65 Coronet Big Block Swap

[landers62]

Hey all, I’m going to be bringing home a 1965 Coronet 440 in a few weeks. It’s currently a 318/727 column shift. After I fix the cowl, floor, and rear quarters, I’d like to put a big block in it. I have a Poly in my 66 Fury, so I already know how the performance side of them is. My question is what are my options for transmissions. IIRC the 65 is one year trans with newer u-joint and cable shift. If I were to put a 66+ 383/727 in, is it an easy bolt in and then work out the shift linkages? For now it runs and drives so I’m not in a huge hurry just looking ahead.

 

[Dave6T4]

A 360 small block will bolt to your existing transmission. Lots of guys are building 408 strokers out of these engines. The weak point of the 318 Poly 727, is that it only has 3 clutch discs in each of the front and rear drums, so, it might not be up to drastic power upgrade. The '65 727 also has the small input shaft, so, converter choices will be limited. If you are considering a Big Block upgrade, it will not bolt to your 727. A proper '65 B.B. 727 can be sourced from any 1965 Chrysler. It will have cable shift and the rear slip joint. Your Coronet looks like a nice project car. I see someone has already upgraded to dual circuit master cylinder.

 

[lewtot184]

You will need big block motor mount brackets.

 

[dvw]

If you go with a late model trans the trans mount and I believe trans crossmember as well (or modify to fit). The 65 trans being a 65 has the proper tailshaft and tail shaft housing. Using any 62-65 BB case will connect you up to a big block. So you can use the less desirable 62-64 flange style case with you rear shaft and housing. The converter and drum issues are easily fixed by using later internals from any 727, 67-70 input shaft with your current drums will fit. The 66 trans is an oddball. Easy 19 spline with a later style case. Also needed is the reaction shaft support (rear half of the pump). Most rear drums are 4 friction. I have a ton of 67-70 4 plate front drums if you need one free for the cost of shipping. You could also upgrade to the wide bushing front drum and reaction shaft supports from 71-78, or non lock up 79 and newer. Just need to use the drum, reaction shaft support, and input shaft from the same year. If your not going to a full manual valve body the current kickdown linkage can be modded to work. If using an automatic shift valve body you must retain the rear pump function. With a full manual valve body the linkage and pump gears can be eliminated. The K frame for BB and Small block are the same. Be aware that the fan to radiator clearnce is very tight.
Doug

 

[ckessel]

What shifter is in the car? Console, push button, column?

 

[landers62]

If you go with a late model trans the trans mount and I believe trans crossmember as well (or modify to fit). The 65 trans being a 65 has the proper tailshaft and tail shaft housing. Using any 62-65 BB case will connect you up to a big block. So you can use the less desirable 62-64 flange style case with you rear shaft and housing. The converter and drum issues are easily fixed by using later internals from any 727, 67-70 input shaft with your current drums will fit. The 66 trans is an oddball. Easy 19 spline with a later style case. Also needed is the reaction shaft support (rear half of the pump). Most rear drums are 4 friction. I have a ton of 67-70 4 plate front drums if you need one free for the cost of shipping. You could also upgrade to the wide bushing front drum and reaction shaft supports from 71-78, or non lock up 79 and newer. Just need to use the drum, reaction shaft support, and input shaft from the same year. If your not going to a full manual valve body the current kickdown linkage can be modded to work. If using an automatic shift valve body you must retain the rear pump function. With a full manual valve body the linkage and pump gears can be eliminated. The K frame for BB and Small block are the same. Be aware that the fan to radiator clearnce is very tight.
Doug

I’m hoping to be able to modify a 67 and up trans in. I have a local junkyard with a 64 Newport and a few late 60s BB C-Bodies. They will all need rebuilt so I will definitely look into the upgrades. Thank you.

 

[landers62]

What shifter is in the car? Console, push button, column?

Column

 

[landers62]

A 360 small block will bolt to your existing transmission. Lots of guys are building 408 strokers out of these engines. The weak point of the 318 Poly 727, is that it only has 3 clutch discs in each of the front and rear drums, so, it might not be up to drastic power upgrade. The '65 727 also has the small input shaft, so, converter choices will be limited. If you are considering a Big Block upgrade, it will not bolt to your 727. A proper '65 B.B. 727 can be sourced from any 1965 Chrysler. It will have cable shift and the rear slip joint. Your Coronet looks like a nice project car. I see someone has already upgraded to dual circuit master cylinder.

I’m hoping to find a 65 for an easier bolt in but if not I’ll try to adapt a later one in for the sake of converter and overall strength. The guy did put a dual master on and go over the brakes but has too many other projects to get this one done. I wanted to put a big block in my Fury but weighed my options and decided to keep it original

 

[ckessel]

If it's a column shift, that should enable you to use a 66- trans. Look around and you may find a engine/trans package deal. Be even better if the engine has the matching pullies, brackets etc for the accessory drives. Then scare up the engine mount brackets needed for the 65.

 

[Dave6T4]

If it's a column shift, that should enable you to use a 66- trans. Look around and you may find a engine/trans package deal. Be even better if the engine has the matching pullies, brackets etc for the accessory drives. Then scare up the engine mount brackets needed for the 65.

I think Imperial Motors sells a conversion kit to use the '65 cables to shift a newer linkage-shifted transmission. To make this work, you have to swap the heavy rooster comb ball detent spring in the linkage-shifted valve body to the lighter spring from the cable-shifted VB. That means the VB's have to come out. It is a cable vs. linkage thing. It also requires a modified trans crossmember, due to different location of newer mount.

 

[Dave6T4]

If you go with a late model trans the trans mount and I believe trans crossmember as well (or modify to fit). The 65 trans being a 65 has the proper tailshaft and tail shaft housing. Using any 62-65 BB case will connect you up to a big block. So you can use the less desirable 62-64 flange style case with you rear shaft and housing. The converter and drum issues are easily fixed by using later internals from any 727, 67-70 input shaft with your current drums will fit. The 66 trans is an oddball. Easy 19 spline with a later style case. Also needed is the reaction shaft support (rear half of the pump). Most rear drums are 4 friction. I have a ton of 67-70 4 plate front drums if you need one free for the cost of shipping. You could also upgrade to the wide bushing front drum and reaction shaft supports from 71-78, or non lock up 79 and newer. Just need to use the drum, reaction shaft support, and input shaft from the same year. If your not going to a full manual valve body the current kickdown linkage can be modded to work. If using an automatic shift valve body you must retain the rear pump function. With a full manual valve body the linkage and pump gears can be eliminated. The K frame for BB and Small block are the same. Be aware that the fan to radiator clearnce is very tight.
Doug

Hey, @dvw! I tried to DM you, regarding 1965 727, but your mail box is full.
Dave

 

[RemCharger]

When converting my 64 Dodge poly/ pushbutton, I went straight to a new style trans with cable aftermarket shifter. Made the trans cross member fit.
Just not a fan of the issues that go along with the factory cable system.

 

[landers62]

I think Imperial Motors sells a conversion kit to use the '65 cables to shift a newer linkage-shifted transmission. To make this work, you have to swap the heavy rooster comb ball detent spring in the linkage-shifted valve body to the lighter spring from the cable-shifted VB. That means the VB's have to come out. It is a cable vs. linkage thing. It also requires a modified trans crossmember, due to different location of newer mount.

This is just what I was looking for. Thank you.

 

[landers62]

If it's a column shift, that should enable you to use a 66- trans. Look around and you may find a engine/trans package deal. Be even better if the engine has the matching pullies, brackets etc for the accessory drives. Then scare up the engine mount brackets needed for the 65.

Now if it would make a whole ton of difference there’s a guy near me with a 64-65 console out of a Fury. How much different would it be converting a column to a newer trans vs converting to console with a newer trans?

 

[jimbosride]

Just so you know. No 65 Coronet 440 came with a console.

But you can do as you like

 

[Dave6T4]

Now if it would make a whole ton of difference there’s a guy near me with a 64-65 console out of a Fury. How much different would it be converting a column to a newer trans vs converting to console with a newer trans?

That would likely be the simplest and cheapest way, with an aftermarket floor mounted shifter like a Hurst. They use a cable to shift the later style transmission lever. You could keep your bench seat, and not need a console. Then, you could replace your steering column with one out of a console car, or a '64 push button car to get rid of all the column shift jazz.

 

[landers62]

Just so you know. No 65 Coronet 440 came with a console.

But you can do as you like

Yes I know, I’m thinking of a floor mounted shifter and then maybe a console down the road for the main reason of needing a set of seats.

 

[ckessel]

Yes I know, I’m thinking of a floor mounted shifter and then maybe a console down the road for the main reason of needing a set of seats.

So, the car is a bench seat ride currently? My 65 500 started out with a bench. Then my friend put buckets in with the console. However, since it's a bench car not bucket, there were no reinforcement units on the back of the floor. Over time the floor developed tears/cracks in the sheetmetal because of the change. I took care of that while putting in frame connectors. I cut out half of the floor and did my own panels.

 

[landers62]

That would likely be the simplest and cheapest way, with an aftermarket floor mounted shifter like a Hurst. They use a cable to shift the later style transmission lever. You could keep your bench seat, and not need a console. Then, you could replace your steering column with one out of a console car, or a '64 push button car to get rid of all the column shift jazz.

I know of a column out of a push button that’s the same color so that’s working in my favor. I think I’m going to head this route with a floor shift. Thanks for the info!

 

[landers62]

So, the car is a bench seat ride currently? My 65 500 started out with a bench. Then my friend put buckets in with the console. However, since it's a bench car not bucket, there were no reinforcement units on the back of the floor. Over time the floor developed tears/cracks in the sheetmetal because of the change. I took care of that while putting in frame connectors. I cut out half of the floor and did my own panels.

Yes, it’s currently a column with split bench. It needs a front drivers side floor pan so I’ll pull the seat out to do that. I’ve heard about the reinforcements before and will definitely put them in if I go the bucket seat route. Hopefully I’ll figure out my plans before laying down the carpet.