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66 Coronet, how much gas for Needle to Move on Gauge?

the reproduction sending units are terrible for accuracy simply because the rheostat winding in them is different than the originals at best they will tell you full and empty but in between is not accurate. I say the gauge is defective but you could ground the sending wire once again and see if it goes to full if so as soon as I gets there unground the sending unit wire immediately. But I think from what you stated the gauge is problematic at the very least.
 
Thanks Bee. I will run the Number 1 check in the morning as it is not Bike Ride day, assuming it is not Honey Do Morning. It is some HOT here in the KC area. If I need a fuel gauge, recon a feller can find one here on FBBO? Best to you all, B.
 
Yea it’s hot and humid here in East Tennessee as well. Yes I’m sure someone here can help you out with a good fuel gauge just post an ad in the classifieds section.
 
Thanks Bee, Looks cool and it would probably fit better in my dash as far as looks go than a new one since the rest of the gauges are original. What I do not see is any discussion on testing?? So, might have to look at that. Best, B.
 
Hi Bee and folks, went down to the car this morning. Grounded the Sending Unit Wire, key to on position and the gauge went Quickly to near full. Fortunately, Ms. M was in the car and turned off the key as she hollered down to me to remove the ground. I do not think it touched Full, but was close. With key off and no Grounded Wire, the gauge returned to Quarter full just where it was yesterday.

Did the same exercise twice more just to see if it was perhaps a "freedom" thing with the hand on the gauge. It always returns to quarter tank.

So question, is there something that can be lubed on the Gauge that might allow the hand to move more freely? If so, I would rather keep this one as it "matches" the others in the Dash. Or, in you all's experience is that it is TOAST and lube will not help, it is off to shop for another gas gauge. Thanks folks for your help. Best, B.
 
if you look at the ebay pics again the pic of the back of the gauge theres two small holes
and in them and notice the little tabs with notches. those are for calibration of the gauge you could pull the gauge and tweak
it to E
 
Thanks Bee, you think that while it is out, is there any "cleaning" and "lubing" that can be done that will help it? B.
 
I’m certainly no expert but I just went through this myself.

Got a original sending unit, gasket, and a nos lock ring. No leaks. Added a second ground for the sending unit and the gauge finally moved.

Filled up and gauge read just a bit past half-full. I’ve driven it some and assume to be around a half a tank left and gauge shows empty.

It seems this is a common problem - and I used an original working sending unit not a reproduction and still have a gauge issue not displaying correctly. Not a huge deal, but I am super type A so it does bother me ha.
 
OK folks, I still have the car so that I can roll the entire Dash forward, I think. I have read the SM and it says to bring the Instrument Cluster out the front. Anyone have any experience in doing this to get to the Fuel Gauge? The oil, temp and other gauges work fine. So, don't need to work those, just get to the Fuel Gauge. Would like to do a quick clean, if I can and give it a try again, if anyone thinks that might work to solve the problem? Thanks again for your help. B.
 
Folks, I went back and looked at my reference photos of when I took out and put together the Instrument panel. So, I answered my own question. Thanks again to you all. I wish you all the best, B.
 
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