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66 Charger Possible Buy....Opinions?

W

wantacharger

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Hey everyone, new to the forum, maybe new to the community. I'm looking at this 66 Charger right now and wanted some veteran opinions on a price idea for this kind of car.

It is a 383-4 with the original engine and tranny. Floor shifter.

The good news is that it has ZERO rust. True California car with nothing on the floors, rockers, frame rails, drip rails, or spare wheel metal. It is also complete with the exception of a gas tank. It has all the trim, working headlight motors, new 22 piece carpet set, all glass is in good condition. No body damage with the exception of a dent on one of the 'sails' coming down. Nothing major. Runs.

The bad news is that the paint is original and not great. Faded, some light surface rust on a few spots. No gas tank. He told me it was rusted out so it was junk. Needs master cylinder which I take to mean entire brake system overhaul. If its been exposed for awhile then there's probably rust in the lines and that's no good.

I know that these cars are more money sinks than if you bought a restored one but I absolutely love the body style of these early Chargers and would want to put a modern 5.7 Hemi, tremec, and suspension beneath the car. I'd like to make it my own.

So, to all the experts, whats a ball park range for this kind of car? Whats a steal price? Whats an average price? Whats a walk away price?

Thanks everybody,
 
What is his asking price and do you have pictures?

If your worried about how much you'll sink into the car, then the car may not be for you and the car hobby also may not be for you.
 
That'd be a steal at 5 grand but probably well worth the asking price. Especially if it's solid like you say.
 
Look at it this way: If you buy a finished car, it may not be done the way that you like it. Repairs could have been hacked and poorly done. A car that you build yourself will cost more but you will know what was done, how it was done and what it really cost. The peace of mind there is priceless.
If you haven't ever had the occasion to buy an incomplete or rusted project car, you really do not know how far ahead of the game that you are when you start with a better material. Some cars have one year only parts that are difficult to find. Some stuff is not being reproduced and may never be. What is reproduced may be crappy in fit and finish compared to original parts.
 
For 5K(or less) That's a good price for a 2 door Big Block anything.And it's not Green !!
 
He told me he was pretty firm on the price. I was thinking I could try and get it for 7k or 6.5k at best. I haven't really dealt with rusted cars. Being in CA I've had 13 cars without any of them needing more than 2 inches of rust repair. I should count my blessings.

For 7k is it a good deal or just a fair price?
 
If you want to put a modern drivetrain into an old car, this isn't the one for you.
With matching numbers and in such good condition, anyone with a lick of sense is going to redo this car stock and keep the original drivetrain.
A big block 4 speed anything that's still in one piece needs to be straight up restored.
Just my opinion.
 
66 Chargers are cool..This was mine about 16 years ago. Work on that price.Even at $7500 though a bit high, it sure got potential.But if you are sure you want to do a modern drive train I'd look for something less valuable.I'd be hard pressed to cut up a real 383 car.Just a thought.

skully3.jpg
 
wantacharger said:
Hey everyone, new to the forum, maybe new to the community. I'm looking at this 66 Charger right now and wanted some veteran opinions on a price idea for this kind of car.

It is a 383-4 with the original engine and tranny. Floor shifter.

The good news is that it has ZERO rust. True California car with nothing on the floors, rockers, frame rails, drip rails, or spare wheel metal. It is also complete with the exception of a gas tank. It has all the trim, working headlight motors, new 22 piece carpet set, all glass is in good condition. No body damage with the exception of a dent on one of the 'sails' coming down. Nothing major. Runs.

The bad news is that the paint is original and not great. Faded, some light surface rust on a few spots. No gas tank. He told me it was rusted out so it was junk. Needs master cylinder which I take to mean entire brake system overhaul. If its been exposed for awhile then there's probably rust in the lines and that's no good.

I know that these cars are more money sinks than if you bought a restored one but I absolutely love the body style of these early Chargers and would want to put a modern 5.7 Hemi, tremec, and suspension beneath the car. I'd like to make it my own.

So, to all the experts, whats a ball park range for this kind of car? Whats a steal price? Whats an average price? Whats a walk away price?

Thanks everybody,
Click to expand...

No, the good news is that paint is original in ANY condition.
I'll pay a premium for a car that has not been repainted.
Because one never really knows what is under that nice new paint.
If every thing is there that is way more than half the battle.
I'm sorry, does the engine run?
That would be a factor in pricing the car.
If it is a matching numbers engine that is also a significant consideration.
I understand you want a different engine.
I'm doing that myself with a matching car so as to not risk the original engine.
You are in Cali so your pricing is very different from the rust belt.
On thing about first Gens you may already know.
They are hard to get parts for.
But on the up side, they are the original Chargers.

Elvis1.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Wantacharger, I think your absolutely correct and with a high possibility rate.
I also think that with a car like that in the link, you will need a screen name change to "I own", or "I got a Charger!"

Look for rust at the rear spring attaching points, fire and aft, inside the frame rails in the engine compartment, look close by the power steering box area. These are some of the hidden rust spots and worth a peak for a possible way to get the car cheaper.

Best of luck, the car looks good.
 
Thanks everybody. I understand that this is a car worth restoring as a 383. Doesn't sound like a bad plan and I'll check out those hidden rust spots. It is an automatic though. I wish it was a manual. I'll hopefully check it out pretty soon. Thanks for all the help everybody. I'll let you all know if I pick it up!

And it does run, just need a gas tank and master cylinder to drive.
 
I agree, if all is there it's not a great price but OK. At a glance, looks like the headlamps are stuck open ... there is a project.
Does the EL dash light, all working gauges? Trim ALL there inside and out? Seat covers can be replaced but condition in general? AC work?
Physically does the car run and everything work?
Body work is secondary IMO to all that. If so, you will pay one way or another, no rust and a paint job or cheaper with rust and now you are replacing body panels. The old pay me now or pay me later deal!
 
Love that year Charger. How do you know the engine runs if there's no gas tank? Is there a temp tank hooked up and piped in? Trust but verify.
 
I just posted a quite similar one in Ontario canada for some reference . on b body mopars for sale
 
That's a nice car but at his asking price I would lean toward to. Much I'd say $5-6 your starting with a solid car though so that's a huge plus but for not much more money you can get a nice Daily driver
 
No such thing as numbers match on pre-1968.5.

Only date code correct.

Looks like a sideswipe on driver's quarter.

Kind of a nasty dent on sail panel.

"No hidden headlights" is absolutely not true.

Agree on original paint not hiding anything.

I've seen slightly better for 6.5-8K, but not terrible.

Any other value modifiers like A/C, P/W, etc?
 
very good point I see a lot of cars pre 68 saying numbers matching that's when I go to next add. what is the longest or shortest time between motor and car date .
 
He says the car runs when hooked up to a little gas can. Don't know about power steering or A/C. I'll ask when I talk to him. I'm thinking I'm at 6k for it. He says complete but I would expect a couple things to be missing here and there. Also says that it needs a master cylinder to be driveable. That could mean a lot of brake work if the system has not been sealed.

A/C? Power steering? Hidden rust spots? Dash lights working?

Other questions I should ask?
 
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