Break in question for a 440-512cui Stroker Build with a billet hydraulic roller cam

[Moparjack 489]

If I should use a „ TB Zinc-Plus“ ( like von Lucas Oil) for the engine break in or not?

I know it’s „ normally „ only a must have for break in a flat tappet cam , but in near future my 512 Stroker build are finish , and some friend tell me „don’t forget to use this „ Zinc add“ on the first start ( break in) also by a hydraulic roller cam it’s good to use“ even it is not absolutely necessary ….

Other friend say“ you don’t use them by a hydraulic roller cam break in“ …..

So, I’m not an engine expert, and only would like to know is it a good idea to use it on a hydraulic roller break in too, or better not ??

Just FYI: I not waste money for them, because I still have 3 brand new bottles in my garage, because before my engine run like a 440 with a flat tappet cam and I use it by the break in and also on each oil change I add one bottle to the new oil .

Also what oil you recommend for a engine like this? Minerale / half or only full synthetic ?
We like to try first a 5W- 30 and look the oil pressure are enough , if not we change to 10W-30


Motor have „more good tight „ clearance „ and build with the follow parts :

TFS-61617801-C00 Heads​

With

​

440 Source Stroker Kit 440-512cui
+

COMP Cams Evolution Series Hydraulic Roller Lifters 89211-16​

and a

​

Howards Cams Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts 723445-08​

Plus the

​

Harland Sharp Heavy-Duty Roller Rockers S70016KE​

Thank you in advance and
Best regards Steffen

 

[VANDAN]

Mj, your build sounds quite a bit like my engine. My Builder strongly recommends Valvoline VF-1, 10W-30, and He's had Extensive Experience on a Major US Race Circuit.

 

[70ChargerRT]

I do not like those Comp roller lifters. Should have used Howard’s for your roller lifters but that’s neither here or there. Heres some literature. Even though it’s a roller motor, which is what I have also. I used Driven break in oil. At the current time I have 15 50 in it but I’m making the switch to Conventional 10 40 Driven. I would run 10/40.

 

[Moparjack 489]

Lucas oil tell‘s me today also for first break in ( driven a little around not over 3500 rpm) have to use a break in oil 30wt, after change this oil to a 20/50 Racing zinc oil .

He say also if I drive a 5W/30 the engine will damage very quickly ….

So , seems like many different opinions from people to people .

 

[Frank Mopar]

Bearing clearance dictates oil viscosity.

 

[not so famous bob]

Bearing clearance dictates oil viscosity.

Dont break it in with synthetic ... my rings took forever to seat with it ...

 

[Geoff 2]

^^^^^This. Use mineral oil for break in.

 

[Moparjack 489]

W

^^^^^This. Use mineral oil for break in. Why? You mean Minerale or special „ break in oil , ? Anyone think a oil like the Lucas oil with high zinc is recommend for a roller engine like mine ?

 

[RemCharger]

Yes , mineral oil is conventional oil.
The Lucas with zinc is fine.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Bearing clearance dictates oil viscosity.

When building a big block roller motor you really need to have your clearances matching the oil you need to run with your roller lifters, at least I think it’s good practice to.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The only reason to run lower levels of parts per million of zddp (zinc) in the oil is to prevent catalytic converter damage/early inefficiency. So no catalytic converter no problem with higher zinc in your oil, not sky high, but higher than a new car requires is fine. It protects non pressure lubed surfaces against low lube times (not a lot of splashing going on, like low rpm), by basically building up a layer (microscopic level), then the layer wears in low splash lube times instead of the part. This is why it is critical at start up on a flat tappet to rev engine, need the splash to build up layer on the new parts.

 

[70ChargerRT]

The only reason to run lower levels of parts per million of zddp (zinc) in the oil is to prevent catalytic converter damage/early inefficiency. So no catalytic converter no problem with higher zinc in your oil, not sky high, but higher than a new car requires is fine. It protects non pressure lubed surfaces against low lube times (not a lot of splashing going on, like low rpm), by basically building up a layer (microscopic level), then the layer wears in low splash lube times instead of the part. This is why it is critical at start up on a flat tappet to rev engine, need the splash to build up layer on the new parts.

How much is too much? I mean roller motors aren’t supposed to need it but I still run Driven but Lucas has way more Zinc in their oil.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

1000-1400 ppm any more is overkill. No line in the sand, but no need to displace other additives for more, more, more ZDDP.

 

[Moparjack 489]

So, now I decide and hope it’s okay, to use a real break in oil the BR40 from Driven and after will try a good conventional ( mineral based ) like the HR 5 10W-40 Oil from Driven or the HR6 full synthetic oil from Driven .

What you guys want drive in an engine like mine , Minerale based like the HR5 oil or synthetic oil like the HR6 oil

, any recommendations or experience ?

 

[70ChargerRT]

So, now I decide and hope it’s okay, to use a real break in oil the BR40 from Driven and after will try a good conventional ( mineral based ) like the HR 5 10W-40 Oil from Driven or the HR6 full synthetic oil from Driven .

What you guys want drive in an engine like mine , Minerale based like the HR5 oil or synthetic oil like the HR6 oil

, any recommendations or experience ?

So, now I decide and hope it’s okay, to use a real break in oil the BR40 from Driven and after will try a good conventional ( mineral based ) like the HR 5 10W-40 Oil from Driven or the HR6 full synthetic oil from Driven .

What you guys want drive in an engine like mine , Minerale based like the HR5 oil or synthetic oil like the HR6 oil

, any recommendations or experience ?

I’m going to run HR5 after I put a few Miles on the 15w 50 driven. I wish they’d still make the 10w 40 VR1. I run the 10w30 VR1 In my boys 83 Monte SS

 

[Moparjack 489]

I’m going to run HR5 after I put a few Miles on the 15w 50 driven. I wish they’d still make the 10w 40 VR1. I run the 10w30 VR1 In my boys 83 Monte SS

So, if I understand right , you use the break in oil in 15W50 viscosity, right ? Main’s clearance on mine are about .003“ so I think I’m ok with the 10W-40 break in oil . After running on stand and some miles up to 400 I choose now the HR6 oil .

 

[70ChargerRT]

So, if I understand right , you use the break in oil in 15W50 viscosity, right ? Main’s clearance on mine are about .003“ so I think I’m ok with the 10W-40 break in oil . After running on stand and some miles up to 400 I choose now the HR6 oil .

I’m sorry. I don’t remember what viscosity my driven breakout oil was. My engine builder put it in there and then I changed it out and put conventional 15w50 in it but all it has is tuning time on it. After I read the articles about the 10w40 and roller lifters I’m switching it out and my engine is very very quiet for a roller motor, even with 15w 50 I’ll have to ask him what my clearances was and the breakout oil viscosity.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

The hyd rollers are very temperamental to the oil viscosity. Wouldn’t run anything heavier than driven 10w-40. It’s the centistoke rating of the oil that messes with them. I just built a big block Chevy with a hyd roller for a buddy. I kept the clearances a little tighter in the bottom end than I normally would just so I could run the lighter oil. Driven seems to be a good oil for them as well. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Chris Straub about this.