440 oil pump replacement

[69 R/T]

I just discovered my oil pump housing is leaking on my 69 R/T 440. It's a power steering car, so the oil pump is not the easiest thing to get to. Are there any tips or tricks you might have to do this? Better from the top or the bottom? I do have access to a lift.

 

[WileERobby]

From the bottom. It's an easy job on a BB.

 

[KENTON]

Easy peasy Like said before, from the bottom.

 

[69 R/T]

Thanks. That's what I figured, but the K frame looks like it's kinda in the way. I'm not sure if it has a high volume pump or not but I know those bodies are little bit bigger. A Melling HV is what's going in. Do I need to remove an engine mount bolt and lift the engine a bit, or should it be ok as is?

 

[KENTON]

I did mine without lifting engine HV pump

 

[Bill Monk]

Yep, I had one go out in a dairy queen parking lot and changed it right there. No big deal

 

[beanhead]

Couple of different size socket extensions and a swivel joint will be your friend! As others have said it can be done, I've had mine in and out without having to remove anything. It's a 440 in a '68 with power steering and headers.

 

[69 R/T]

Couple of different size socket extensions and a swivel joint will be your friend! As others have said it can be done, I've had mine in and out without having to remove anything. It's a 440 in a '68 with power steering and headers.

Which gasket sealer would you recommend? I have a can of Permatex copper spray I can use or would you be more inclined to use like one of the Permatex RTV's?

 

[beanhead]

Which gasket sealer would you recommend? I have a can of Permatex copper spray I can use or would you be more inclined to use like one of the Permatex RTV's?

I've always used the regular fel-pro/paper gasket and no silicones or sealers there... I lube the rubber o-ring before inserting the pump. I also pour a little oil on the rotors and spin it by hand a few times, wipe off the gasket surface real good and bolt it on...35 ft-lbs

 

[wyrmrider]

hylomar
anarobic gasket maker
no silicone
good tip on the o rings
you can remove the distributor and spin up your new pump and filter, check your oil pressure
btw I always detail the pump, check the relief valve operation- they come stuck sometimes
and there are some sharp corners that can be rounded off and sometimes the ports do not match the block

 

[69 R/T]

Good to know. I bought a Melling HV unit from Summit. I haven't swapped out one of these things in 35 years.

 

[Bill Monk]

Good to know. I bought a Melling HV unit from Summit. I haven't swapped out one of these things in 35 years.

Easy

 

[wyrmrider]

Melling has good pumps but there are bad apples in every barrel- best to check

 

[69 R/T]

I watched a video that recommended taking apart the new pump to check and clean it, then pack it with petroleum jelly prior to installation. Seems kind of sad you need to check brand new stuff but I guess that's how it is nowadays.

 

[451Mopar]

I watched a video that recommended taking apart the new pump to check and clean it, then pack it with petroleum jelly prior to installation. Seems kind of sad you need to check brand new stuff but I guess that's how it is nowadays.

Good idea to clean the pump. Skip the petroleum jelly and just use oil. I use the Royal Purple max-tuff assembly lube. These georotor pumps prime easy. I think the petroleum jelly is more of a spur gear pump thing?
If changing from standard volume pump to Hi-Volume pump, you should use longer pump bolts. Check that they don't bottom before contacting the pump. I usually have to shorten the 3 of the same length a little bit.
Make sure the pump body that slides into the block had the "O" ring and lube it before installing. A bad seal at the "O" ring will allow air to the suction side of the pump. I just use the thin pump gasket that comes with the pump or a fel-pro one and no sealers.

 

[biomedtechguy]

there are some sharp corners that can be rounded off and sometimes the ports do not match the block

THIS! ⬆️⬆️

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

Just pulled mine off in about 5 minutes. Took longer to Jack the car up and get it on stands.

So the other day I was driving up the road to my parents house, gravel road going slow, and about 300 yards the oil pressure gauge suddenly went to 0, I didn’t shut it off immediately and continued until I got to the driveway and then shut it off. Motor was making all sorts of valve train clatter by then. I know there is a good chance I did further damage but it is what it is at this point.

So today I pulled the oil pump off to check it out. The relief valve doesn’t just slide out when you tip it on its side with the plug removed, should it? It comes out very easy though otherwise, but like I said it doesn’t just fall out.

Only a few other things I can think of if the pump checks out okay. Broken pickup tube or a sheared drive.

 

[Nate S]

Remember the HV pump is thicker. Using the same bolts will give you minimal engagement. Dig through your bolt box for a set about 1/4” longer all around.

 

[BSB67]

If you've removed the oil pump, you would know by now if the drive was sheared.

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

If you've removed the oil pump, you would know by now if the drive was sheared.

True. I guess it would have fallen out the bottom. Good call.

I got the pump cleaned up and can definitely feel the relief valve hit when pushing it in and out with my finger. Here is a picture of where it hits and gets stuck. It’s not much and won’t take much to make it smooth but I don’t know enough about oil pumps to know if this would cause the issue or not?