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1973 Satellite Sebring Build

oldsatellite73

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Chattanooga, TN
Hey people, whats up?

My name is Donald, owner of a 1973 Plymouth Satellite Sebring. Been woring on my project (Grandfathers original daily driver) fo 5 1/2 years or so.

I AM NOT PLANNING TO RACE THIS CAR NOW OR IN THE FUTURE. I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AS STOCK LOOKING AS POSSIBLE. It has become the Street Machine I always wanted during my teenage years growing up.

I am getting ready to do the engine and transmission (finally).

So far I have disassembled and cleaned all parts. Had the block dipped and checked for cracks. Bored .30 over due to a head gasket leak into the #3 cylinder which sat for years. New brass freeze plugs. Crank polished and connecting rods checked/sized and peened. New TRW flat top pistons with double valve reliefs. New cam and main bearings. Standard heads, valve seats cleaned up, new bronze valve guides, a three angle valve job with new Comp springs. Intake ports opened up for better flow and gasket matched (intake side only) to a SP2P-318 1970's vintage aluminum intake. Upgraded the cam, i.e. Comp Cams XE262H-10. New Mellig oil pump. Had the entire assembly balanced as a unit.

Parts which have been given to me by friends are as follows: (NIB) an Edelbrock 1406 performer series carb, with electric choke. Edelbrock chrome valve covers. Stock Chrysler electronic ignition system for 1973-74. I have the stock exhaust manifolds which will allow me to order Head pipes from tti and install a dual exhaust, or have a dual exhaust with H-pipe made at a local shop. Am considering a set of headers (always wanted a set as a teenager).

My birthday present after returning from IRAQ, included a pulley conversion kit from Bouchillon Performance which allows me to bypas the A/C system and remove excess weight. The A/C system components are now in storage for future consideration.

Here are the casting numbers I forgot to provide earlier, they are. Numbers on this engine are: left front pad - M348R C7122184 (Mound Road?). Block casting number is - 2536030 318-9. Head casting number is - 2843675 (int. - 1.78 and exh. - 1.50). When the machine work was done only 10 thousands were taken off the block deck to clean up the surfaces. 5 thousands were taken off of the heads to clean the surfaces. The compression should still be from 8.2.1 to 8.8.1 (guessing). I did not have it zero decked to the pistons at the time. Been using FelPro gaskets for the entire assembly.

Exhaust manifold casting numbers are: L/S - 2951916 and R/S - 2843953 (Stock).

My transmission is a A904 automatic equipped for light duty. The rear end is an 8 1/4 open carrier with the 2.71 tag still on it under the grease and grime.

I have spent the last few days reading through the entire question and answer archives. After reviewing the Tech Archives for all that has been posted so far, here is what I am thinking of doing.....

Using many of the parts I have: I will use the Sp2P-318 intake and edelbrock carb in place of the original 2bbl iron intake with carb. Block the EGR Port and Heat Crossovers. Painted the Intake to match the engine, keeping the stock looking appearance. Used stock valve covers in place of the chrome edelbrock (stock look). An acceptable air cleaner is going to be a problem????

Use the mopar electronic ignition system without modification. Updated this system with a better plug wire set (to be determined).

Will have dual exhaust (2 1/2 pipes) with H-pipe and dynomax mufflers. Forgivable modification????

Going to shelf the Air Conditioning for the time being (old school air for now, i.e. windows down and go faster).

While the engine is out: Replace the trans input seal (torque converter) and install shift kit (brand to be determined). Keep the original torque converter (works well enough at this time).

Convert to a floor shift steering column that a friend scored for me off of a 1974 Roadrunner Power Steering with Floor Shift car (Harness should be interchangeable). Install floor shifter and new boot with trim ring (Christmas present). It has been suggested that a top dash mounted 3 inch tachometer would look good (am considering this option).

Put on new matching sport mirrors (painted black). Apply a 72 Roadrunner roof strobe stripe (semi-gloss black) without roadrunner symbol.

Install a hood pin kit received as Christmas gift (cool look).

Rear sail panels have arrived and are being re-dyed to black so as to match interior for installation.

All Satellite and Sebring names are out for rechroming at this time to be put back on the car.

Looking for a Grant 3 spoke steering wheel to change the appearance (does not have to look like a Tough Wheel), Black or Brushed metal????

The donar engine currently in the car, will come out and be rebuilt and kept on hand as a replacement (or not). This one can be built better and stronger for the future.

These pictures were taken 18 days ago when the new tires and rims were put on and a fresh coat of wax after 2 1/2 years in storage... The interior is out, and i'm sewing it togeather all by myself (more pictures to come). Its slow work by yourself... Check them out (thread provided) and let me know what you think???

http://s493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/oldsatellite73/?albumview=slideshow
 
Welcome.

I think you may have posted on our sister site (FABO) and someone suggested dumping the SP2P for an LD4B. That is a good idea. Also, if the cam you chose isn't s SPLIT PROFILE, then you probably do NOT want to run the factory manifolds with it.

I'm not saying you won't, but listen to people who have been at this a while. I had a guy I know call me up asking about cam choice for a 64 BB car he was doing. I asked "headers or manifolds?" He answered manifolds. I said "stock cam" (or at least a split profile). He didn't like that answer and called my runnin bud. Asked the same question. Got the same answer. And when he didn't like that answer he put the cam he wanted in the motor with the manifolds, and it ran like ****. Ultimately he got really frustrated with it and sold it off.
 
Welcome! Sounds like you have a good plan for the car. Stay safe!!
 
Welcome.

I think you may have posted on our sister site (FABO) and someone suggested dumping the SP2P for an LD4B. That is a good idea. Also, if the cam you chose isn't s SPLIT PROFILE, then you probably do NOT want to run the factory manifolds with it.

I'm not saying you won't, but listen to people who have been at this a while. I had a guy I know call me up asking about cam choice for a 64 BB car he was doing. I asked "headers or manifolds?" He answered manifolds. I said "stock cam" (or at least a split profile). He didn't like that answer and called my runnin bud. Asked the same question. Got the same answer. And when he didn't like that answer he put the cam he wanted in the motor with the manifolds, and it ran like ****. Ultimately he got really frustrated with it and sold it off.
Your ar correct. Some of the guys PM'd me and suggested that I post on this site as well. I am happy with all the information and greatly appreciate the advice I have gotten so far... I respect the community and will follow many recommendations given so far. I have not been able to find an LD4B (cost prohibitive). But, am considering a performer as suggested as an alternative (#2176?). I have reconsidered the exhaust issue and am seeking a set of reasonable costing headers ($200.00? not including shipping). Thanks again everyone who has contributed to this project so far. Interior is finsihed, (so far) and will look good for a daily driver. Improvements will come later and give me much to do in the comming years (yeah!)

THanks... Donald
 
Donald, you can probably get some headers from Summit for around $100. Then again, you could probably spend $600-800 for a total TTI system. First class stuff, but I've bought a lot of cars for less:grin:

I'm sure you'll do a good job on your Satellite. Just keep pressing forward and asking questions.:HappyNewYear:
 
Sounds to me like you have the engine well planned out. The SP2P is a really small runner intake and will probably do fine with the stock manifolds. By the way, you can probably find some 360 exh. manifolds that fit your chassis, which may have larger passages and offer less restriction than what you have - and they should be almost free. The combo will probably peeter out at around 4000 RPM but offer good driveability through the mid range. I like the factory 360 cast iron TQ manifold and carb, again, one reason is because they are almost free, and the other is the manifold has a decent rise and runner size. The TQ works well with an engine that produces good vacuum (i.e. what you're building). Agreed, the LD4B or performer would be a better choice, but cost vs. what you get in perf I'd stick to the TQ setup or what you already have. Hey, if you don't like the SP2P change it. It's only a set of intake gaskets and a couple of hours. Don't forget to drain the block to save yourself flooding the engine with coolant.

I would make one change to your plan. Leave the exhaust heat open on the cast iron manifold or just slightly restricted on the aluminum one. Aluminum is a better heat conductor and too much heat can cause the gas in the float bowl to evaporate at a too high rate causing other issues. I never had that problem on a MoPar probably because the heat riser passages are fairly small. With the amount of air flowing through the carb at WOT the hot floor of the intake will cool rapidly (more rapidly with aluminum) and give a similar result to the A/F mixture as if the crossover was blocked. It's also easier on a cold engine and the car will run better when cold due to improved fuel distribution. FI cars get away with no heat crossover because the fuel to each cylinder is precisely controlled.
 
With headers and duels the SP2P on your 318. That manifold matches the small 318 intake ports. I bought a 3" B body summit exhaust system, summit fully welded turbo mufflers and summit headers for $375.00, and its as nice as TTI's are at $900.00. You need to take another 30 off of the heads to get the compression up around 9:1 to 1. Without cylinder pressure you will not be happy with your engine. Also over the years it's been learned that 360 heads on a 318 don't work as good as 318 heads.
 
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