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1970 Plymouth dash dead/looking for modern replacement gauges

johneich

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8:52 AM
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Location
Paducah, KY
I searched this forum and have my factory manuals, I have not found an answer to my question(s). My dash is dead and dash pad is bad, So i will have to pull the whole thing.

My question, what is a good/great aftermarket gauge package? I know the original gauges can/are really out of wack and a lot of work to get right. I am not looking for factory nut and bolt correct, but I want it kind of close. It really must have space for a Tick Tock Tach also, so a different dash? (I do not currently have a Tick Tock dash). I assume a real dash with a Tick Tock is near unavailable/super expensive. Is there a mod. to get a Tick Tock in a non Tick Tock dash?

Just out of paint, the whole interior is stripped so now/soon is my decision frame.

I should say I am retired and on a little bit of a budget, but not stupid cheap.

The picture is dark and looks worse than it is, it looks rusty but it is not but it shows the bad dash pad and my gauge cluster.

It runs and drives with a flip switch and a momentary button, key only takes it out of park and to drive/reverse.

Most everything under the hood is new. The A/C was removed long before I had this car, (A/C parts still under dash and presumed to be of no value, I would like to add aftermarket A/C in the future) heater core has been bypassed. Car has sat since 1981.

Been a 2 year project so far. Been home for 2 days now, some of the happiest 2 days in this 53 year old dream!

This is the Way! May the Force be with you!

John

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Off the bat, I'd say clean up & re-do your existing dash, add a 3-gauge pod under dash for your requirements. Everything else you mention = $$$
 
Dash pad is much easier to replace if cluster is out. I would pull cluster and diagnose the issue. If entire cluster is dead it is most likely something other than the cluster causing the issue. You can add a factory tach to that dash easily, but it won't be a tic toc. Pull the cluster and show us some more pictures.
 
The dash pad can be an issue. Watch the "for sale" posts and maybe someone will have a decent one. They can be successfully and easily "dyed" with SEM spray bombs.

As for the cluster, decent used ones are readily available in the "for sale" posts and should be fairly inexpensive. FWIW I bought one a couple years back for $40 and as an added bonus it had the 150 lense on it !! Are you sure yours is toast - a common cause if nothing works is broken solder joints on the main connector OR a cracked circuit board. The circuit board is reproduced. You can easily test the connections with a volt/ohm meter to determine if the board has broken solder joints or broken circuits.

I think any aftermarket cluster will break your bank if you're on something of a budget.

A factory tach was available for that cluster and they are reproduced - not cheap !!
 
I really like the Dakota digital option pnora, My big worry would be after getting power to the gauges I would have to deal with each gauge reading high or low as is so common with older original gauges, having to chase down issues between senders and the original gauges, never really getting them near correct has been my past experience. So maybe a new dash pad with a Dakota Digital with a Tick Tock on top of the middle of the dash in a custom housing may be perfect for me? That is what I am thinking is the way, thoughts?
 
This one has been re-done and is pretty close to original but not cheap (as stated above) at about $900

It is on e-bay under "1968-69-70 MOPAR ROAD RUNNER CORONET SATELLITE DASH CLUSTER"

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I really like the Dakota digital option pnora, My big worry would be after getting power to the gauges I would have to deal with each gauge reading high or low as is so common with older original gauges, having to chase down issues between senders and the original gauges, never really getting them near correct has been my past experience. So maybe a new dash pad with a Dakota Digital with a Tick Tock on top of the middle of the dash in a custom housing may be perfect for me? That is what I am thinking is the way, thoughts?
I redid my charger and for what I have tied up in my dash I could of bought two Dakota's. The one thing with the Dakota being all new which includes senders you will have everything you need. Your old one has issues and what will it take? How good is the speedo head? Speedo cable? Plus all the rest. Dakota you will have all digital programmable features. Voltmeter, Oil pressure, tachometer, plus more. Once you are up and running you can dial in the speedometer for the correct speed. The fuel gauge can be adjusted to your sender which for just about all of them is incorrect. This dash will let you adjust the fuel levels to the unit. Plus there is more. Knowing what I know now that is the route I would of went.
 
pnora You had me at "includes senders you will have everything you need" Sounds like MY kind of solution! BIG THANK YOU! Replace the senders, new gauges, no chasing, replacing, head under dash, head under hood, head under dash, head banging. Perfect,
 
Once you look at all the instructions with the dash out you find a place for the interface box and wire it all in. The dash then just plugs in with one cord and bolt it down. Polish your lens. The programming is pretty straight fore ward.
 

Builderguy I really like your idea but for the same amount of money I can get the Dakota dash with senders, I have chased down so many sender/gauge issues with having no change/results. At my age I need to get this going forward :)

 
Let us know what you end up doing AND take pics for us! I am weighing options as well when I get to that point.
 

Builderguy I really like your idea but for the same amount of money I can get the Dakota dash with senders, I have chased down so many sender/gauge issues with having no change/results. At my age I need to get this going forward :)

You need to do what works for you! You are the one working on it so make it so you can enjoy it without pulling your hair out in the process. I was under the impression that the Dakota unit was around double the price @ $1800. A plus is the sending units and the the color you want the gauges to be. Best of luck on your project.
 
Let us know what you end up doing AND take pics for us! I am weighing options as well when I get to that point.
I loved your story, my trunk pans looked worse than yours, once we removed the trunk pans we saw the rot that could not be seen from above or below by our untrained eyes (My general mechanic friend and I) then once we got into it, the sub frame needed to be replaced, kind of a funny story, my mechanic called me and said "I took the rear bumper bolts off by hand, that never happened to me before in my life" turns out one of the PO's apparently looked at it, saw the work needed and buttoned it all back up and sold it to me.

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Really nice work. I know how much work it is removing the old pan. Did you fab the subframe or buy the parts?
 
Had a similar funny story. I bought the car from the first owner, a widow her husband bought the car new back in 1970 been sitting in their backyard for 30 years. Some guys came to look at it before me stuck a screwdriver through the roof. They passed she was upset because they put a hole in the old vinyl lol. She said all it needed was gas to run. Tell that mice living in the motor and the rotted manifold with holes.
 
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