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66 Drums to Disk

If you go with Wilwood disc's note they say there's a wheel fitment disgram to figure if your 15" wheels fit.
There's also been questions about Magnumforce's reliability and customer service. Other places sell Wilwood.
Dittos on Magnumforce. I’ve read a lot of really bad reviews about their quality and CS.
 
4 x 10" drums- 125mph- repeated 1/4 mile.
I would call this tops for a 3600lb car.
Not mentioned yet is the reason drums are better on a footbrake car is called self energization. Similar principle to a sprag, or say an oil filter wrench.
 
My first question is, does your car have 2 brake lines coming off the master or only 1 ?
That will give the first part of the answer of what direction to go in.
 
On the Dr. Diff discs, I had to chase all the threads on the spindles for the caliper mounting bracket bolts to thread in. Other than that they when together well.
Made in China parts? Kinda hard to get away from that crap....

4 x 10" drums- 125mph- repeated 1/4 mile.
I would call this tops for a 3600lb car.
Not mentioned yet is the reason drums are better on a footbrake car is called self energization. Similar principle to a sprag, or say an oil filter wrench.
Yup....the leading shoe would be 'pulled' into the drum when applied.
 
My car has manual 4 wheel drum brakes. It stops it fine.

BUT,,,,,We have some mountain drives around here and drum brakes are fine,,,,,all the way up said route and ,MOST of the way down

its all the partial braking ( and there are lots of it ) is when it becomes a problem at the bottom. Brake fade is very real once the drums get hot . and MY primary reasoning of going to disc brakes in the near future
 
My car has manual 4 wheel drum brakes. It stops it fine.

BUT,,,,,We have some mountain drives around here and drum brakes are fine,,,,,all the way up said route and ,MOST of the way down

its all the partial braking ( and there are lots of it ) is when it becomes a problem at the bottom. Brake fade is very real once the drums get hot . and MY primary reasoning of going to disc brakes in the near future
What are you using for shoes? Semi metallic or.....? Usually semi metallic is better as far as fade goes but it does wear the drums faster than none sm shoes.
 
My car has manual 4 wheel drum brakes. It stops it fine.

BUT,,,,,We have some mountain drives around here and drum brakes are fine,,,,,all the way up said route and ,MOST of the way down

its all the partial braking ( and there are lots of it ) is when it becomes a problem at the bottom. Brake fade is very real once the drums get hot . and MY primary reasoning of going to disc brakes in the near future
What are you using for shoes? Semi metallic or.....? Usually semi metallic is better as far as fade goes but it does wear the drums faster than none sm shoes.
 
I use the Wilwood kit pictured and absolutely love it. Lots of street miles and coming down from lots of low 10 second passes at a most of 133mph at the dragstrip in a heavy street car. They saved a TON of weight over the stock drums due to the aluminum hub and calipers. I used a truck master with the 1 1/8" bore and coupled that with some 11" station wagon drums for the rear (weight where I need it). Zero issues in 6 years of beating the hell out if them. People cry about Wilwoods and I've never understood why because my experience has been great.
 
What are you using for shoes? Semi metallic or.....? Usually semi metallic is better as far as fade goes but it does wear the drums faster than none sm shoes.

No idea material they are .
Havent had the drums off yet.
But odds are the are NOT SM shoes

Ive had enough drum brake cars over the years. Its only a matter of temp when they fade. Regardless of material
 
Thanks everyone for all the info. I think I'll stay with the drums since The car will only be running in a straight line. I'm using a proportioning valve and the fronts will be doing most of the work, so I will need them to hold tight at the line. Thanks Frank Mopar.
 
Thanks everyone for all the info. I think I'll stay with the drums since The car will only be running in a straight line. I'm using a proportioning valve and the fronts will be doing most of the work, so I will need them to hold tight at the line. Thanks Frank Mopar.
The fronts always do most of the work since the weight transfers to the front of the car when braking but you also want the rears to hold well too in a drag car. I'm thinking you plan on using an adjustable PV? Also, a line lock for the burnout is a good idea too...
 
The fronts always do most of the work since the weight transfers to the front of the car when breaking but you also want the rears to hold well too in a drag car. I'm thinking you plan on using an adjustable PV? Also, a line lock for the burnout is a good idea too...
Yup, that's the exact setup; adj PV and a line lock for the water box. I figure I'll use the test and tune runs so I can get the back brakes dialed in to where they still help at the end of the track and feel safe without dragging during the run.
 
I figure I'll use the test and tune runs so I can get the back brakes dialed in to where they still help at the end of the track and feel safe without dragging during the run.
Was thinking about how that would work out....adjust just before staging would be my guess? On a side note....I know the difference between braking and breaking and even when I went to correct it, I speeeled it wrong again! lol
 
My first question is, does your car have 2 brake lines coming off the master or only 1 ?
That will give the first part of the answer of what direction to go in.
2 lines, one feeds the rear through an adj PV, and the other the front through a line brake.
 
If you ditch self adjusters NAPA sells manual adjusters they're different they've larger teeth. The adjusting spoon fits better. NAPA numbers are UP80556 left and UP80557.
 
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If you ditch self adjusters NAPA sells manual adjusters they're different they've larger teeth. The adjusting spoon fits better. NAPA numbers are UP80556 left and UP80557.
I just happen to be friends with the owner of the local NAPA store, I'll drop those numbers on him and have them ordered in. Thanks.
 
I just happen to be friends with the owner of the local NAPA store, I'll drop those numbers on him and have them ordered in. Thanks.
Always good to have friends at a parts house......most of mine have moved on or have passed on. :(
 
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