1973 Charger Exhaust System Help

[Scauzone]

I'm currently working on a restoration of a 1973 Dodge Charger SE - Original 400 - 2BBL

Used the original block and heads to make a 451 Stroker. Edelbrock intake. Undecided Carb Choice.

Anyways, I'm trying to figure out what exhaust system I should go with. I have the original manifolds. Not sure if I should go with a manifold back system or do headers and go with a header back system.

I know for sure that I would like to go with an X-Pipe. The items I'm undecided on are:

- Stock Manifolds or Headers
- Brand of Headers
- Tube Size
- 2.5" System or 3" System
- Exhaust Tip Selection - What were the original style exhaust tips on this vehicle?

I've looked at TTi and Pypes. I'm leaning towards Pypes due to material used, however I'm then concerned about which headers to go with and any fitment issues.

Transmission is a torqueflite if that matters.

 

[Scauzone]

No one?

 

[Chargerjase]

Sorry not an expert on the subject, but I can tell you that the original 400 2bbl had a single exhaust and no tips. I believe it was a standard tail pipe that was bent down at the end. The 4bbl had twin pipes.

 

[Scauzone]

Thanks for that at least so if I go with duals and turn down exhaust it shouldn't be a big deal. I can't imagine not having the original style exhaust on the car would really take away from the value, or am I wrong with that thinking?

 

[Chargerjase]

No worries. My car is virtually stock and I'm passionate about keeping it that way, however somebody had just put brand new flow master duals on it with chrome tips when I got it. For one I think the twin exhausts look and sound better, and also they are brand new so it would be stupid to change it out to keep it stock. In this case, I really don't think it would detract from any value, maybe it would even add value.

 

[Moparmatt72]

Unless your going for a numbers matching restoration then stick to what the vin decodes, if not go with duals, headers are always better, TTI's fit the best from what I've gathered, I have hooker super comps on my car. You'd be fine with 2.5" and what ever mufflers your want, 3" will give you a deeper tone and some better hp. Decide what your budget is for headers if you want that route variable cost, TTI, hooker, Dougs header are all good ones.

 

[Scauzone]

Unless your going for a numbers matching restoration then stick to what the vin decodes, if not go with duals, headers are always better, TTI's fit the best from what I've gathered, I have hooker super comps on my car. You'd be fine with 2.5" and what ever mufflers your want, 3" will give you a deeper tone and some better hp. Decide what your budget is for headers if you want that route variable cost, TTI, hooker, Dougs header are all good ones.

My car is numbers matching. Documented vehicle. However I feel given that I have the original intake, carb, exhaust manifolds, and given the way this engine was rebuilt, I'd be better off running duals. Do you have any fitment issues with the hookers and what exhaust do you run after the headers?

 

[Mywifehatesmyhobbie]

Here is what I did to a 68 GTX I owned a few years back. orig motor was long gone so I used a 383 out of a 71 charger. (low budget) installed a new 484 purple cam 109 lobe separation, edlebrock yorker intake a Holley avenger, hooker headers, dual 3" stainless with 2 chamber flow masters cut at the axle. The nastiest sounding car to date. It's been 12 years ago and my neighbors still bring that car up in conversation. " That car shook the windows out of our house"! I spent almost as much on the exhaust as I did on the motor. Well worth it!!!

Anyways when you splurge go with TTI and 3" you won't be disappointed!

 

[Moparmatt72]

My car is numbers matching. Documented vehicle. However I feel given that I have the original intake, carb, exhaust manifolds, and given the way this engine was rebuilt, I'd be better off running duals. Do you have any fitment issues with the hookers and what exhaust do you run after the headers?

The super comps are a bit of a bear to go in cause on each side has one of the tubes separate and wrap around the torsion bars, but I also went with the 2" primaries too. This exhaust is just going to be turned down but angled outward before the rear tires, but I know 3" systems fit all the way out the back. My dad had a 2.5" to the tail and no problems, just his wasnt mandrel bend which if you want a better flow get one that is, the crimp bends like most shops have don't flow as well. The TTI or flow master systems have good fitments from what I have gathered? Course it's always better to have a cross over either x or h pipe but factory systems didn't come with any that I have heard maybe the max wedge ones had one.

 

[sleepar]

Keep the factory manifolds go factory dual exaust back... UN less you want to spend thousands on headers to get a few tenths faster at the track and drag them on everything.... headers on a big block are an expensive pain.... did they have catalytic converters on those ??? That may be required depending on state....

 

[Travis_216]

I have Hooker ceramic coated 1 7/8 tube headers on my 440 in the 73. They were agony to get on, to be honest if I had my time back I would 100% have went with TTI headers. A 2.5" exhaust is perfectly fine for that engine and car. TTI makes a good exhaust for our cars, but I'm going with the PYPES kit because it's a bit cheaper. http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/77R06135/10002/-1?parentProductId=2139671 I have these tips on mine, just mine are red in the slots. I have flowmaster 40 series mufflers on mine now but I'm also switching them out to Hooker aero chamber mufflers, they're a bit pricey sometimes but they are good mufflers and have a very good sound to them.
It's kind of hard to see the tips in this picture but it will give you some idea.