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62 Rear End Project

D

DartProject62

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Good Afternoon Everyone!

This forum is such an incredible community! Thank you all for all the help so far, you have made my project so much more manageable!

I am seeking help today with my rear end (of my car). I am very new to restoring cars and dont want to make a mistake that I cant undo. I have begun by removing the rear end of my 1962 Dodge Dart. I had some difficulties removing the rear end, to include snapped bolts (shock absorbers, hanger bolts and a few others). I was not able to removed the single bolt on the leaf spring and had to remove the hanger instead. I also had a tough time with the shackles on the back. After getting the rear end off, I wanted to pick your brains and make sure that my proposed actions are the correct actions. Would you all be willing to
provide some feedback and let me know if I am gonna do something stupid or if there is a better way of going about it? I have seven areas that I would like help with, Hangers,Leaf Spring Bolts,Leaf Spring Repair, Leaf Spring Mounting Plate Ubolts, Leaf Spring Mounting Plate Shock Absorber, Cleaning Diff, Diff Seals (sorry if my terminology is incorrect, very new at this all)

Car: 1962 Dodge Dart 4dr
Rear End: I believe it is a 8 3/4 rear end, 741 #2070741


#1: Hangers - I had to remove the hangers because the bolt on the leaf spring was stuck and I was unable to get it off. To clean and replace the hangers is there
anything I need to do beyond hitting it with a wire brush to bare steel and repainting? Is there anything to look out for before placing back on the vehicle?
Currently my plan is to just clean, paint and place back on the vehicle. Right now I dont think there is anything need to buy any replacement parts. Thanks much!

#2: Leaf Spring Bolts - I was unable to remove the leaf spring bolts. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing these bolts? Would it be OK to get
a cutting wheel and replace the bolts all together? I am afraid to cut the bolts and damage the leaf springs. (If the leaf springs have to be replaced this is a non issue)
I can get the bolts for about $20 online. Should I cut the bolts off or try to find a different way of removing them?

#3: Leaf Spring Repair/Repair - The leaf springs look like they have been on the car since the factory. I am not sure if there is a way to keep using them or if
they must be replaced. If they do have to be replaced, is there things to avoid? Are there things to keep in mind when finding replacements?

#4: Leaf Spring Mounting Plate Ubolts - The UBolts on the leaf spring mounting plate are not budging. I think I broke a ratchet trying to get one off. I
would like to go get a cutting wheel and take off the UBolts. I am not sure if they can be replaced easily. Could I replace these bolts with Ubolts from the hardware stor?
Or do these need to be specialized bolts specifically for the mount?

#5: Leaf Spring Mounting Plate Shock Absorber Post - I snapped this bolt off when trying to remove the shock absorbers. I found a stud replacement (thanks to you guys!!! BIG HELP!!!)
that I will be ordering and replacing. My question is on the shock absorbers, is there a specific one to replace them with? Is there a reason to upgrade, will it make a difference.

#6: Cleaning - The rear end is gosh awful dirty. There is oil leakage and just oil dirt and grime from the last 60 years on it. My plan is just to hit it with a wire
brush and take it down to bare metal and repaint. Is this wrong? Is there a better way to clean the dif? Should I consider some type of acid bath? Also,
would it be worth my time (and money) to take the diff to a shop to have it checked out?

#7: Seal - What seals should I replace when restoring the rear end? I know I will need one on the pumpkin, but shouldnt there be some on the wheels as well?

Thank you all so much for taking the time to read my post. I am very new at this and am enjoying this immensly! Your help has really made it much easier! If anyone
has any helpful tips or suggestions they would be much appriciated!

IMG_3004.jpg IMG_3007.jpg IMG_2993.jpg
 
#1 Hangers,Clean 'um up and paint. Reuse
#2 Best bet cut off the U bolts. They don't cost much
#3 Check out ESPO for new springs,Prices are good call 'um tell them what you have and what they recomend
#4 Replace 'um Check with the local Auto Parts or order them from ESPO. May be easier to get everything from one place.
#5 Good 'ol Monroe Shocks are what I use. Sounds like this is a cool driver,and you won't need much. Unless you like to spend money and the sky is the limit.
#6 I used GOOD oven cleaner, the dollar store stuff is a waste of time.Paint away !
#7 Replace the pinion seal, check the axle seals. If they aren"t leaking leave them alone. the pre 1965 8 3/4 with the nut on the axle end can be a real bear.
Have fun and there are plenty of people on this site willing to help. You went about asking the questions in a excellent way .
 
Darter6 said:
#2 Best bet cut off the U bolts. They don't cost much
Click to expand...

Use a cutting wheel to get most of the way through the bolts, so you dont risk cutting into the springs, then give 'em a twist with the wrench and they'll snap right off.
 
Pre '65 single bolt 8 3/4 rears are easiest to disassemble while still mounted in the car. Removing the axles can be a real bear and a special axle puller is required to get that job done. It may require heat and a big sledge hammer as well. Other than that.. the guidance you've been given is appropriate.

Here's a link to a break mod that will make it easy to preform maintenance on the rear brakes as well as help you understand what it takes to remove the axles.
http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
 
Last edited:
Cut the u-bolts at the top. One cut right in the center and the bolts will come right out. Cutting wheel or a hacksaw with a good blade. U-bolts cut quite easily.
 
DP62, Just a few photos for you from a really crusty 63 8 3/4.
Using oven cleaner,Scrape as much of the heavy stuff off before spraying.
IMG_2202.jpg
IMG_2205.jpg
IMG_2180.jpg
IMG_2202.jpgSorry I thought I had some after shots,guess not.
 
Last edited:
All good advice above. Cut all the bolts/u-bolts, buy some new springs & bushings and re-install. I might be tempted to leave the seals alone if they don't look like they're leaking ????? Your call on that one. It will be very heavy/awkward, but you might want to get out all the old gear lube you can and replace it with new stuff. The only way out is the large square plug on the side of the center section. On second thought.....just have a Jiffy Lube suck out the old gear lube and refill with new after it's all done.
 
I bought a 63 rear with the intention of rebuilding and installing in my 64 because it is narrower than the 70 rear I'm currently using.
Because it is out of the car, the axles were a pain to remove. I made this simple box to use with my slide hammer and made it large enough to use a ratchet for the axle nut. It worked well but the axles were stuck in there pretty good. Have to secure the housing from moving and took quite a few wraps. In the end I had to heat up the housing around the retainer to free one of the sides.

20190627_141350.jpg 20190630_093704.jpg
 
Glenwood said:
I bought a 63 rear with the intention of rebuilding and installing in my 64 because it is narrower than the 70 rear I'm currently using.
Because it is out of the car, the axles were a pain to remove. I made this simple box to use with my slide hammer and made it large enough to use a ratchet for the axle nut. It worked well but the axles were stuck in there pretty good. Have to secure the housing from moving and took quite a few wraps. In the end I had to heat up the housing around the retainer to free one of the sides.

View attachment 821219 View attachment 821220
Click to expand...

I made the exact same piece two years ago! :thumbsup:
 
Hello Everyone!

Thank you all so much for the help! Although it has been taking me longer than I wanted to get moving on this project, I have begun!

I started by cleaning everything I took off. I have included pictures of the final result. I sandblasted the rear end, the hangers, the leaf spring mounts, and the fuel tank strap. All seem to be in great shape and ready to be painted.

I took your guys' advice and contacted ESPO for rear springs. They were able to get everything I need. All of that is sitting ready to be installed.

I had a few questions regarding the rear end. A few people had mentioned that it is easier to work on the rear end if it is still on the car. My plan right now is to paint it and put it back on. Once it is on I want to do the seals, change the fluid and convert to disc brakes.

Is there anything I should be cognizant of while reassembling the rear end? Things that should be painted, things that shouldnt be? Things to watch out for?

Thank you guys so much for all your help! It has made this project so much easier and a lot more fun!

Cody

IMG_3426.jpg IMG_3427.jpg IMG_3428.jpg IMG_3430.jpg
 
DartProject62 said:
I had a few questions regarding the rear end. A few people had mentioned that it is easier to work on the rear end if it is still on the car. My plan right now is to paint it and put it back on. Once it is on I want to do the seals
Click to expand...

When doing the pinion seal while the rear is in the car might be more difficult than when it's out. If you have a hoist it might be easier. If you're on jack stands, it's a little cramped under there for breaking and having to re torque the nut to 240 ft lbs.
20180418_214330.jpg
20180418_195247.jpg


Torquing to 240 ft lbs I acually broke my torque wrench right when it clicked. I was outside the car standing on it. Notice the piece of angle iron I made to bolt to the yoke.
20180423_125440.jpg


Used a puller to remove the yoke.
20180418_204143.jpg


I didn't have any luck finding a good seal locally at any of the parts houses. All they had were the leather ones or a single lip rubber seal. I bought the best one, two row lip, from Dr. Diff.
20180423_112836.jpg


When installing the seal, use a thin film of sealer inside the housing and also some sealer on the splines. The lube has been known to walk out through the splines.
Screenshot_20191006-212827.jpg


I also polished up the yoke's seal surface. Scotch brite and 600
20180418_221617.jpg
 
Last edited:
I bought a 3/4 drive socket for my 3/4 breaker bar because 1/2 BB would have broke. Needed 3' pipe on 3/4 BB to loosen. I'd buy the pinion seal from dr diff, you may not get the right one in a parts store. To hold the yoke used a 30" pipe wrench.
 
If you have grove in the yoke where the seal rides there's a $15 or so fix for that, speedi-sleeve.
 
DartProject62 said:
Hello Everyone!

Thank you all so much for the help! Although it has been taking me longer than I wanted to get moving on this project, I have begun!

I started by cleaning everything I took off. I have included pictures of the final result. I sandblasted the rear end, the hangers, the leaf spring mounts, and the fuel tank strap. All seem to be in great shape and ready to be painted.

I took your guys' advice and contacted ESPO for rear springs. They were able to get everything I need. All of that is sitting ready to be installed.

I had a few questions regarding the rear end. A few people had mentioned that it is easier to work on the rear end if it is still on the car. My plan right now is to paint it and put it back on. Once it is on I want to do the seals, change the fluid and convert to disc brakes.

Is there anything I should be cognizant of while reassembling the rear end? Things that should be painted, things that shouldnt be? Things to watch out for?

Thank you guys so much for all your help! It has made this project so much easier and a lot more fun!

Cody

View attachment 846193 View attachment 846194 View attachment 846195 View attachment 846196
Click to expand...
When I swapped out my '63 Fury rear for a '65 Coronet after thorough cleaning applied POR 15 rust preventative paint a low gloss black. It's held up great after 15 + years. There was a pre-paint prep I followed, a solution that I think was a POR product as well.
 
Oh my goodness! Thank you all so much!

I think I will try to get the pinion seal replaced before I throw it back on.

Thank you guys! Having such great help makes this project a lot more enjoyable!
 
Hey Everyone,

I have began to reassemble and mock up my rear end. When I removed the hangers there were 8x of the bolts shown below. I havent been able to find replacements or even a name of what these bolts may be called... Any guess as to names or replacements?

Thanks much guys!

IMG_3442.jpg
 
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