• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

383 Engine Knocking, Sputtering after Shut Off

Tyron68

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:00 AM
Joined
Mar 9, 2022
Messages
272
Reaction score
129
Location
Kellyville
I have a 69 Charger with a stock 383. I have done some very minor work on the engine which included replacing the factory 2-barrel with a 4-barrel intake and Edelbrock carb, replacing plugs. The car is actually running great right now, except for my issue is when I shut it off, it knocks, sputters and sometimes takes a good 10 seconds to shut off. Any ideas what this could be and possible remedies? A friend suggested I try pulling the main plug off the coil to see if the car shuts off and it does the exact same thing. The coil appears to be the factory coil. Some things to note is I have had the car for about a year and am just got to the point where I am driving it. Up until last week, I would just start it every week and let it idle. I pulled the plugs last week and cleaned them. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I have a 69 Charger with a stock 383. I have done some very minor work on the engine which included replacing the factory 2-barrel with a 4-barrel intake and Edelbrock carb, replacing plugs. The car is actually running great right now, except for my issue is when I shut it off, it knocks, sputters and sometimes takes a good 10 seconds to shut off. Any ideas what this could be and possible remedies? A friend suggested I try pulling the main plug off the coil to see if the car shuts off and it does the exact same thing. The coil appears to be the factory coil. Some things to note is I have had the car for about a year and am just got to the point where I am driving it. Up until last week, I would just start it every week and let it idle. I pulled the plugs last week and cleaned them. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
What is your idle rpm? Auto or manual transmission?
 
What is your idle rpm? Auto or manual transmission?
Automatic transmission. I honestly am not sure what the idle RPM is, but I can check tonight. I do think I need to dial down the idle just a bit.
 
the engine that continues to cough, puke, knock and sputter after the ignition is turned off, may be doing so because some hot spots within the combustion chamber continue to ignite the air/fuel mixture. But don't rule out an electrical issue that may cause the ignition to get an intermittent charge due to a worn ignition switch or some other wiring issue.

engines with mechanical fuel pumps and carburetors, only need the ignition system to ignite the spark. but an engine with carbon build up in the combustion chambers, or even nearly melted areas on the piston from detonation (pinging) and keep things going after the ignition is turned off.

ignition timing set on the advanced side can also cause this internal heating to be excessive enough to cause the dieseling.

A couple of things to try, is to rule out an electrical issue, but you seem to have done that by disconnecting the coil with the ignition system still on. other ideas is to temporarily retard the timing back 10 degrees or more, to a more cooler operating range. Another is treating for carbon build up. I did this once to an engine spraying a fine mist from a garden sprayer through the carburetor while giving it lots of throttle to keep it running. But heavy deposits built up over time may require chemical or, removing the heads to clean mechanically from the affected areas.

Don't forget the "italian tune-up" method. I've used it on a few diesel cars, too. It involves going wide-open-throttle on a steep hill incline, placing the engine under heavy loads and upper RPM ranges, to flush out that carbon. But be careful, if the ignition timing is pretty far advanced, this can make things pretty hot.

I'm thinking a really rich A/F mixture may also contribute to the dieseling for similar reasons, there is heat in the engine igniting the mixture after the ignition has turned off.
 
Does the Edelbrock carb have t'slots like a Holley? If so, throttle blades need to be backed off until the slot is square and then readjust the idle mixture screws. Had the same issue with my Holley carb Sixpack. You would have to remove the carb and turn it over to view this, if they are alike. Try checking the other advice first, and timing.
 
the engine that continues to cough, puke, knock and sputter after the ignition is turned off, may be doing so because some hot spots within the combustion chamber continue to ignite the air/fuel mixture. But don't rule out an electrical issue that may cause the ignition to get an intermittent charge due to a worn ignition switch or some other wiring issue.

engines with mechanical fuel pumps and carburetors, only need the ignition system to ignite the spark. but an engine with carbon build up in the combustion chambers, or even nearly melted areas on the piston from detonation (pinging) and keep things going after the ignition is turned off.

ignition timing set on the advanced side can also cause this internal heating to be excessive enough to cause the dieseling.

A couple of things to try, is to rule out an electrical issue, but you seem to have done that by disconnecting the coil with the ignition system still on. other ideas is to temporarily retard the timing back 10 degrees or more, to a more cooler operating range. Another is treating for carbon build up. I did this once to an engine spraying a fine mist from a garden sprayer through the carburetor while giving it lots of throttle to keep it running. But heavy deposits built up over time may require chemical or, removing the heads to clean mechanically from the affected areas.

Don't forget the "italian tune-up" method. I've used it on a few diesel cars, too. It involves going wide-open-throttle on a steep hill incline, placing the engine under heavy loads and upper RPM ranges, to flush out that carbon. But be careful, if the ignition timing is pretty far advanced, this can make things pretty hot.

I'm thinking a really rich A/F mixture may also contribute to the dieseling for similar reasons, there is heat in the engine igniting the mixture after the ignition has turned off.
Got it. One thing I forgot to mention is that when I pulled the plugs a couple of weeks ago, they all had the carbon fouling black soot on the ends (I noted above that I cleaned them and car runs a lot better). Maybe that ties into some of what you are saying?
 
Does the Edelbrock carb have t'slots like a Holley? If so, throttle blades need to be backed off until the slot is square and then readjust the idle mixture screws. Had the same issue with my Holley carb Sixpack. You would have to remove the carb and turn it over to view this, if they are alike. Try checking the other advice first, and timing.
I am not sure, but I will find out. It is the Edelbrock AVS2 carburetor.
 
Called dieseling...carbon build up in the combustion chamber glows red and continues to fire even after ignition/fuel shut off, due to usually over rich conditions leaving carbon on piston and valves built up over time. Adjust carb, start and run the car, while running go under hood, pour water from a regular drinking bottle of water slowly down the carb revving as necessary to keep car running, will steam off excess carbon.
 
Last edited:
Put it in drive or reverse before shutting it off and it will die immediatly;then put it in park. Problem solved.
 
Yeah, I used to kill the engine in 1st, until I figured why it wanted to diesel. It shuts off just like it's supposed to now.
 
Does it have a bigger cam than stock? That is the usual culprit, because a higher idle speed is reqd, which causes run-on.
 
Called dieseling...carbon build up in the combustion chamber glows red and continues to fire even after ignition/fuel shut off, due to usually over rich conditions leaving carbon on piston and valves built up over time. Adjust carb, start and run the car, while running go under hood, pour water from a regular drinking bottle of water slowly down the carb revving as necessary to keep car running, will steam off excess carbon.
^^^^ I usually do this every year or so. Gently pour, don’t kill it.
 
I sounds like the throttle blades are not closing fully on shut down. Some carbs had a vacuum solenoid that helped this situation. When the engine was running, with vacuum, there was an idle stop that the curb idle was set against. When the engine shut off, the vacuum went away, causing this stop to drop, closing the throttle blades fully. Check to see if this is working correctly, if present.
 
Back
Top