My biggest concern with your engine and some of the cams recommended thus far is if you have enough compression to support them. The Lunati 60300 seems mild enough to work very well but I'd check with them (and any cam mfgr) for recommended compression ratio. A 78 440 is pretty low CR, like 8:1, or even lower I think. Closed chamber heads will help, but only add a half point or so. I'm a big fan of 915's.
I have said this before and I'll say it again, the single most important factor in cam selection is the point of intake valve closing, which makes or breaks cylinder pressure. If the cyl pressure is too low it will run like a pig. Another thing you can do if you choose one of the medium grinds listed here is to advance it 4 deg. This will close the intake valve sooner thereby creating more cylinder pressure. Lift is pretty much irrelevant in this equation and you are not going to feel a .010" difference, but you will feel 10 deg of intake closing difference. Intake closing angle should be compared using advertised numbers and not a .050". In other words, it only takes a few thousands of an inch to cause a leak in the cylinder, so it would make sense to build cylinder pressure right when the valve closes.
For a daily 87 R+M/2, shoot for about 160 PSI cranking compression. You might go higher and get away with it, or better to increase your detonation margin and run premium, but as you approach the 200 PSI mark you better have good gas. Also do not retard the timing to band aid the issue from too much cylinder pressure. Run the recommended 38 total with the correct cam/CR combo and you will be happy.
The torker is great for the 2200 - 6500 PRM cams. Maybe a stock TQ, six pac, performer with a small notch cut in the plenum divider wall or an old CH4B would be better for the mild cam. Stock Magnum springs with about 90 PSI seat pressure and stamped rockers will be fine with the milder cams.
As an example, I have this cam in my 8.5:1 455 Olds powered jet boat and it is very responsive and produces plenty of vacuum to keep the stock QJ happy -
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN-803901&autoview=sku
I think this might be the MoPar version but not sure -
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN-643941&autoview=sku
One thing you can do just after you slap the cam in - before you button everything up - is to do a cranking compression test. I wouldn't expect the cam to walk out of the block, but you can put the timing chain cover on with two bolts if for nothing else to keep your neck tie from getting caught in the timing chain as you crank the engine :tongueflap: This will allow you to get instant results and you can make adjustments right there or just swap in another cam. Have the cams stacked up like chord wood on your fender!! I will be doing this with my 440 on the engine stand or hanging from a crane with a starter motor and a battery.
