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67. Gtx 10 inch rotors will not tighten up.

ywca

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I’m putting back the original brakes on my 67 convertible, I got the parts from my brother’s 68 GTX the rotors and calipers. The callipers were rebuilt by John Stuart and I’m machined the rotors. When I got the rotors, there was a 1/8 shim underneath the inner bearing race. I removed the shim from the-race and put the bearings on the rotor and I couldn’t get the lash out. I put the shim in behind the inner bearing race and installed it and put the calliper on, and I couldn’t turn the rotor. I put the shim on the spindle, then bolted up the rotor and put the calliper on and everything is fine. I have the right inner and outer bearings. The only thing I can see wrong is the rotor. what would I do to resolve this problem? i’m not familiar with these parts. The distance between where the inner race goes to the outside of the hub is 1.250. there is no part number on the spindle, but there is on the inside of the rotor. As you can see in the picture.

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Looks like the one piece rotors.
If so, they are aftermkt , Probably the DuraBrake versions

Ive heard they had issues
 
Something is way off, my WAG is wrong rotors.
The way they sit you could never get a dust cap on.
Not sure why anyone would shim a race ?
 
I think he might’ve shimed the race if their rotors were getting thin, putting a shim behind the inner race would bring the rotor in board
Looks like the one piece rotors.
If so, they are aftermkt , Probably the DuraBrake versions

Ive heard they had issues
 
Something is way off, my WAG is wrong rotors.
The way they sit you could never get a dust cap on.
Not sure why anyone would shim a race ?
What’s the thought of putting a 1/8 spacer on the spindle, bolting up the callipers everything lines up perfect,
 
What’s the thought of putting a 1/8 spacer on the spindle, bolting up the callipers everything lines up perfect,
For me the correct first step would be to ID the spindles as far the correct or original application.
Then match your rotor and caliper to that.
Shims behind the races and spacers behind the rotor to me does not sound like a good plan.
I understand working with what you have but on the wheels I would want a correct fit.
Are the caliper brackets that bolt to the spindle ( Scare Bird ) brand ? If they are they probably are a gold color.
If they are you may have to swap sides with the brackets.
Mine had the caliper mounting nuts welded in offset a bit that made them left and right,
You could not just flip them.
My set used the original spindles but I do know they build or built models with your rotor style.
20220108_131053.jpg
 
For me the correct first step would be to ID the spindles as far the correct or original application.
Then match your rotor and caliper to that.
Shims behind the races and spacers behind the rotor to me does not sound like a good plan.
I understand working with what you have but on the wheels I would want a correct fit.
Are the caliper brackets that bolt to the spindle ( Scare Bird ) brand ? If they are they probably are a gold color.
If they are you may have to swap sides with the brackets.
Mine had the caliper mounting nuts welded in offset a bit that made them left and right,
You could not just flip them.
My set used the original spindles but I do know they build or built models with your rotor style.
View attachment 1872967

For me the correct first step would be to ID the spindles as far the correct or original application.
Then match your rotor and caliper to that.
Shims behind the races and spacers behind the rotor to me does not sound like a good plan.
I understand working with what you have but on the wheels I would want a correct fit.
Are the caliper brackets that bolt to the spindle ( Scare Bird ) brand ? If they are they probably are a gold color.
If they are you may have to swap sides with the brackets.
Mine had the caliper mounting nuts welded in offset a bit that made them left and right,
You could not just flip them.
My set used the original spindles but I do know they build or built models with your rotor style.
View attachment 1872967P
These are original Bendix callipers that have been rebuilt. They bolt on the knuckle , the rotor has to fit perfect for the calliper to fit right over the rotor. I received these parts from my brother that has two GTX that went to the bigger brakes. He also had a bunch of used stuff and he just gave me what he had. There was also used bearings with spacers with them that I just found, I believe this is what they used back in the day because they couldn’t get the right rotors
 
These are original Bendix callipers that have been rebuilt. They bolt on the knuckle , the rotor has to fit perfect for the calliper to fit right over the rotor. I received these parts from my brother that has two GTX that went to the bigger brakes. He also had a bunch of used stuff and he just gave me what he had. There was also used bearings with spacers with them that I just found, I believe this is what they used back in the day because they couldn’t get the right rotors
I'd believe you are correct. Now on the spacers.. is there an adequate bevel on the inside for the radius of the spindle? They're on the correct way?
 
I had the same problem with my 1968 GTX with the Bendix callipers. Factory fitted disc brakes, stock 2 piece rotors and all in good condition. No matter what there was just a little bearing play after adjustment.
I found it was the outer bearing (the little one on the outside) not being able to be pushed in enough to get a little preload because the outer washer was bottoming on the spindle.
Another thing I noticed was the outer bearing washer has one side flat the other slight bevel which goes towards the bearing.
I added a washer 1 mm thick between the outer bearing inner race and the adjustment washer and nut - problem fixed.
This did move the nut and cotter pin closer to the dust cap - got to bend the cotter pin "around" the spindle.
 
What’s the thought of putting a 1/8 spacer on the spindle, bolting up the callipers everything lines up perfect,
My concern with this method is where is the seal lining up on the spindle ?

I think I would put the spacer back inside the rotor and inner bearing race, and space the rotor out. That way the inner bearing is spinning ( what little it actually moves ) is against the actual spindle not some spacer . Plus your seal is where its supposed to be on the spindle
 
My concern with this method is where is the seal lining up on the spindle ?

I think I would put the spacer back inside the rotor and inner bearing race, and space the rotor out. That way the inner bearing is spinning ( what little it actually moves ) is against the actual spindle not some spacer . Plus your seal is where its supposed to be on the spindle
I finally got the callipers to be centred on the rotors. It was a bear. I didn’t notice this problem earlier which was the rotor had a step before the flat surface, preventing the calliper to be square ,you’ll see in the photo the part that I had to machine. I added 1/8 to the inner bearing race and I had enough room to tighten the nut. It’ll be tough to get the cup on the end. Right side I added 1/8 to the inner bearing race and didn’t have enough threads to tighten up the nut, so I put a 1/8 behind the outer bearing race to solve that problem. This is only temporary until I find the right rotors. I want to get the callipers and the rear brakes working so I can move the vehicle and start working on the fuel system.

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