4 speed racers questions???

[cj's mopar]

I have couple questions please for the guys who run in the 10-11 second range .
Do.you run a.Fork.boot on the bell housing or no boot?
Do you run gear oil or Syncromaxx fluid in the a833.
Just looking to set up car.for best qtr Mile times I can get .
Also do you guys want trans levers to be tight or loose fitting where the rods com through?
Stock hemi 4 speed . Rebuilt.
I am sure lots of people do thing to help with 4 speeds . Just wondering.
Please don't tell me to run a auto trans .
We want to do the best we can with the banger .

 

[gkent]

Fork boot is unnecessary weight for a racer !!!

 

[dvw]

Yhe linkage needs to be as tight and slop free as possible. You can add stop bolts to the factory Hurst unit by drilling and tapping the housing. Assuming you are going to retain the blocker rings and stock style servos. I've found if the sliders and hubs are smooth and loose (worn with no burrs) the trans shifts really quick. You can pull on the shifter as hard as you want under load, it won't move. Just tapping the clutch allows it to come out of gear. It'll go into the next gear regardless of clutch posistion if you move the shifter quick enough. Relaeasing the throttle is unnecesary. Unless it's on street tires. Then this will cause excessive wheel spin on the shift. It may not recover traction until 3rd or 4th gear. Standard 85/140 gear oil works fine for me. No reason to leave the boot out. But track only I wouldn't worry either way.
Doug

 

[gkent]

Also do you guys want trans levers to be tight or loose fitting where the rods com through?

You want those tight but not binding. If you're talking about the rectangular levers, those will bottom on the shift levers so tight will be fine and not bind.

I like sharp new brass syncros. As for the syncro teeth on the sliders and gears, I've never owned any that were perfect. I take a "tootsie roll" and remove the roughness. I round over the lead in edge of the center "roostercomb" on both levers - this will make shifts smooth like a hot knife through butter.

 

[cj's mopar]

I appreciate the tips , not sure I am familiar with the term roostercomb.
Are you referring to the lead edge of the shift gate levers in the center of the th Hurst shifter?

 

[gkent]

The roostercombs are the shift mechanisms inside the trans on th the side covers. See the red circled areas - I round these over so the detent ball rolls over easier.

 

[Rebelrouser]

It depends how serious you are about racing and how many RPM's you expect to shift at. The pictured side cover is what is called detent and interlock system, gives you feel of when the gear has been engaged and keeps the transmission from trying to go into two gears at once. I would be very careful grinding the rooster comb very much. Getting a 4-speed hung in two gears at speed would be a disaster, might even wreck the car, as it locks the transmission solid.

Back in the day I raced a 48 Anglia with a 340 4-speed. Used a 10 lb aluminum flywheel, and a vertical gate Hurst shifter and had the transmission pro-shifted. Direct Connection bible would talk about slick shifting where you ground off every other tooth on the synchronizer. Proshifting was the next step, you sent off your gears, and they removed the stock synchronizer hub and welded on a lug ring. Had to shift fast and hard even at low speeds but you never missed a gear. **** rods were all redone with hiem joints you want them smooth with no play.

The other secret is that you want a clutch that slips just a little to cut down on breakage, I used a three-puck brass disc. I ran that car 10 years and never broke any of the drive train, it ran low 10's high 9's back in the 1980's