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505 cid intake and carb??? Any suggestions?

raymond73

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Hi i have now a 440 that i have a 440 source 505 stroker kit in w/10.8 static compression. Tf 240 heads.. pwr roller rocker 1.6 r and tf hyd roller cam 243/247 @50... I have now a edelbrock rpm dual plane and a quick fuel 780 hr vacuum on it now and a Mallory optic eye dissy.. but i wonder if i will replace that intake and carb to a old tm7 singel plane edelbrock and a 950 atm dp carp and a fbo ignition distributor???
Do any of you have any suggestions for this?

PXL_20230315_185239492.jpg
 
I wouldn't expect the intake to make a difference but the carb should.
If you want more hp and ok with some torque loss think about the tf intake or a Victor
 
Single plane intake would be best with a Holley 850-950 should be good for the street.
 
I wouldn't expect the intake to make a difference but the carb should.
If you want more hp and ok with some torque loss think about the tf intake or a Victor
Thank but this has too go under the hood and.tje rpm intake with 3" drop bade is bearly under i had to cnc the top of it bit to get some space to the 1/2nitrous plate
 
I wouldn't expect the intake to make a difference but the carb should.
If you want more hp and ok with some torque loss think about the tf intake or a Victor
Iknow but need it to get all this under hood
 
It’ll handle the biggest 4150 you can put on it. If the car has a gear and convertor I’d use the single plane. TM7 will work good. Ran a TM6 on my low deck 512. Went into the 10’s on it a 4000#.
 
Ran a TM7 with an 850 DP back in the day, I'd say your thoughts with a 950 would work very well.
 
A TM7 is a very low height , non computer designed intake. The Performer RPM intake is modern computer designed intake that has well balanced runners and will win in every category

compared to a TM7. My 499 RB has a Victor on it, but I also have a well ported Performer RPM intake that I would have used should I have needed a lower carb pad height.

Tom
 
I agree with the 950 carb, but surprised no one mentioned the Street Dominator. Out performed the rpm in my opinion and lower height.
And I did build a 440 trickflow motor for a buddy and used his RPM against my protests
 
I agree with the 950 carb, but surprised no one mentioned the Street Dominator. Out performed the rpm in my opinion and lower height.
And I did build a 440 trickflow motor for a buddy and used his RPM against my protests
SD is always a solid choice for flat hood if you're ok with tq loss for upper rpm hp gain.
Unless you're in the upper rpms the rpm perf on the engine is probably as good or better
 
The switch from the RPM to the SD, with no other change is probably worth 25 hp for the power range you should be in. As mentioned, it will be a little softer in the lower rpm range.

A 950 would be my choice as well, but they are not all created equal. If you have 3.23 gears and a relatively tight converter, go with a smaller Venturi 950, like 1.390 to 1.405. More gear and converter maybe a 1.420 to 1.450. All in race deal, 1.560 or more.
 
I've had excellent results with Trick Flow's intake and old 850 Demon (been modded to death and wet flowed at 940cfm) on a 3700lb race-weight 68 Satellite with a 505, 10.0 compression, 3.73s and 28" tire and a [email protected] solid cam (727 trans).
Oh, it could take more but that's where I'm at. I drive it everywhere, and in hot weather; coffee and pastries, picking up kids from school etc.
Honesty if you're strictly street and aren't into trying to giddyup on the late model punks too much, I'd stick with the RPM and just go for a better carb. Vacuum carbs have zero place on hot street cars IMO...
I will mention that I have a 6-barrel hood though. We don't know what car and hood you have so that will obviously limit the choices....
 
what RPM will it be ran at ?
is it a dual purpose car or a real drag car ?

modern dual planes aren't that bad up top
a ported open plenum manifold, is more purpose built/designed
to go up more in RPMs

what camshafts limits RPM ranges ?
& what valve springs for ? even pushrods that won't flex !!!
can you even rev/RPM it over the dual plane manifolds capability ?
& still have any control in the valvetrain ?
that is a very limiting factor

lots more factors to deal with

really more information is needed to make the best choice
gears ? torque converter stall ? etc., slicks ?

how are you going to actually use it ?
or more stoplight-to-stoplight ****, like cruising alot ? dual plane
or more track intended usage ? the latter go with a single plane

Run the biggest CFM 4150 carb you can get 950-1,000+ cfm
jet it accordingly, flow from the big carb will certainly help
need to have just as good of an exhaust & headers, 1-7/8" or bigger tube
depending on the purpose it will be used for, 2" will help
if it has a bigger exhaust valve, the header inside diameter of the tube
needs to be as big at least as the exhaust valve diameter is

& a free flowing exhaust too, to expel what that monster breaths in
hell a simple header extension (12"-18") when uncapped,
can help make more power, sometimes than a manifold chosen

you can't flow as much air thru a 750-850cfm with 1-3/4" baseplate/blades
you no doubt will need to do some fine tuning, emulsions & air-bleeds

plenty of guys running 1,050+ dominators on the street too,
(David Vizard's books will help guide you in the right directions)
need to do some research, your due diligence

the Performer RPM has proven 'great' especially with an open spacer 1" on it
raises the RPM range by 500+rpm IIRC, 12+ HP too
I have ran several on my 479cid combos short decks
0.040 over 4.290" bore & 4.15 stroke
but it's Performer RPM for up-to like 6,200 at best,
it will still pull way past that rpm too, but flatten out some, will lose a bit up top
but has lots of bottom-end torque, alot depends on your valvetrain/springs etc....

again depends on what you want & how you intend to to drive it/use it honestly ?
not some pie in the sky dreams stuff
what is the intended use, be honest with yourself ?

if it's a dedicated race combo
then put a damn scoop, or by a fiberglass hood to cut or a six pack hood
(set your org hood aside) if need be on the car & run the taller Victor
ported pref. &/or a Dominator carb in the 4500 series

or even space the k-member down a 1/2 inch
for the extra underhood carb/air-cleaner clearances

I ran TM7 & the lowdeck versions (Low deck TM6 ? can't remember old manifolds)
way back when, later 70's tech
old tech, 2 long runners on each side 2 short runners on each side
(better stuff out there, Hogan or Fowlers off the shelf ported manifolds)
I never really noticed any or enough loss in bottom end,
not much in the 'seat of the pants' anyway
not enough bottom-end loss, to go to a lesser dual-plane manifold,
to limit the top-end RPM, way back then anyway...

good luck
 
Last edited:
Hi and thanks for replay i have a 3.54 in my Dana 60 and 2800 stall and 27 tall tires. I just send a mail to atm carb for a recommendation.. the reason i ask about the tm7 was that i have it and the carb not sitting to high.. i have the rpm on now but not so much rom over the carb with choke tower and air filter...
 
what RPM will it be ran at ?
is it a dual purpose car or a real drag car ?

modern dual planes aren't that bad up top
a ported open plenum manifold, is more purpose built/designed
to go up more in RPMs

what camshafts limits RPM ranges ?
& what valve springs for ? even pushrods that won't flex !!!
can you even rev/RPM it over the dual plane manifolds capability ?
& still have any control in the valvetrain ?
that is a very limiting factor

lots more factors to deal with

really more information is needed to make the best choice
gears ? torque converter stall ? etc., slicks ?

how are you going to actually use it ?
or more stoplight-to-stoplight ****, like cruising alot ? dual plane
or more track intended usage ? the latter go with a single plane

Run the biggest CFM 4150 carb you can get 950-1,000+ cfm
jet it accordingly, flow from the big carb will certainly help
need to have just as good of an exhaust & headers, 1-7/8" or bigger tube
depending on the purpose it will be used for, 2" will help
if it has a bigger exhaust valve, the header inside diameter of the tube
needs to be as big at least as the exhaust valve diameter is

& a free flowing exhaust too, to expel what that monster breaths in
hell a simple header extension (12"-18") when uncapped,
can help make more power, sometimes than a manifold chosen

you can't flow as much air thru a 750-850cfm with 1-3/4" baseplate/blades
you no doubt will need to do some fine tuning, emulsions & air-bleeds

plenty of guys running 1,050+ dominators on the street too,
(David Vizard's books will help guide you in the right directions)
need to do some research, your due diligence

the Performer RPM has proven 'great' especially with an open spacer 1" on it
raises the RPM range by 500+rpm IIRC, 12+ HP too
I have ran several on my 479cid combos short decks
0.040 over 4.290" bore & 4.15 stroke
but it's Performer RPM for up-to like 6,200 at best,
it will still pull way past that rpm too, but flatten out some, will lose a bit up top
but has lots of bottom-end torque, alot depends on your valvetrain/springs etc....

again depends on what you want & how you intend to to drive it/use it honestly ?
not some pie in the sky dreams stuff
what is the intended use, be honest with yourself ?

if it's a dedicated race combo
then put a damn scoop, or by a fiberglass hood to cut or a six pack hood
(set your org hood aside) if need be on the car & run the taller Victor
ported pref. &/or a Dominator carb in the 4500 series

or even space the k-member down a 1/2 inch
for the extra underhood carb/air-cleaner clearances

I ran TM7 & the lowdeck versions (Low deck TM6 ? can't remember old manifolds)
way back when, later 70's tech
old tech, 2 long runners on each side 2 short runners on each side
(better stuff out there, Hogan or Fowlers off the shelf ported manifolds)
I never really noticed any or enough loss in bottom end,
not much in the 'seat of the pants' anyway
not enough bottom-end loss, to go to a lesser dual-plane manifold,
to limit the top-end RPM, way back then anyway...

good luck
Thank you for your replay very well explained it just a fun street car.. so like you saying i think i will stick to my rpm intake i have 2" tti headers on it and 3" full exhaust with ultraflow donymax on it . Its a 727 with a tf 3 kit and a 2800stall and 3.54 Dana with 27" street tires.. i have used pro system carbs before but more race than street.. so i have sendt a mail to atm carb and ask for a recommendation.. but like you say bigger is better thanks again
 
I have a low deck 512 in a 3860 lb streetcar with 3.91 and converter that stall 4800. I have try a couple different carb/intake.

Engine has 10.3:1 and TF 240 heads and a SFT cam dur is [email protected]

First out I try a Holley SD intake and a Holley 850 DP (4781), second was a M1 S/P with a Pro Form 850 DP and now I have a T/F track heat intake with a Pro Form 1050 AN carb (4150)
All intake have been running a 1" open spacer.

Street driven the Pro Form 850 is excellent, but on the track when you looking for max performance is to small.
Best bang for the buck is probably the Holley intake and Holley 850 DP if you could find a good used set up.

M1 and T/F intake with 1050 cfm carb hade same performance on the track.
 
I have a low deck 512 in a 3860 lb streetcar with 3.91 and converter that stall 4800. I have try a couple different carb/intake.

Engine has 10.3:1 and TF 240 heads and a SFT cam dur is [email protected]

First out I try a Holley SD intake and a Holley 850 DP (4781), second was a M1 S/P with a Pro Form 850 DP and now I have a T/F track heat intake with a Pro Form 1050 AN carb (4150)
All intake have been running a 1" open spacer.

Street driven the Pro Form 850 is excellent, but on the track when you looking for max performance is to small.
Best bang for the buck is probably the Holley intake and Holley 850 DP if you could find a good used set up.

M1 and T/F intake with 1050 cfm carb hade same performance on the track.
That’s really good info. Can you share the track data for the three different set-ups?

Do you know the throttle bore and venturi size on the 850 Pro Form?

Thanks
 
I have a low deck 512 in a 3860 lb streetcar with 3.91 and converter that stall 4800. I have try a couple different carb/intake.

Engine has 10.3:1 and TF 240 heads and a SFT cam dur is [email protected]

First out I try a Holley SD intake and a Holley 850 DP (4781), second was a M1 S/P with a Pro Form 850 DP and now I have a T/F track heat intake with a Pro Form 1050 AN carb (4150)
All intake have been running a 1" open spacer.

Street driven the Pro Form 850 is excellent, but on the track when you looking for max performance is to small.
Best bang for the buck is probably the Holley intake and Holley 850 DP if you could find a good used set up.

M1 and T/F intake with 1050 cfm carb hade same performance on the track.
Thank you for your replay and your info we need this information about mopars build the 1969 charger i had and built a 505 allso with tf 240 and a custom bullet roller... And a holley hp efi with a f1 procharger on it... I got all info on this page but had alot problems with the efi and holley efi parts so now its all analog 505 in my cuda i know this is a b-body site but much more information here
 
With 3.54’s and a 2800 converter I’d say the emphasis is on the street aspect of things.
Try the TM7 if you want…….. my gut feeling is the engine will lose a bit of “snap”.

For a carb I’d look at something with a 1.40-1.45 venturi and a 1.75 throttle bore.
 
I had a Performer RPM with a 1050 Proform annular carb and it ran fine. I had a Victor 440 sitting on the shelf and swapped it for the RPM and what a difference! It cleared up a low-mid range stumble I had. I thought it would kill my low range torque but it pulls just as hard as the RPM down low.
I have a flat hood and it fits with a drop base filter and 3" filter element.
 
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