426 wedge tuning question

[MIKESPOLARA]

Thought I'd throw this out here to see if I might be missing something. 426 max wedge clone. factory intake, carbs (early 3447S). It has always taken about 10-15 minutes before it will stay idling in gear. Start it up if I put it in D or R it'll die until it's got some heat in it, maybe 5 minutes in summer 10-15 in winter. Dist is locked out at 30 degrees. I have always assumed it was just a function of the big plenum intake causing this, But thought I'd ask if there's possibly something in the tune that could cause this.

 

[Dave6T4]

Lack of exhaust heat to the carbs. 30 degrees total distributor timing sounds a little short. Maybe 34?

 

[khryslerkid]

Do the carbs have chokes?

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

Lack of exhaust heat to the carbs. 30 degrees total distributor timing sounds a little short. Maybe 34?

I have to use too much octane boost to run more then 30. I have to use octane boost just to make it to 30

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

Do the carbs have chokes?

Manual chokes. But I don't like to use them. The chokes are more necessary during winter months just to get it started. Yea, I was thinking that maybe choking it cold would help it to not die.

 

[AR67GTX]

I’m not very familiar with the throttle linkage on those manifolds but can you find a place where an idle speed solenoid could be mounted that affected both carbs? Then an on/off switch could be mounted inside to give you a fast idle operation during warm up that is lacking without chokes. Two solenoids could be used, one at each carb but more money. Brackets might have to be home made. Manual chokes would even be better if they activate the fast idle cam on both carbs.

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

I’m not very familiar with the throttle linkage on those manifolds but can you find a place where an idle speed solenoid could be mounted that affected both carbs? Then an on/off switch could be mounted inside to give you a fast idle operation during warm up that is lacking without chokes. Two solenoids could be used, one at each carb but more money. Brackets might have to be home made. Manual chokes would even be better if they activate the fast idle cam on both carbs.

Idle speed does not change this. It's already idling very fast due to torque convertor being too tight so there is a large RPM drop when going into gear. A looser convertor would help a lot but something I'm not doing.

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

My choke cable bracket is not like this 3 bolt type. One of my issues is my holding bracket for the cable uses 1 screw and comes loose too often so I tend to not use it. I'll have to check if my carbs have these 3 screw holes, if so then try to find this style of clamp.

 

[stage3]

everyone I've owned r that way, the only exception is the 1 i have now thats been modified, carbs r moved inboard 1 1/2" and raised 1" and using hemi crossram holleys. locked timing at 35. starts easier but i hold the throttle until the temp gauge hits 100 and then it will idle on its own and the hotter it gets the faster it will idle and i have it set at 1400...

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

everyone I've owned r that way, the only exception is the 1 i have now thats been modified, carbs r moved inboard 1 1/2" and raised 1" and using hemi crossram holleys. locked timing at 35. starts easier but i hold the throttle until the temp gauge hits 100 and then it will idle on its own and the hotter it gets the faster it will idle and i have it set at 1400...

View attachment 1906002

Yes, sounds like just the nature of the intake. Mine starts OK, will idle in park OK but it has to get some heat before I can drop it in D or R. When my temp gauge just starts to move. Takes about 3-5 minutes

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

Anyone have any suggestions to find the cable brackets