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65 coronet poly 318

the coroner 318

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Ok so i got a '65 b body dodge, and i am interseted in some speed parts for the poly 318. Its got an A 904 3 on the tree auto trans in it right now, i want to swap an A833 4 speed into it tho, maybe with sometype of overdrive idk. I just would like some old school mopar insight on some cool speed parts for a 65 coronet 440 2 door poly 318 4 speed.I picked up a 4 barrel intake to replace the leaky 2 barrel i have on it right now, and i need an alternator bracket as well. I was toying with the idea of a stroker crank and a crower cam, im just not how sure the stock 318 heads will breathe with serious speed parts. With an extra set of heads it would be possible to like experiment with porting and polishing and swaping valves and what not.
 
Are you sure that it is not a 727? My 318 65 was a 727, but my 273 65 was a 904.
 
The heads need to be pro. done and have the time taken to look at whom is able to do it. They'll take all "LA" parts with exception of the (*I think*) the valves and rockers.

Racer Brown makes cams for these old Poly engines.

It'll take a 318/340 crank/stroker crank. But the pistons will be custom due to the valve arrangement. Also see Hugesengines.com for a list of parts.

tti has headers.
 
@wedgie I am not 100 percent sure if it is a 904, how can i be sure the difference between the 2?, if its a 727 i might keep it or use it for a drag car. I know the 727 transmissions can handle a beatdown and a half, and are easily modded.
 
318,i could be wrong but i dont think the 318 poly ever came with a 904 Tranny,if im wrong i stand corrected
 
Yep, 318 poly would have had a 727 auto or 3 spd. manual depending what box was checked.
 
The push buttons operated cables for gear selection.Your '65 trans is a column lever,cable shifted as well.It is a one year only model being cable operated,column shifted and having a slip yoke output shaft.Your transmission should be a 727 or Torqueflite 8 as they were referred to in old service manuals.My '65 Coronet was a 318 poly originally,the trans is a 727,column cable shifted as yours is.
RT
 
You could get a console if you ordered the right trim level, ie, Coronet 500, just as an example.
 
'65 was the last year for ball and trunnion except on the 727's. '65 727's has a slip yoke as they have ever since.
 
I had a new 65 Beleveder 11 with the 318 poly engine and 3 speed. I was 18 and in 1st year auto mechanics. I found a stock 1958 4 barrel intake and used a 383 Carter and stock air cleaner. OK but not great. I then put on dual exhaust with Corvaire turbo mufflers and a Hurst 3 speed floor shift. A little better but still not great. I then pulled the distributor, filed the advance slots, and took needle nose pliers and stretched the advance springs. This was in 1965 and no one offered anything for this back then. I can't remember what the advance curve was but I still used the stock vacumn canister and bumped up the initial timing. I tried different valve settings but it seemed that the stock settings were best. I had 3.23 non posi rear end. This really hit it. I street raced all the time and I never had a 383 auto or 4-speed to beat me. I remember I shifted at 5000 RPM. I had people look me up at least once a week to race. This was a long time ago but I couldn't believe my 318 was kicking 383s. This was nothing really special but it sure worked. I got the most results from modifying my distributor and have modified many distributors with the same results. I think that a really good recurve is the cheapest and best thing you can do to any engine to this day. Hope this might help.
 
I had a new 65 Beleveder 11 with the 318 poly engine and 3 speed. I was 18 and in 1st year auto mechanics. I found a stock 1958 4 barrel intake and used a 383 Carter and stock air cleaner. OK but not great. I then put on dual exhaust with Corvaire turbo mufflers and a Hurst 3 speed floor shift. A little better but still not great. I then pulled the distributor, filed the advance slots, and took needle nose pliers and stretched the advance springs. This was in 1965 and no one offered anything for this back then. I can't remember what the advance curve was but I still used the stock vacumn canister and bumped up the initial timing. I tried different valve settings but it seemed that the stock settings were best. I had 3.23 non posi rear end. This really hit it. I street raced all the time and I never had a 383 auto or 4-speed to beat me. I remember I shifted at 5000 RPM. I had people look me up at least once a week to race. This was a long time ago but I couldn't believe my 318 was kicking 383s. This was nothing really special but it sure worked. I got the most results from modifying my distributor and have modified many distributors with the same results. I think that a really good recurve is the cheapest and best thing you can do to any engine to this day. Hope this might help.

Can you please elaborate on the "recurve procedure"?
 
I have a poly with 4 barrel ,dual exhaust, electric iggy, unknown cam. looked at a set of header$ (choke spot).
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-Headers/318poly/TTi318.htm
decided for the most bang for the buck route and did the schumaker 440 conversion with a b/b 727 out of 65 coronet so's to keep the push-button. turned out to be a lot more money to be done right...need to get off my *** and bust up the poly. parts are worth more then the engine itself, though it runs nice for a 50 year old engine.
garry and the folks at his web site are the guru's on poly's , if your in love with the semi hemi ,talk with him for the straight skinny.
 
This was in 1965. I was in auto mechanics. I felt like I was missing something with the changes I had made. Ignition was the only thing left. Just changing iniitial timing wouldn't change much so I went to the distributor. I pulled the points plate after disconnecting the vaccumn arm. I had to file out the slots (make them longer) so the centrifigal advance would be more than the factory wanted. I stretched the springs so I could get more advance quicker. I left the vaccumn the way it came for 2 reasons - I couldn't change it and I knew I needed it on the street. It was just a shot in the dark in the dark but it sure worked. My first reply was the truth. and another thing. The 318 poly heads had canted valves like a 396, 427, or 454 chevy. I might never be able to do it again. I have a 65 Satellite now with a 440. There are no more Sun Distributor machines anywhere that I know of. I honestly believe there's more power in ignition than anything else you can do to an engine. I had a 428 in a 64 GTO with a wide ratio 4-speed and 3.23 posi, and 3 duces. It had a measured 9.01 to 1 compression ratio with a fast advance curve. I could run 93 octane with good timing with no spark knocks and when i shifted from 1st to 2nd at 7000 rpm, the front wheels would clear the ground. I sent my 440 distributor to FBO Systems(you can look them up on the internet). Dons had over 40 years recurving distributors and if you give him the right infro, he can help you. High tech electronic ignition is the going thing now, but if you're not going to turn over 5500 rpm, points are just fine if you use good points with copper distributor lugs and copper points along with a good coil. I hope this answers your questions
 
if you are lucky enough to find one there is the edelbrock p 600 3 deuce manifold. I found one in Conroe Tx. w/ 3 holley carbs. for 350.00
 
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