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2” or 2 1/2”

Mufflers do make difference. On my Satellite, removing the "cherry bomb" style mufflers made a HUGH difference. At least .7 seconds at the strip.
 
Mufflers do make difference. On my Satellite, removing the "cherry bomb" style mufflers made a HUGH difference. At least .7 seconds at the strip.
Do you mean from cherry bombs to uncorked? If so, those cherry bombs must have been AWFUL!
 
You'll find more power in a free-flowing muffler than going from 2" (dual) to 2.5" (dual) exhaust. If you want to quiet it down, run an x-pipe, again, this will improve overall power and lower the perceived dB.
 
The difference between a X and H pipe is mainly in the sound and over all DB to “Your” ears. Your neighbors may not know much of a difference standing in front of it or within there house.

David Vizard’s suggestions are the best I have seen on quietness while keeping power. But this may not suite all ears (more on that in a second) as he employs a system that could be a PIA to construct and employ 4 muffling devices. Notice how I said devices….. 2 being glass packs, 2 being mufflers & 2 pressure wave cancellation boxes. It also has pipe sizes going to the next size up into the glass pack & mufflers.

A smaller exhaust tube will be quieter.
A 2-1/2 pipe can support around that 600hp area.
The longer the muffler, the more sound it can deaden. But at the expense of flow. This is why you put the next pipe size muffler to the smaller exhaust pipe.

Mostly I think it is the combination sound between the glass packs and the muffler that most don’t like.
 
You'll find more power in a free-flowing muffler than going from 2" (dual) to 2.5" (dual) exhaust. If you want to quiet it down, run an x-pipe, again, this will improve overall power and lower the perceived dB.
Bingo!
Best flowing mufflers are straight through!
Glass pack style like the Hooker or Dyno Max Ultra Flow.
Chambered and turbo mufflers are about neck and neck even with the edge to the chambered depending on the design. Hookers Aero Chamber is an excellent flowing chambered muffler. I also love the sound & IMO sounds best when it ends at the axle on a hot & powerful engine.
 
Bingo!
Best flowing mufflers are straight through!
Glass pack style like the Hooker or Dyno Max Ultra Flow.
Chambered and turbo mufflers are about neck and neck even with the edge to the chambered depending on the design. Hookers Aero Chamber is an excellent flowing chambered muffler. I also love the sound & IMO sounds best when it ends at the axle on a hot & powerful engine.
Rumble, you just described my system on my tina: hooker aeros, 3 1/2 in and out, dumped toward each other, right in front of the axle. The aeros were the cheapest 3 1/2s I could find, and the rest of the system was made with leftovers from my savoy.
Edit: liked the sound, low 10s/high 9s, n/a thru the mufflers.
 
Rumble, you just described my system on my tina: hooker aeros, 3 1/2 in and out, dumped toward each other, right in front of the axle. The aeros were the cheapest 3 1/2s I could find, and the rest of the system was made with leftovers from my savoy.
Edit: liked the sound, low 10s/high 9s, n/a thru the mufflers.
Do you have an X or H in there? Ether way….
Then “I Love” the sound of that MoPar of yours. They are inexpensive mufflers that flow really well. The S/S mufflers are worth the price if you want them long term.
A few MoPar cohort buddies of mine run these @ 3 inch on there small blocks.
 
No x or h, just some pieces of straight tubing, some homemade flanges on the headers and headpipes, and about a foot of tubing after the muffler, and some turndowns pointed a little toward each other. (Pointing them a little towards each other was a tip I heard somewhere. I liked how it worked.)
I probably have the same amount of dollars in the whole system as the two mufflers cost now. They doubled since I bought them.
 
Pointing the tips inward at each other (good trick that works!) helps quite the sound a little. I see that done a lot. It makes sense.
 
I'd say stay with what you have if it looks good and everything still fits. If you're wondering the difference in HP, there is a great Engine Masters episode that shows you the difference on a dyno 2" vs 2 1/2" vs 3", single vs dual, straight vs X vs H, etc.

I recently researched the issue and here's what I did on my mostly stock 426 Satellite. Please keep in mind the 2 1/4" rusted system that was on the car when I got it, wasn't going back on the car! I went with the TTI 2 1/2" coated H pipe with the Dynoflow setup. I also had the stock manifolds ceramic coated inside and out, hoping to keep the under hood heat down a little.

IMHO it's a pretty good setup, sounds tough when idling and not too loud even when cruising with the top down. The coated pipes should translate to the last exhaust system the car ever sees.
 
Factory off the hipo manifolds was 2 1/2" to the mufflers, 2 1/4" tailpipes, correct?
 
We tested 2 1/2 and 3 Inch on our 500 HP 440 and 450HP 360 NO DIFFERENCE
on rear wheel Dyno or Track with Flowmaster 40s on both. 2 inch TTIs on 440 and
1 5/8 step to 1 3/4 on 360. Negligible difference uncapped. Turn down before axle.
 
My 64 Fury was upgraded to a 383 this past summer. Before I could finish the exhaust I ran out of warm weather. The dual exhaust that came with the car is just about new with Flow Masters, all nice and shiny. The car isn’t going to be raced and will just be used for cruising. Exhaust pipes measure just a little over 2” OD so I am guessing they are 2” ID. Question is, is it worth upgrading to 2 1/2” pipes for a cruiser from new 2” pipes off of HP manifolds.
I'd go 2.5 off the manifolds since the outlet is that size. And about 2 feet of pipe before it shrinks down. Try not to have too abrupt of a size change if possible.
 
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