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440 six pack set up

heres one on ebay already rebuilt, comes with a lot of stuff and he has an original restored air cleaner in another auction, I would offer him $1900 with the air cleaner see what he says..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Do...HIP-/131599084614?hash=item1ea3eaac46&vxp=mtr

I sold a promax restored unit to a local guy for $3200 with out an air cleaner, linkage, fuel line, or brackets, just the carbs, choke, and ci intake, it was all brand new restored, and the intake was gasket matched, really nice looking stuff, BUT I got 20 calls on it after I sold it and I had it listed for $3500, so I would think this guys opening bid minus shipping is fair..
 
This has been a great thread to read. I have a 6 pack on my 69 Runner. Right now I have a charging issue which I have yet to diagnose.... (my honeydew list is long). I am a newbie to a lot of this, especially the 6BBL setup. The motor is running only on the center carb... Am I right that if the motor does not create enough RPM, it wont create enough vaccum to activate the rear and front carbs? The car was running awesome prior to the charging issue, so I am not overly concerned. Just looking for opinions! Cheers boys, and thanks!
 
Yes, both secondaries are vacuum operated, so unless you are really into the RPMs, the secondaries won't open. You'll know when they open. But if you are just casually driving around, center carb only. If you are curious, you could open the secondary diaphragms and see what springs are in there. Factory was the tall yellow springs. Are the rubber vacuum lines in good shape that go from the center carb to the secondaries? And are they equal length?

This has been a great thread to read. I have a 6 pack on my 69 Runner. Right now I have a charging issue which I have yet to diagnose.... (my honeydew list is long). I am a newbie to a lot of this, especially the 6BBL setup. The motor is running only on the center carb... Am I right that if the motor does not create enough RPM, it wont create enough vaccum to activate the rear and front carbs? The car was running awesome prior to the charging issue, so I am not overly concerned. Just looking for opinions! Cheers boys, and thanks!
 
Thanks seventy! The fuel lines on that 6 pack set up for sale on e bay appear to be coming in on the wrong side. Must have been modified.
 
That set on Ebay has Chevy bowls.Also if someone prior to you modified the kill bleed hole on inside the venturi to the diaphragm,it will have an affect on the opening rate.
 
Thanks for the good information here. I have two complete running 6-paks. One on my 65 Satellite with a 426 wedge and another on a custom pickup with a 68 440 in it. The one in the truck is so perfectly behaved and idles very nice but the one in my Satellite has always had a "fat" idle like a bad power valve but I replace those. Gonna give Promax a call. If I could get those carbs truly sorted out I'd love that 6-pak.
Wish me luck

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Great thread. The members that run a 500 cfm center carb, likely modified a Holley 2bbl by cutting off the air cleaner base and adding the 6bbl throttle shaft from an original center carb. That's what was done on mine. I have the Pro Max jet kit in both outboard carbs, and it works great. As mentioned above, you do not need the rear base as set up is typically around 1 1/4 turn out from being fully seated. If it's off, removal is pretty simple.

The other very important part is knowing your own set up and how to diagnose issues if they come up. To me it was worth the extra time for me to do it myself. It didn't likely save any money, but I could take the whole set up apart and back together with my eyes closed.

I run a 496" RB motor with a solid roller cam and 4.10 gears. I drive it everywhere, and it behaves perfectly. It's also gone 11.04 in exactly the same setup with the street tires (M & H Dragmaster) and full, 3" exhaust. Good luck.
6 bbl April 2020.jpg
The hit.jpg
 
I have a 70 V-code Roadrunner.
My 6bbl setup was running fairly well, but I wanted better/best performance and tuning flexibility. Sent them to Promax.
Bought the upper and lower braided fuel lines, rear carb throttle plate w/angled idle mixture screws, outboard jetable metering plates and center carb metering block. Had them rebuild all 3 while they had them and fix 1 loose threads corner on the diaphragm pump "clamshell". They put them on their dyno and they have run very well since, and I have confidence that the carbs with the Promax mods are going to help me get what I can from the Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake.
Money well spent w/Promax
 
Great thread. The members that run a 500 cfm center carb, likely modified a Holley 2bbl by cutting off the air cleaner base and adding the 6bbl throttle shaft from an original center carb. That's what was done on mine. I have the Pro Max jet kit in both outboard carbs, and it works great. As mentioned above, you do not need the rear base as set up is typically around 1 1/4 turn out from being fully seated. If it's off, removal is pretty simple.

The other very important part is knowing your own set up and how to diagnose issues if they come up. To me it was worth the extra time for me to do it myself. It didn't likely save any money, but I could take the whole set up apart and back together with my eyes closed.

I run a 496" RB motor with a solid roller cam and 4.10 gears. I drive it everywhere, and it behaves perfectly. It's also gone 11.04 in exactly the same setup with the street tires (M & H Dragmaster) and full, 3" exhaust. Good luck. View attachment 971995 View attachment 971996
Nice setup, and keep on beatin' on it at the track. Good looking car too.
I agree with most of what you and 68 Hemi GTX say, and pick up good info from you both, BUT I disagree with the contention that the rear carb angled idle mixture screws aren't "worth it" or neccessary. Maybe for the 2 of you, but I certainly am glad to have them, and given the tone of the OP I think he would benefit from the angled idle mixture screws too.
The Promax modded center carb metering block is A MUST for me now and will REALLY shine in the future.
 
Nice setup, and keep on beatin' on it at the track. Good looking car too.
I agree with most of what you and 68 Hemi GTX say, and pick up good info from you both, BUT I disagree with the contention that the rear carb angled idle mixture screws aren't "worth it" or neccessary. Maybe for the 2 of you, but I certainly am glad to have them, and given the tone of the OP I think he would benefit from the angled idle mixture screws too.
The Promax modded center carb metering block is A MUST for me now and will REALLY shine in the future.

he’s got quite the money maker on those center metering blocks. You can buy one from BLP (that’s who makes his) for $49. He gets them cheaper than that as jobber. He adds another $10 dollars worth of hardware and sells them for $150. There’s nothing magical, they just require a bit of carb knowledge to set them up. I’ve been using them in my dominators builds.

8D8EB4EF-9FBC-4216-8B8D-66E1721EA7C8.jpeg
F11AD68C-223E-4408-8FE5-9C145E84DC11.jpeg
 
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he’s got quite the money maker on those center metering blocks. You can buy one from BLP (that’s who makes his) for $49. He gets them cheaper than that as jobber. He adds another $10 dollars worth of hardware and sells them for $150. There’s nothing magical, they just require a bit of carb knowledge to set them up. I’ve been using them in my dominators builds.

View attachment 975767 View attachment 975768
:thumbsup:Thanks man.
:lowdown: your carb knowledge.
I do have the Holley Performance Tuning Carburetors book, but I haven't read it yet.
I'd like to at least know what I'm looking at, so for example I don't know what the 2 rows of vertical tiny brass? fittings are, some flow fuel through and some are solid.
I'm not sure what the "thing" is I pointed the arrow at either.
I NEED TO LEARN because I am going to have to tune my 6bbl to work with the Weiand 6bbl intake I have, and the 541 stroker I'm having built, and in the meantime, I need my 440 to run as good as I can get it.
Tell me what these are and how they impact the tune/running status of the engine?
20200716_104051.jpg
 
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Thanks man.
I do have the Holley Performance Tuning Carburetors book, but I haven't read it yet.
I'd like to at least know what I'm looking at, so for example I know what the 2 rows of vertical tiny brass? fittings are, some flow fuel through and some are solid.
I'm not sure what the "thing" is I pointed the arrow at either.
I NEED TO LEARN because I am going to have to tune my 6bbl to work with the Weiand 6bbl intake I have, and the 541 stroker I'm having built, and in the meantime, I need my 440 to run as good as I can get it.
Tell me what these are and how they impact the tune/running status of the engine?
View attachment 975786

The vertical row of holes are the primary well emulsion channels. This is where liquid fuel and air (from the primary air bleed) start the process of turning liquid to a vapor to feed the booster venturii nozzles to the air stream. The second hole in the screw in boss area, is the Power Valve Channel restriction. This is the actual power valve metering jet. The power valve is just an open/close valve that opens (when the manifold vacuum drops to below the number stamped on the valve) to admit additional fuel to the primary well emulsion channels, parallel to the main metering jets, richening the fuel mix.
Hope this helps....
BOB RENTON
 
I have a 1969 Roadrunner with the 6 pack F/Glass hood. 440 Engine, 4 barrel. I want to convert it to a 440 6 pack. I suppose you would call it a tribute car. So it will be a 1969 440 six pack Roadrunner, although not factory produced. Where would be the best place to buy the parts, and has anyone here done this? Summit Racing has all the parts available for about $2500, including the oval six pack air filter. New Holley carbs, linkage, and Edelbrock intake. The center carb is a 350 CFM, where as the 2 outboard carbs are 325 CFM each. Does this sound like the best way to go? Any thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.View attachment 275154View attachment 275155

Carbs- Direct from HOLLEY IS cheaper, and Faster
 
It looks as though the Pro Max rear baseplate has angled idle screws so you dont have to remove the carb to adjust the idle screws. The center carb has idle screws on the side, and the front ones are easily accessed from the front. I am thinking about getting some used carbs and sending them to Pro Max for re building. Any one here have a set for sale?

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Also Pro Max sells the modified rear base plate for those who want to install one on their rear carb. Plus the jet plates in the outboard carbs are made to receive standard Holley jets for ease of tuning.

Bought that baseplate last week. Do they ever send shipping info? I cant find a phone # for them either
 
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Bought that baseplate lsst week.
Good move! I'm not sure if those idle mixture screws are like the factory outboard screws. If they are, they react a lot more to movement. IOW you don't turn them as much to get results as you do the center carb metering block idle mixture screws.
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When you get the 6bbl dialed in, if the rest of your engine is squared away, I hope you have the same experience I and so many others have had. What a RUSH!
Here's a video from a couple of years ago. All 3 races went the same:
6bbl Win x 3/Gen 3 Hemi Win x ZERO...
 
When you get the 6bbl dialed in, if the rest of your engine is squared away, I hope you have the same experience I and so many others have had. What a RUSH!
Here's a video from a couple of years ago. All 3 races went the same:
6bbl Win x 3/Gen 3 Hemi Win x ZERO...


Damn...Mine ran like that up until July 13th.. Dunno what failed.
 
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