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440 hydraulic lifter styles- please educate me

The Sealed Power HT976 is a “proper” lifter(high thin oil band) for 68-78 Mopar big blocks.

Not for use in small blocks, and it has no pushrod oiling.

Some of the other lifters that are sold for BB mopars are also suitable for SB applications as well as AMC’s.
 
If you do not want to wipe your new cam, avoid buying new Chinesium lifters, made of pure crap-anium. Use any lifters that are 25 yrs or older, factory or aftermarket, & have them re-faced.
 
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I was recently told by Dwayne Porter that Johnson Hylift are the only lifters made in the USA, if that matters to you.
These lifters are discussed and recommended on a Harley website I go to... I used them in my 06 twin cam when I upgraded cams and the hydraulic tensioners....
Working great.....
 
Hughes Engines sells the Hy-Lift Johnson lifters.
They do mention not to use any heavier oil than 10W30... say if running with 20W50...what would likely be the problem?
Is it due to small tolerances the oil flow will be restricted?
 
Hughes Engines sells the Hy-Lift Johnson lifters.
They do mention not to use any heavier oil than 10W30... say if running with 20W50...what would likely be the problem?
Is it due to small tolerances the oil flow will be restricted?
Update: I pulled out all the lifters and 3 others were not spinning. Thoughts on why this happens?
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Looks like you caught it early, could be tons of reasons. I put the cam in dry with thin oil on all the lifters and spin the cam with a speedwrench to make sure they turn in the block, that has worked for me so far. The fact yours did not dig into the lifter makes you wonder if the cam was ground wrong, lifters tight in the block at start up.
 
Update: I pulled out all the lifters and 3 others were not spinning. Thoughts on why this happens?

Did that engine stand still for a long time or something?
Could be lifter bores are gummed up with deposits which stop the lifters from rotating.
It could be ground wrong, or it is a roller lifter cam?
 
I agree. Sticking in the lifter bores, flat tappet face or the cam lobes not tapered properly.

When I put my motor together I lightly oiled the tappets, installed them in the bores, marked each one with a sharpie marker and turned the cam by hand. They all need to rotate and pop up and down freely.
 
Did that engine stand still for a long time or something?
Could be lifter bores are gummed up with deposits which stop the lifters from rotating.
It could be ground wrong, or it is a roller lifter cam?
It did not sit but it took way to long to first fire the engine. I had carb and ignition issues and I felt like it took way to many cranks before I fired it. I know it should fire up and rev quickly for 20-30 minutes. It may have lost all the pre lube by the time I got it cranked.
 
That could have done it. I also put the machined face of 2 lifters together and make sure they rock. When starting make sure you are on top dead center. If the timing chain is dot to dot you are on bottom dead center, both dots on top is TDC, or piston up top and both valves closed. You should also roll it over to 10 degree before TDC, install the distributor, turn key on and rotate the dizzy till number 1 sparks, prefilled a known good carb...it should fire instantly.
 
Cranking the engine is not really the speed that things wear out like that so fast, specially if they are properly coated with the cam lube.
While cranking you also have the oil pump rotating and is at least keeping the oil gallery full and will have some pressure to ensure the cam and lifters are getting oil.
I know it is not ideal but i don't think this would be the root cause.
 
This won’t be very helpful, but my guess is...... determining that lifter rotation was adequate during the assembly process didn’t happen.

When poor/no rotation occurs, it needs to be rectified(whatever the cause is) before going any further.

I have seen similar results when paste/grease type cam/assembly lube is used on the sides of the lifters.

Cam lube on the lifter face...... oil only on the sides.

In two of the pics above, it appears as though there are areas of the lifter face that are untouched........ like they never turned.

You could have the lobe taper of the cam checked.
It should be .0015”-.0020”
If the lobe taper is correct, you can rule that out.

I do that in a lathe and run an indicator across the lobe.
 
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Sonny, did you pressurize the oil pump and rotate the engine over prior to first start attempt? This gets oil up into the galleries and to the bearings
 
Sonny, did you pressurize the oil pump and rotate the engine over prior to first start attempt? This gets oil up into the galleries and to the bearings
Thanks yes I primed it on the stand.
 
Never seen anything like that before ?
Definitely a lubrication problem along with whatever Lifter rotation issue ?

But let's backup here first a bit..... OK ?
In the one Pic I can see Two Oil Bands on the Lifter, one thick band and one thin band above it.
1.) whose Lifters are these ? and I am NOT saying Lifter brand is the problem here.... just curious
and,
2.) What are the V/Spring Pressures being used ?
 
Cranking the engine is not really the speed that things wear out like that so fast, specially if they are properly coated with the cam lube.
While cranking you also have the oil pump rotating and is at least keeping the oil gallery full and will have some pressure to ensure the cam and lifters are getting oil.
I know it is not ideal but i don't think this would be the root cause.
I agree... Embarrased to say I ran a battery dry on my first start with a 440... Recommend you and ONE other there... Too many people and beer was my problem...... Engine still runs great 15 years later....
 
Oh well, i've read quite some negative advise about them, good to hear there is some positive ones as

I like the K6401 / Elgin E1222P myself as well. I still have a few of them in my stash. We had it in a 69 RR with 383 and domed pistons, HP manifolds. That was a really strong (Road) runner.
 
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