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69 b body hvac o rings at each connection?

Some Car Guy

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Are there suppose to be o rings at every fitting? I found a black o ring in the line to the condenser. One line off the compressor had no o ring at all. This car was converted to 134a by a shop, I’ve found a lot of suspicious work so far on things the previous owner said they did. I’ve never worked on ac before.
the take off parts he got back were in a box that came with the car. They installed a new dryer. Appears at this point a set of the green o rings are needed, want to make sure I put them all places needed. Does that big line get one?

last guy said it worked for a couple years, then needed some 134 the next year, then the next summer it wouldn’t hold pressure at all.
 
As above, all have O-rings and the newer, more chemical resistant, are green.
 
Yes all the connections are to have o rings.

As above, all have O-rings and the newer, more chemical resistant, are green.

This may sound a little off-topic and a bit of a rant, but my understanding from Day One; conversion to R134a from R12 was that the metering was quite similar.... The big thing (in cars) was two things, one was the incompatibility of oils, and the other was the permeability of hoses. In order to start making cars with AC again, using R134a would require all metal tubing, as well as connections. Retrofit should require the same two items, i.e. compatible oil in the compressor, and all metal lines. It would seem to me, that if they never went to metal-to-metal connections, they still are allowing for some refrigerant loss, correct? /rant mode off.
 
Thanks guys.

what’s a good ac vacuum system for a guy that will do this hopefully once but maybe a few times? A lot of trouble for me to take it to a shop and deal with who knows who or what.
 
A/C vacuum pump, along with an A/C flush tool can be borrowed from Autozone... Gotta leave a deposit but you get it back...

Yes, O rings at all locations unless there is a flare type fitting...

Yes, oil compatibility is an issue... hence the reason you flush the components you plan to re-use... And use esther oil even though it doesn't lubricate as well as mineral oil which s only compatible with R12 or PAG oil which is only compatible with R134.....Esther mixes with mineral oil or PAG oil without a problem... But mineral oil & PAG create a grey sludge...

Back in the 70's, 80's & 90's we would flush systems with a chemical that boiled at room temperature, I seem to recall it was R168... EPA didn't like it so you can't have it.... These days about the best you can do it denatured alcohol.... Flushing the evaporator three or four times will use about 1.5-2 quarts... Condenser & lines use another quart...

After flushing I hook up compressed air & blow each component for at least five minutes to cause the denatured alcohol to evaporate.... Then put the system into a vacuum... Trying to get an old system cleaned & dry I hook up the vacuum & let it run for 45 minutes or more...
 
Back in the 70's, 80's & 90's we would flush systems with a chemical that boiled at room temperature, I seem to recall it was R168... EPA didn't like it so you can't have it.... These days about the best you can do it denatured alcohol.... Flushing the evaporator three or four times will use about 1.5-2 quarts... Condenser & lines use another quart...
The flush systems we use in buildings today seem to be Acetone. They won't call it plain Acetone because you wouldn't give them $60 a can for it... but that's all I'm using now... works fine. Obviously if you use it in a vehicle system I'd make sure you replace all orings immediately afterwards. HTH, Lefty71
 
I have never read the FSM about the old V2 systems but don't the compressors have their own oil reservoir? Point being, the refrigerant oil doesn't travel throughout the system like the new systems do. Just curious.
 
Just curious.
The oil gets whipped into a bit of a froth in any system.... that's why you would need to flush, as opposed to just drain somehow (no provision for that for same reason).
 
I have never read the FSM about the old V2 systems but don't the compressors have their own oil reservoir? Point being, the refrigerant oil doesn't travel throughout the system like the new systems do. Just curious.
The old V2 did have a sump, but there was still oil in the system as well...
 
The old V2 did have a sump, but there was still oil in the system as well...
I was always curious about that. I remember seeing a V2 turned into a air compressor.
 
I had an uncle who had an old Ford Y block, one bank was used to power it, the other bank was used as an air compressor... Old timers were inventive & smart...
 
Inching forward in this. Got the green o rings in finally. Tally was 4 black and one missing, rest they managed to change with the new hoses.

new drier is on. Expansion valve changed.

the drier to expansion valve line fooled me. That one isn’t new. They painted the ends. It’s still pliable. I ordered a new one just to be safe. Hope it makes it before the guy works me in.

talked to the guy who will be charging it. He says the Four Seasons brand is hit or miss. Guess we will see. I might try and get an nos one if it can be found reasonably. The prices seem to be double on ebay what they were say about two months ago looking at the sales history.
 
new hose made it. Should have that on today.

how involved is the compressor nose seal? Can it be done with the compressor still in the car? Special tools? I may have some more time as he hasn’t given me a day to come over just yet.
 
Stuck that hose on. Frustrating that the made in the USA hose has the wrong kick in it and it doesn’t fit like the one that came off. Took a bit to find the angles where it did acceptable enough to go with it.

old one fit like a glove, thinking it might’ve been why it was left on. One of the ways the new one fits left it rubbing against the fan motor, not a good long term solution for sure. I’m not real pleased with it being against rubber hose either.

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I have never read the FSM about the old V2 systems but don't the compressors have their own oil reservoir? Point being, the refrigerant oil doesn't travel throughout the system like the new systems do. Just curious.

Just to veer off topic slightly -

All oil type refrigeration compressors have an oil sump or cavity of some type, larger ones can be remote, like a dry sump. Oil and refrigerant are miscible, refrigerant tending to thin oil. Keeping the refrigerant from thinning the oil is the job of crankcase heaters in many larger systems, usually for when the system is off. The oil gets right warm from the heat of compression in the compressor in operation, and has a tendency to be carried into the system. When everything is right, the oil returns at the same rate and the sump level changes very little.
 
Thanks to all who replied. I ended up with a drag racer at a shop about 8 minutes from me who was recommended by a friend when the one guy couldn’t get me scheduled.

this guy used a snap on machine and it held -29.1 inches for half an hour. He added some oil since we don’t really know what it had before. Also a handful of dye just in case.

I showed him the fsm and he decided on 3 pounds. I figured up 43 ounces was 80%, but he seemed pretty well versed in a whole lot of things. It got good and cold right away and it was freaky to drive with the windows up for the first time.
 
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