440 Coolant leak - running down edge of drivers side engine mount.

[sprintgtvgus]

Hi

I seem to have a coolant leak.

I notice it most after running the car, even only for a few moments and then shutting the car down.

A steady drip leading to a small pool of coolant then seems to form.

It seems to drop and run down the inside metal edge of the drivers side engine mount just near the dip stick.

I can't see where it's coming from despite looks from underneath (I have yet to get it on a ramp unfortunately, but plan to) and above.

There actually seems to be a coolant leak mark where the engine mount bolts into the block.... But It's a struggle to see with the headers and mount etc.

The core plugs (or one that I can see) look dry.

Trans cooler lines seem dry.

All rad hoses etc are bone dry.

I can't see any coming from the head, but I suppose it could be that???

Has anyone else had a similar sort of problem?

Worried I have a head leak or something!?

 

[moparlee]

Check your header bolts/studs. Several of them are open to the water jacket in the heads. Remove them, clean the threads, and re-install with thread sealant.

 

[moparcrazy]

Yes i agree Header BOLT !

 

[69Bee]

Only three things should leak there:

1) Rusted out Core Plug (freezeplug)

2) A leaking header bolt/exhaust stud

3) A cracked block at a motor mount lug

ps.. the word freeze plug is a misnomer. It is actually a core plug, where the casting sand from the mold was cleaned out from inside the block. The expansion that results from water changing states from a liquid to solid, will not be enough to push a plug out. I could be possible with a flat plug, and slightly possible with a shallow plug, but not possible with a deep plug. I have seen many blocks cracked from core plug hole to core plug hole, and even a 12" split where you could actually feel and see a protrusion of the cast iron. The split was over two or three plug holes...

 

[sprintgtvgus]

Uh oh!

Going to see if I can get her on a ramp tonight/tomorrow.

The cracked motor mount lug or rusted core plug sound the most likely, but still hoping its a header bolt' I've ordered some hight temp thread sealant.

I think there's a core plug behind the motor mount which is hard to see? The one to the right of the dipstick is fine.

If it is the block; can the block be cast welded?

I have the thought of some bodges such as some external JB weld or some stop leak, but I'm loathe to go down that route!!

I wan planning to drive to the Le Mans 24HR race early next month.... :icon_frown:

 

[sprintgtvgus]

Bingo!

I borrowed a snap on bore scope and it shows that there is a load of yellow sludge around the core plug behind the engine mount.

Relieved! Hopefully that's it, a leaking core plug....

Does anyone know what size this plugs (behind driver side motor mount) are/can anyone check? Should I also use sealant on the core plug?

I want to try and order one here in the UK to save a long wait for international shipping.

 

[69Bee]

The plugs are 1 5/8", and I would use a deep plug so it will seal better by not cocking in the hole. The part number is EPC41 (Melling), or you could buy a plug kit from Summit racing (MPE114R), and have spares. I use the Permatex non-hardening sealer on all core plugs.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...m-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-80017-detail

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mpe-114r

Picture shows brass, but is an all steel kit.

 

[black64]

I have had block fixed with locknstich pins that will fix cracks in blocks and heads The "C" type stich will pull the crack together. The block I had repaired this way was 11 years ago and no leaks. Google locknstich for their website.

 

[sprintgtvgus]

Oh bother.

More bad news.

I ran the car for just 2-3 minutes and it cut out.

I was going to drive it on a ramp to double check the leak and look for any other issues.

I topped up the rad with 1 ltr of antifreeze before starting, as there is a leak from the core plug as described.

So it ran and I pulled up to a barrier, had to get out, and it stopped.

Then would not start, loads of fuel as you can see the vapour.

Most worryingly of all the engine started to get hard to turn over.

Originally I thought that this was just the battery but I got someone to use jump leads, and it was just as difficult.

The battery earth lead was getting very hot and the starter motor itself was moderately warm, but not red hot.

So I'm now worried the engine has got to hot and is tight, or by coincidence the starter has a problem. In vain I threw on a a new starter relay that I had, made no difference.

Is it possible that as it was not up to temp (only ran it for 2-3 minutes) that there was not much coolant in the block? And now the engine got hot and is tight!?

I did rev it a couple of times as you do, but otherwise it ran for literally 2-3 minutes.

The only other thing I have changed recently is to install pertronix ingiter 2.

After I fitted this the timing seemed a bit off so I adjusted the dizzy a little.

When I was trying to start after it cut out I tried turning the dizzy initially as I though maybe timing was out. I do have a timing light, but haven't used it and wasn't sure what sort of timing figures to aim for.

I think it's now flooded too.

Not off to the best start with this car, I've had 2-3 other classics and had better luck

 

[sprintgtvgus]

I'm going to go ahead and replace the core plug. Will also do some more tests on the starting/ charging system.

i have ordered a mini high torque starter anyway, as I'm sure that will spin faster and draw less.

i had 9v going to the coil on cranking, and 12.5 v at the ignition key on at coil.

the battery has had a rough time for sure, will try to drop test that when I get a chance.

 

[hunt2elk]

You should pick up a radiator tester, pump up the system and find out exactly what is leaking before ripping things apart. I also like to check the system with pressure after replacing a core plug just to be certain it sealed. Just spray some soapy water on the suspect areas - alot easier than taking things apart again.