383 build advice

[1970Bee]

In another thread, I’ve asked for and received help on my car which turns out had a lifter failure. In this one I’m going to solicit some advice about changes I might make when it goes back together.

The car itself has great pieces- TCI 727, 3500 stall and Dana 60 with 3.91 gears, all of which are working as the should.

(This is where I’m making some assumptions based on my Brand X experience, so asking for input) The motor was put together in 2006 with high RPM operation in mind: Ross flat top pistons, ~248/254 577/584 SR cam, Team G SP intake and almost $1500 of work (receipts aren’t specific about what, exactly) on a set of 452 heads. A Holley Sniper EFI is on the car and seems to work very well. The car drove very well, but these specs tell me this motor wasn’t waking up much below 5k rpm and really wanted to rev to 6.5k, at least (my experience with Chevys tells me a 400 or so CI motor with that much cam, valve and intake volume would suggest that- I know the Mopar large bore/short stroke changes things, so I’m a bit lost).

I know the motor needs a new set of lifters and springs. Seems likely the cam, as well. No metal in the oil or filter, so believe the rotating system is ok. I’ve never “turned a car down,” but imagine doing so might make it more fun for spirited street driving, since it will likely never see the track.

So for those patient enough to have read this far (tried to be concise, but figured the background was pertinent), what are some recommendations for a fun driver? Smaller roller cam (maybe around 230 and 525 or so?), DP intake? Maybe a set of 440 Source or Eddy heads? What kind of power should I expect- 425 or so and at a livable RPM? I don’t mind the gear, but will my converter be too much if I have less cam? Or should I try to find a decent 440 and call it a day (cursory search doesn’t turn up many of those, but guess they are still out there)?

Not on a super tight budget, but do have other projects. And a wife . So not looking to just throw a credit card at it; but willing to spend a little where it will yield good results.

Sorry this was so long, but figured the background will help inform any advice given. Thanks in advance!

 

[qkcuda]

I think you are headed in the right direction. I would not necessarily replace the 452 heads with OOTB Eddies or Stealths. You may not see any improvement. You should also see what compression you have now, because it will be higher with the smaller chambers in the aftermarket heads. I would go with a Performer RPM intake, and I think you are in the right ballpark on the cam.

 

[4mulas]

Sounds like you were way over cammed before. If it ate lifters I’d do a complete engine tear down and reassembly. I’d be curious to know what connecting rods you had to rev to 6500 rpm.

All of that said if you really and truly want a way better all around experience I’d ditch all that stuff and get a 400 block to make a 451 stroker with a 440 crank (turned down to fit).
If you don’t want to chase down a 400 block you could use your 383 block with the 440 crank for a 438 cube motor. Both of these combos will far out perform what you have now.

I did a 451 with this cam https://www.hughesengines.com/Index...nQ=&searchmode=partnumber&page=1&partid=30256
Good rods, and forged pistons. Heads were out of the box e-street heads with a valve grind done right away, and it pulled like a freight train and revved like a 2 stroke. You would not be disappointed. Your 452’s might be okay too.
You can here the car run with the motor I did for it at the end of this video (around the 7:34 mark)

 

[#41]

Here is a good intake manifold read: https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/hrdp-0712-mopar-intake-manifold-comparo

 

[PRHeads]

My suggestion is pretty short and sweet…….

“Fix” what needs it(new lifters/springs, etc), RPM intake, 2 steps smaller cam.
Put it back together and drive it.

If you start wanting more, start saving and gathering parts for a stroker.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Personally I'm not afraid of a 383 and high rpms. My thoughts on your original post was to much converter on the hard to get moving issue. My original 67 383 car was shifted on a regular basis at 7000 rpms when drag racing. I had a radical cam by today's standards. 915 heads with everything that could be done to them in 1969, by Reed Cams in Atlanta. Mine was a 4-speed so there was no worry about a convertor. With the gears and size tires I was running I usually had to petal the car in the last 60 feet to stay at 7000 rpms. On a couple occasions I didn't lift in the last 60 feet and it held together at over 8000 rpms. It was a basically stock bottom end.

 

[1970Bee]

Good stuff all around. Gonna work on getting the cam out here (I work slow and have a pretty good list of chores!).

I do love the idea of a stroker and the extra power…but sometimes I need an appetite suppressant; I think I’m gonna work towards PRHeads’ suggestion and inspect and fix what’s broke. For now, at least

 

[ruffcut]

My suggestion is pretty short and sweet…….

“Fix” what needs it(new lifters/springs, etc), RPM intake, 2 steps smaller cam.
Put it back together and drive it.

If you start wanting more, start saving and gathering parts for a stroker.

my suggestion is to listen to PRHeads. He knows of what he speaks.
As for a stroker, I have a 512 in my Roadrunner and wish now I would have built something much tamer for the street! We're talking 600 HP. Oh it's fun to drive for short outings, but to go any distance, too loud and really drinks fuel!

 

[496 polara]

I would pull it apart and check everything.If it passes the test find out your actual compression and call Dwayne @PRHeads and talk camshafts. I think the rpm intake is the way to go.

With the stall and gear you can still run a cam that will turn 6500 rpm easily and gain some more midrange. You just want to make sure it will play nice with the fuel injection.

 

[1970Bee]

Life and my honey-do list (I’ve been overseas for work most of the last 2 years) has kept progress slow.
At this point, I see no reason to pull the motor altogether, unless I see a bunch of material missing from any of the lobes. I will do cam, lifters and springs (heads are tempting, but roller cam capable heads are approaching $2k, and not sure how much power they’d bring over my 452s).
A stroker kit isn’t in the cards with this block, as it’s already at 4.31 and unsure it’d tolerate any more bore or even finish honing to accommodate new pistons or rings. So- if it needs a rebuild (or I want a stroker kit), I’m thinking the block isn’t a good candidate and the bottom half is done for.

So, plan is to do as PHRheads suggested: fix what I know is wrong, proceed deliberately and cross my fingers. If it goes wrong, all I’m out is the new valve train and a short block I don’t think can be rebuilt anyway. I don’t want to get caught up in the expense of chasing hp on this car. Yet . Once my other project is on the road, I may revisit…though converting to a manual would be higher on my list than another 100-150 hp.

Thanks very much to all! Will post progress!

 

[Runcharger]

Good plan. I was reading the build and thinking "man that's right on" but if it seems a bit radical then do what PR suggested, I think you'll be pretty happy with it and the cost is reasonable as well. Too may times on here I see a guy asking about a stockish rebuild and about 5 posts down it's already into a full race mode $15k double throw down build.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Some 383's can be bored .070. Sonic check it rather then assume game over. A std low compression 440 piston works and is about zero deck.
If the torque convertor is loose and undrivable get a custom convertor made. The 9 1/2" convertors work well, they can be made to cruise comfortably and flash even higher then what you have.

 

[1970Bee]

Good points! I certainly wouldn’t assume the block can’t be taken to .70 without checking it; I’m just not optimistic it could be if I do pull it out and check it.
And the converter (or anything else on the car) wasn’t really objectionable; when the car belonged to my brother, we did two cross country trips in it. The lifter just failed soon after I bought it (title wasn’t even transferred yet!), and I realized that the cam, etc. was way more radical than I’d realized when I started going over the collection of old receipts.
I hope a milder cam and dp intake plays well with the converter that’s in it, but doubt I’d change it- im a manual guy at heart and would head that direction rather than investing more into the 727 set up.

 

[1970Bee]

Been working around a bunch of other projects, and should get the cam out tomorrow. I did do a compression check, and am satisfied with the results and will proceed.
The 2 questions I have at this point are recommendations regarding heads and cam choice.
Heads: 452s done by Hensley Racing, 2.14 and 1.81 valves, and cc’d at 83.4 (about $1200 worth of work in 2006, according to the invoice. Flat top 4.315 bore Ross pistons and CR works out to 9.54…
Would there be much benefit in going with a set of Stealth Heads? My “Brand X” experience tells me the 452s should be enough head for a ~400ci engine that won’t see more than 6k rpm, but am open to suggestions.
For the cam, was planning to purchase a HR cam, lifters and appropriate springs. 230-ish, 540-ish is what I’m thinking. But, again, that not be right for a baby big block Mopar. Any specific recommendations?

What I want out of this is a motor that makes decent torque at 3-3.5k rpm and max power maybe 5.5? A car that is fun and responsive. Hensley says the motor was good to 6k, and again, that seems reasonable for a motor with a 3.3” stroke and steel crank. The car has no power brakes, but power steering and AC might be on the horizon (because, Texas!).

So- Stealth heads: real benefit over the worked 452s, or is the money better spent elsewhere? If I change the springs, do I have to replace the locks, retainers, etc?

With the cam, does that size HR cam seem about right for what I’m asking?

 

[68-500]

The advantage to stealth heads would be, 1 smaller cc chamber increase in compression. 2 closed chamber to possibly achieve a decent quench distance. 3 aluminum dissipates heat faster. Both 2&3 will help decrease the chance of detonation and pre-ignition. My guess is out of the box they flow similar to your worked over 452’s. Personally I would choose a Trick Flow 240 or Brodix.

 

[1970Bee]

Thought the Trick Flows were needing a 4.32 bore? Not sure about the Brodix. Would either add much to a smallish motor?

 

[68-500]

Your 4.31 thats close enough.

 

[Runcharger]

I'd stick with the 452's for now if it were mine.