunefile.

 

[threewood]

Did you use offset bushings to get the frontend dialed in or were you able to get there with OEM stuff.

It was pretty well dialed in. With the super stock springs it sits with the pass side raised a bit but the front end height from LCAs was pretty equal. Always tracks straight, never any wheel hop. All oem parts.

 

[threewood]

 

[threewood]

Best run at 13.1 @ 106.8
Adjusted for altitude would be a 12.4 @ 112 mph.