'68-70 B-body trailer hitch - which Dakota hitch?

[cudak888]

I keep hearing that a few of the Dakota trailer hitches can be made to work with the '66/67 B-bodies, but haven't heard anything about the '68-70s, nor which variants/years of Dakota hitch would work.

I'd like to stuff something on the back of my '68 Satellite so as to yank my '71 Mustang to a bodyshop (rear framerail is tweaked; can't fix it at home, need a frame table), but I haven't the slightest idea of which one to look for.

I've also considered the period correct Draw-Tite hitches only because the damn thing will be marked with the car it fits, but I haven't the slightest idea if the old bar-stock hitches from the '60s are rated for the weight of the Mustang and a trailer.

-Kurt

 

[Budnicks]

I looked I don't have any photos of my moms car
68 Sport Sat 383 4bbl 4 speed
she got a tow package when it was ordered new for 1968
but IIRC Dealer installed thou, I was only like 9 y/o

I did get the car from her/them when I was 19-ish
going on my recollection memory, it was almost 40 years ago now
it had a 1-1/2" x 3/8" {1/2" ?} flat stock bent to shape,
it was probably the 1st thing I removed {sorry},
If my memory serves me properly, it was
kind of in a big Y shape, bent/shaped to fit, with a cross bar
it was attached to the lower part of the rear bumper 2 bolts &
2 bolts to the outside {IIRC} side of the frame, under the fuel tank,
with one single 1-1/2 x 3/8" (1/2" ?} flat stock with a 5/8" {IIRC}
hole drilled in it, sitting just under the license plate,
a spread bar/cross bar attached to the bumper on either side
all the corners were rounded off too, if the makes any sense
it was all chromed too, the car also had HD spring on the rear
like the Hemi cars had too...

Good luck

 

[mopar 3 B]

Have you checked the owners manual? I have seen the requirements and drawings some where.

 

[cudak888]

Have you checked the owners manual? I have seen the requirements and drawings some where.

To weld one up oneself?

EDIT: Wait - specifications too. Hmm. Let me see if the '68 Belvedere manual is up online. My Valiant has its original, but the Satellite's is long gone.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Looks like I'll have to order a manual to get that info. No luck finding a PDF online.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

I'm dredging this up again, as I'm back on the idea of having a hitch on the car.

Really curious to see any photos of '68-70s with the oft-mentioned Dakota hitch and also the clearance to the exhaust. I'm running two glasspacks in this area, and I'll put a bet to it that they'll probably get in the way of most modern hitch designs:

Yes, I have to repair both of the towing jockey tears in the framerail to accommodate this, and here's a closeup for all of you that want to see that carnage.

So exited about dropping the tank...again...for the 7th time...

Mind, I don't mind the idea of a period hitch; my only concern with it is that it'll be a ball mount rather than a 2" receiver - which is what I want in the first place (don't intend to do so much towing as carrying stuff on accessory racks).

-Kurt

 

[mopar 3 B]

2" receiver tube can be bought. If you are going to fab it to factor spec's put on it what you want.

 

[cudak888]

2" receiver tube can be bought. If you are going to fab it to factor spec's put on it what you want.

True, that's easy enough.

But finding a hitch unit that'll fit is another thing entirely. I've Googled a fair number of photos, but I'm not 100% sure if all of the period hitches fit the same mounting points.

I'm also concerned about the specific mounting points at the end of the frame. My rear bumper is slightly tweaked in spots, and I dare say that may make fitment more difficult if said holes are also shared with the bumper (notice that there happens to be one bolt already missing in the photos above).

-Kurt

 

[YY1]

68-70 frame rails are farther apart than 66/67, so a Dakota/F150 hitch won't work.

Those that do work on 66/67- it all depends on how the flanges and bolt holes are arranged.
The frame rail width is the same but other things underneath are different.
Dakota frames are also taller than b body frame rails. You have to take that into account as well.
The one I'm going to use on my 67 wagon because it's the least amount of trouble is a class II.
It will only need one flange corner ground off to clear something (forgot what).

Don't know what to tell you about 68-70 (although I think 68-70 wagon frames are the same as 66/67).
Maybe measure the distance between the rails and then research what else has the same distance.
I've found u-pull yards typically want about $35 for a hitch, so that's A- a great savings, and B- a good way to see what stuff looks like.
I spent quite a bit of time familiarizing myself with the underside of my wagon, and also touring the u-pulls to get personal experience with different designs.
I ended up buying a $35 direct fit hitch for my Dakota after I bought and installed a $175 "fits anything" hitch.
I have large, cat back dual exhaust, so I needed a specific design there as well.

I actually bought that class II from a guy's yard though.
Drove past it laying there, right in the middle of the yard with another hitch, stopped to ask, measured, and bought it for $20.
I could tell from just looking at it and my previous research that it was gonna be a close fit.

 

[cudak888]

68-70 frame rails are farther apart than 66/67, so a Dakota/F150 hitch won't work.

That info alone is invaluable and saves me a whole lot of bother - thank you!

Those that do work on 66/67- it all depends on how the flanges and bolt holes are arranged.
The frame rail width is the same but other things underneath are different.
Dakota frames are also taller than b body frame rails. You have to take that into account as well.
The one I'm going to use on my 67 wagon because it's the least amount of trouble is a class II.
It will only need one flange corner ground off to clear something (forgot what).

Don't know what to tell you about 68-70 (although I think 68-70 wagon frames are the same as 66/67).
Maybe measure the distance between the rails and then research what else has the same distance.
I've found u-pull yards typically want about $35 for a hitch, so that's A- a great savings, and B- a good way to see what stuff looks like.
I spent quite a bit of time familiarizing myself with the underside of my wagon, and also touring the u-pulls to get personal experience with different designs.

Not interested in modifying anything more than necessary, so I'll probably go for a period Draw-Tite hitch that was actually designed for the car - not to mention we don't have any pick-and-pulls here anymore. As @mopar 3 B said, a 2" receiver can be welded to the tongue, so that issue is sorted as well.

-Kurt

 

[YY1]

I've been looking for a "per the owners manual" hitch for my 73 Satellite for almost 10 years.

I actually bought one from a FBBO member, but turns out it was for a Charger and won't actually work on the Satellite without extensive mods. To the point that starting from scratch is a better option.

Hope you find one.

 

[cudak888]

I've been looking for a "per the owners manual" hitch for my 73 Satellite for almost 10 years.

I actually bought one from a FBBO member, but turns out it was for a Charger and won't actually work on the satellite without extensive mods. To the point that starting from scratch is a better option.

Hope you find one.

That's one of the reasons I'm crossing my fingers for a Draw-Tite - based on what I've seen, they're one of the few that might be stamped with what they fit.

-Kurt

 

[YY1]

I think I can make a much heavier duty hitch using mounts sandwiched under the bumper brackets.

Not sure why no one thought of that before.

I always cringe a bit thinking of the relatively thin sheet metal frame rails holding the weight.

 

[cudak888]

I think I can make a much heavier duty hitch using mounts sandwiched under the bumper brackets.

Not sure why no one thought of that before.

I always cringe a bit thinking of the relatively thin sheet metal frame rails holding the weight.

Wouldn't the bumper bracket mounts simply be pulling off the same framerails, simply from the end of the box area than the bottom alone?

Ditto in regards to any unibody frame with a hitch mount, though I don't intend to pull with it. Though...it might happen only as it's my only half-suitable towing vehicle.

 

[YY1]

For the wagon, I plan to peel up or remove from the inside, a length of floor over the frame rail, and drill and/or tap a length (about 8 inches or so) of 5/16-3/8 or thicker stock to accept the hitch bolts. It still could pull through, but will have a LOT more resistance than just the bolt/nut area. I'm also thinking about using the bumper bracket area as additional mounts.

I personally like everything to be able to to tow everything. (hey, you never know)

73/74 bumpers mount through the trunk with four spread out bolts.
A plate behind those nuts would have almost a square foot of resistance to pulling through.

 

[mopar 3 B]

The design drawings were in the owners manual for trailer hitch construction.
I will check the 68 FSM to see if it is there also. I am a bit surprised no one knows what's in their owners manual or has posted the drawing.

 

[cudak888]

For the wagon, I plan to peel up or remove from the inside, a length of floor over the frame rail, and drill and/or tap a length (about 8 inches or so) of 5/16-3/8 or thicker stock to accept the hitch bolts. It still could pull through, but will have a LOT more resistance than just the bolt/nut area. I'm also thinking about using the bumper bracket area as additional mounts.

I personally like everything to be able to to tow everything. (hey, you never know)

73/74 bumpers mount through the trunk with four spread out bolts.
A plate behind those nuts would have almost a square foot of resistance to pulling through.

Makes sense, and I know the "hey, if I could tow that..." phenomenon. Just the same, the unibody framerails are also a good way to prevent one's self from pushing the envelope and doing something stupid.

Someone did do a (piss-poor) job of replacing the trunk floor in my '68, but it's good enough (and painted), so I'd rather not cut-and-shut from the top if I can help it. However, the tow hook damage does mean I could conceivably cut the bottom of the rails open and add some stock in there when I close it up - on both sides.

The design drawings were in the owners manual for trailer hitch construction.
I will check the 68 FSM to see if it is there also. I am a bit surprised no one knows what's in their owners manual or has posted the drawing.

Never knew that existed; probably why that hasn't been posted.

It's the polar opposite of the insufferable "OMG, DON'T USE ANY USED HITCH EVER!!!" crowd.

-Kurt

 

[mopar 3 B]

This is out of a 67 Dart owners manual. Sorry I don't have on for a 68- 70 B body. People don't like to let them go with the car I guess. Should at least give an idea of how simple they are. I would not think it would be to hard to adapt the dimensions.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Picture did not insert I will try again.

 

[cudak888]

Picture did not insert I will try again.

Seems to be a PDF when the file was still up. Upload it and I'll download it at my end.

-Kurt