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This is just my opinion, nothing more. It’s obvious that a good deal of money was spent on this car to make it look like an A-990 factory super stock racer - which it is not. The old guy up north said it had never been raced - he may not have raced it, but that is what it looks set up to do and I would guess that it has been ran, maybe not a lot, but some. For what I paid for my ‘65 and what I’ve seen out there for sale, this one appears to be over-priced by several thousand unless you don’t want to do any work on it - providing the drivetrain is solid - and just want to get in it and drive off, paying a premium for that. As far as how much it cost to build something similar, we all know if you add up parts and labor on these cars, selling them is usually a losing proposition to one extent or another. You can buy a good car to start with and build it yourself. The main benefit of this is you know how it is put together and who did it. I lucked out on mine - it had been raced and in the same family for years. They knew what they were doing and built a very strong and streetable vehicle. I’ve made a few tweaks to it to make it ‘my’ car but nothing major save for a reverse band issue. Good luck whatever your decision is. I think the ‘65’s are one of the best years for Dodge and hope you enjoy yours as I do mine.
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It is a good looking car for sure. I agree its a bit over priced as to me the market is down a little on prices now also. But then the what would it cost to build question ? That depends on how much you can do yourself of course but if you pay a shop to build that car it wont be much cheaper when they add in parts and labor. I built my 63 you see here myself as I bought the car with the original 383 in it. It has the same paint on it that was on it when I bought it in 2003. And I bought it very cheap because I do work on the guys other cars so I worked the price down real cheap. My car is a street/strip car that's 99% street and then I race it about twice a year. And this car could be a car like mine that's street/strip real easy. Depending on how fast you want to go will have a lot to do with the money you spend so I would want to know everything I could about the eng because if you buy it and the eng is not as strong as you want then you will be pulling the eng to build it as you like. I can tell you I spent about 12k on my 63 in just parts as I did all the work myself. But the 12 K is just parts to build my 727 trans and my 8-3/4 rear and the 440/493 eng. I am sure if I paid a shop to build it they would mark up the parts prices and with labor I would bet it could be around 30k. Bottom line is that looks like a nice car and it would be nice to know just what is in the eng build. I would try to get the price down some though if you really want to buy it and I like the car so if it looks good to you I wish you good luck on getting the price down a bit. Good luck. Ron
Bottom line is basically, either is buy a pretty nice car already done at a discounted price from a knowlegable, honest individual, , or build it yourself and pay yourself nothing for labor!!! Otherwise, try to negotiate a price on the car you want from the business that sells people's cars on commission??? Which can be like dealing with a new car store!!????? At any rate, we all want to have a car we love and can afford.
Having never owned one, how rambunctious are these Max Wedge motors on the street? If it is high compression, how much fun will it be trying to get an acceptable street tune? Then again, is it likely a dealer and seller will agree to a test drive? That might be a reality check, then again it might be a lower compression engine with a sensible cam.
Way back bout 2002 or so a friend of a friend ( Mopar friends) told me of a 68 GTX that came from Ca. to Mo. with the owner, a pro mechanic , that had built the car. That guy sold it to a guy and he wanted to sell it. It even had been on cover of Car Craft or something once. Well I go to sell it in the dead of winner it s is like above, I am headed to a job and it is 6 AM. The engine was a 10:1 440 with stage 3 MW head and intake correct carbs, etc. It has manual chokes, he starts it, fires right up, lets it warm up, and drives off great. It had a MW cam he called it, noting radical about what I would guess to be a 509? I pulled the MW parts, the high stall convertor, sold all that and put it back stock and sold it after a while. Just my only experience with the MW other than a few engines I found and fliped years back.
An original MW wedge is zero fun on the street with super high compression and big cam and that cross ram intake. You can't even find gas for those anymore unless you buy drums of unleaded racing gas. Adding a 4.25 stroke tames them down some and then using a modern hyd roller cam would be a big help. The intake is a big bathtub that fills up with gas on cold starts. EFI would be a big help but not too many people do that. The real insult is that those motors don't make a lot of power since that intake doesn't work all that great. A big single 4bbl intake will make more power than the crossram and cost a lot less. But they do look cool and that is what is important to a lot of people. I ran one for years then moved on after doing a bunch of dyno testing. We picked up a lot of power by switching to a big single 4bbl and the car ran a lot better.
Max wedge engine uses different cylinder heads and intake manifold than the regular wedge engines. The intake runners are taller and wider for air flow. A low compression engine with a mild cam with those heads would not be streetable. I think to run on the street, you would be better off with a good set of aluminum wedge heads and a good single 4 barrel intake. You guys that race and are more familiar with a max wedge please chime in, if I’m wrong about that.
For my 63 I built an Indy EZ aluminum head 440 stroker of 493 cubes and I use the Indy dual plane intake with a Holley 850 DP. I also run a solid flat tappet cam that's a custom grind to help keep my cyl pressure pump gas friendly. Its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. And my comp is 10.6. And its a very street friendly driving eng. I drive and race it on 92 pump and it has great driveabilty and street manners and runs fine at the track. I am always thinking of going to the crossram because it gives that awesome Max Wedge look but it just runs and drives so good on this setup I don't know if I will ever go to the crossram. Ron
Lets face it, dual carb and six pacs are basically eye candy, nothing more. Like anything, they an be made to work on the street just fine.
I'm running a 413 Max Wedge on the street. Max Wedge intake, M/W heads, M/W 750cfm 3705 Carter's, 9.0:1 compression, and a 4 speed. The car has great street manners and runs 12.2's at the track on street tires(radial TA's), thru the mufflers on 89 octane pump gas. Don't be afraid to stagger jet your carbs, you can stagger the needles and the vacuum springs too. It's all about checking plug readings through out the rpm ranges.
Dana64 I don't have much room at all. I have maybe a 1/4" between the top of the air cleaner and the center of the scoop which is not much higher then the hood. My heads are the Basic Indy EZ heads that are opened to Max Wedge size. I would say I cant fit any taller intake under my hood. Ron
Nice 65 Dodge dressed up like a 62-63-64 Maxwedge car . If that car had a Hemi and Cross Ram , it would be fantastic. But it is nice the way it is. There is a lot of detail to the finish work and paint. Lots of wax on those tires. It's also dressed up like a N/SS car , but it looks like a nice street cruiser. $44000 for a street cruiser? It's your money.
1966 hemi car for less $$$...b body. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Dodge-Coronet/283618191426?hash=item4208f62842:g:KPgAAOSwBQ1dgkLN