1969 Superbee IDLER ARM issue

[500cubes]

Here is what I know: I purchased a new MEVOTECH MK7041 idler from Rockauto. Before I installed it the old one looked fine but was allowing the top of the inner ball joint to rub against the torsion bar. I have half a dozen old idlers from 68-69 b-bodies & they are all shaped the same. Ive had the car at two places & they went thru the same issues I did without any resolve. Nothing appears bent & the steering still rubs the torsion bar even after bringing it home from an alignment. The drag link appears to run UPWARDS to the idler arm. I am using a manual steering gear box off a 69 RR. There are a dozen idler arms available on Rockauto: I'm thinking ACDELCO 45C1025 may be the answer but I'm guessing they all MUST have the same shape? Has anybody seen this or know how to repair the issue? I am beginning to believe I will need to have one fabricated. Keep in mind 10 mechanics have seen this, 3 of them Mopar experts & nobody sees anything bent. ALL STEERING LINKAGE PARTS ARE NEW.

 

[PP1RT]

Pics would help a bunch.

Welcome aboard

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Yep need pics. Drag link should be downwards and the ends come up towards the idler and pitman arms. My first guess would be the torsion bar/front end height is too low and/or torsion bars very old or too small a diameter. BUT we need pics because i "think" you mean inner tie rod end OR lower ball joint....hard to understand what hits. This group can solve your problem for sure

 

[500cubes]

Are there different idler arm lengths for 69?

 

[500cubes]

Need one that drops about 1/2" to 1" more

 

[Kern Dog]

Wow....The man joins the forum only to ask for help, expects us to do so without posting any pictures either.
You get better results here by introducing yourself, maybe even consider starting a dialog BEFORE diving in to ask for help. This is a voluntary forum. Nobody is paid to give free help.
This is like walking up to a stranger and asking to borrow their car. You really should have been more considerate.

 

[69L48Z27]

^^^^ Easy killer.

 

[dvw]

I had one with the drag link tipped. It was the correct part because the car was purchased new. The original owner never noticed it. Went the the Dodge dealer and talked to there front end guy who had been around many years. He told me it was not uncommon for the mount on the K-frame to be welded crooked or bent. Easy to straighten. A little heat at the base of the mounting tabs and pry the arm to make the center link level. Still have the car I repaired mine on in 1981.
Doug

 

[threewood]

If it only rubs on the pass side, I think dvw is correct.

 

[Thunderlugs]

Having or Had this same experience on my 65 Belvedere. The inner tie rod on pass side very close to rubbing on underside of torsion bar, when turning left, but have at least a half inch strong on the left side. I bought an NOS idler arm which actually helped out. Center link appears to be straight now but the right side is still closer to bar than the left when turning lock to lock. May need to heat and bend bracket, as suggested in #8 I guess I need to wait till I drop in the motor to check the clearance under the back of the oil pan.

 

[dvw]

The center link should stay parallel to the ground when moved through it's travel. If it doesn't the pivot bolt is NOT 90 degrees to the ground when viewed from the vehicle center line. The idler arm pivot bolt center line should be exactly parallel with the steering box pitman shaft, both side to side and forward to back. 2 planes to consider.
Doug

 

[500cubes]

I figured it was one of two things: wrong idler or bent mount. It doesn't look easy to straighten but I will give it a try. Thanks. Ive been on c-bodies only for years so it doesn't feel I'm new.

 

[dvw]

I figured it was one of two things: wrong idler or bent mount. It doesn't look easy to straighten but I will give it a try. Thanks. Ive been on c-bodies only for years so it doesn't feel I'm new.

Actually it's really easy. Some heat it and it bends like butter. It took about 5 minutes.
Doug

 

[500cubes]

Even with the newly rebuilt, painted engine in place? Heat it up, got it, but what did you use to bend it down so both mounting holes are staright?

 

[dvw]

I removed the idler arm bolt. Just slide the arm and linkage back out of the way. Put a solid bar through the holes, heat and move the tabs with the bar. Slide the idler arm/linkage back in and check your work. Repeat as necessary until it's in the right location.
Doug