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62 Dart Wagon pushbutton transmission question

dsd1967

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Posting this for a friend who is not a mopar guy.....in fact this is his only mopar that his father in law gave him. He has a 62 dart wagon with a transplanted old school 392 hemi and pushbutton auto. There's been a persistent transmission leak and he thinks it's coming from the area pictured. I've never dealt with pushbutton transmissions....but due to the location he has pictured....I would assume that is something to do with the parking brake. He thinks the leak is coming from the cross bolt area. Does anyone know what seals are involved with this housing and mechanism...or does anyone have an exploded veiw from a FSM that I could share with him.

I know...this thread is worthless without pictures....I'll see if I can get a few shots of the car.

transmission.jpg
 
There is a o-ring on the cable going in, and a gasket on the housing and that threaded plug in the bottom, that's it... BUT.. there is a rear band rod that goes into the case just in front of that (front to back) which is famous for leaking.. The park cable can also leak where the cable sheath meets the part that slides into the trans. If that is a pic of his, i would clean it and start watching for where it leaks... i could also use a picture of the bolt that went through the crossmember into the trans.
 
This is a thread bout the rod leak
 
Thanks icetech. I had that rod leak on my 69 dart....forgot all about that. If I recall, I was able to repair that without dropping the transmission. I'll let him know.
 
Thanks icetech. I had that rod leak on my 69 dart....forgot all about that. If I recall, I was able to repair that without dropping the transmission. I'll let him know.
yeah it's a pain.. i did a new o-ring+RTV on mine... no messing around :)
 
Icetech. I'll have him shoot a couple of pictures of the underside of the car. It's about an hour away at his lake house so new pictures won't be available until next weekend at the earliest. If there are any other underbody pictures you want to see, let me know and I'll ask.

Here are a few pictures of the 62 he had on hand. You can catch glimpses of his 63 split window and 72 C10 shortbed. Not shown, he also has a 57 vette, a 47 plymouth, a 66 chevelle and a 72 blazer 2wd beach cruiser, a harly hummer and a wizzer motorized bike. With exception of the 47 plymouth....all are as nice or nicer than the 62 wagon.

IMG_4779.JPG


IMG_4780.JPG


IMG_4781.JPG


IMG_4782.JPG
 
Here's the rear band shaft that was mentioned.
20230929_162348 (1).jpg


I'd get it real clean with parts cleaner then puff some baby powder all over everything and watch where it's coming from. Might save you more work if it's only the gasket or cable o-ring. Still involved to remove the cable and housing. There's a trick to removing everything and opon reassembly the cable needs to be adjusted. I'll get back on here later with details. Factory Service Manual shows everything.
 
cool car, just interested in the trans crossmember bolt that goes into the trans.. if that was a pic of his trans above it's very uncommon and i can't even find a pic of the stock bolt and i'm just curious cause i have the same setup but it's not right..
 
Here's the rear band shaft that was mentioned.
View attachment 1651348

I'd get it real clean with parts cleaner then puff some baby powder all over everything and watch where it's coming from. Might save you more work if it's only the gasket or cable o-ring. Still involved to remove the cable and housing. There's a trick to removing everything and opon reassembly the cable needs to be adjusted. I'll get back on here later with details. Factory Service Manual shows everything.

Thanks kryslerkid....your picture is helpful in starting to show how things go together in that assembly. On the lower housing (the first picture I showed) there is a cross bolt in the lower housing right where the cable comes in. What does that do and does it have to be removed before removing the lower housing? Where you have the screwdriver in this picture, is that the cable end, or does the cable attach to the piece your screwdriver is holding?

Dave
 
If you mean the bolt that goes across the cable, you loosen the nut a few threads and tap it back then the cable will pull out (you have to disconnect it inside that housing also.., you take out that small pipe plug in the bottom of the housing and push up on a spring inside as you gently pull the cable back)

That bolt is not easy to find, a guy on the forum recently made one on a lathe.. it's tapered inside and when you tighten that nut it holds the cable in place..
 
Thanks icetech. How do you reinstall the cable back onto the spring thing that you pushed up to take it apart?
 
Thanks icetech. How do you reinstall the cable back onto the spring thing that you pushed up to take it apart?
You just slide the cable back in and it clicks in place.. it's actually a really good design once you work on it and see it in person :)
Cable end looks like this.
1713814851369.jpeg


And receiver looks like this.. You can't see it in the pic but there is like a slot half way through the receiver and the spring goes through that slot so when you push the end in it just clicks right in place..
1713814862238.jpeg



When you take it apart you push on that flat part of the spring which releases the cable end.
 
BTW.. if you take that park housing/tailshaft off the trans to get to that band pivot rod, the 9/16 bolt that goes through the housing, don't pull it all the way out.. i mean you can but the pawl/spring will come out also and just gotta put it back together.. something to watch for is all, can see it in a pic up in the thread
 
On the lower housing (the first picture I showed) there is a cross bolt in the lower housing right where the cable comes in. What does that do and does it have to be removed before removing the lower housing?

That's the clamp bolt that holds the cable in place. You just loosen the nut but not all the way. Gently tap it at the threaded end to move it. You'll feel the cable loosen up. You don't remove it. Also when reinstalling the cable you don't want to over tighten it. It will snap. I believe it's only torqued to 10 inch lbs.
20230928_154719.jpg
 
I didn't know it's only 10in/lb.... glad i didn't break mine
 
I didn't know it's only 10in/lb.... glad i didn't break mine

I'd have to check the FMS again but I didn't even torque mine that much. I was feeling the pucker factor kicking in and chickened out.

Edit...
I checked and it's 10 inch lbs. The reason I had to remove my park housing is because I broke the clamp bolt making the park cable adjustment. It only comes out one way and the pan rail is in the way. So removal of the housing is necessary. I got another bolt from a gracious member on here and replaced it. I tried to torque it to 10 inch lbs but I couldn't get my torque wrench to click. I checked it on another bolt and the wrench didn't take that much effort for it to click. Put it back on the clamp bolt and it just seemed like it was stretching. It's tight and that's all I'm doing with it. I wasn't about to go through removing the housing again.
 
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Many thanks guys ! It never ceases to amaze me on the depth of knowledge on this website.

Icetech, I will have him get you that bolt picture....but he said he will not be at the lake this weekend due to work travel. He will get it as soon as possible.

Dave
 
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