69 RR Starting circuitry help

[picklejuice52]

Hey all,

Long time listener, first time caller...

I tried to search for this but might be too specific. I have a 1969 RR with a 440 swap that I purchased some time ago, both the 440 swap and electronic ignition were added prior to my ownership. Car runs great but I have always had a suspicion that the starting circuitry might be incorrect. When I go to start the car, it will never start while the starter is cranking (ie. ignition switch in the "start" position). The key has to return to the "run" position in order for the engine to actually run. I have scoured the electrical diagrams but none that I have found show the contacts vs. key position for the actual key switch. Additionally, there might also be some wiring issues as the previous owner converted to electronic ignition and I have seen their previous work with this car, so I am a little suspect.

So my question, is this normal? Does the starting circuitry bypass the coil to an extent and then the "run" position re-applies voltage? I have read that this is not the case and that 12v is applied to the coil during start and 9v thereafter.

Would also like to add that the car came with a TSP Ready to run distributor with no ballast resistor wired.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as this makes starting the car a little precarious at times.

 

[Doorkicker]

There are (usually) two wires... one hot during cranking and one hot for ignition, which the latter goes off when cranking goes hot. Therefore, it's likely that your ign. wire is connected directly to the ign box, which isn't hot during cranking, but when you let off the key the engine is still spinning as the ign wire goes hot (as cracking goes off) and the engine starts.

There are a couple ways to "fix". A "quick test" is connect both the ign and cranking wires together with the pwr wire for the electronic box.

Do you still have a resistor connected to the ign?
What ign box are you running?

 

[picklejuice52]

Thanks Doorkicker,

I just edited my initial post to say that I have the TSP Ready to run distributor. I did not pick this and have read some less than desirable things. No resistor currently.

 

[Doorkicker]

Ah... good copy.

Follow the positive lead from the distributor... confirm where it's connected. If it's going direct to the coil positive side, then follow it from there. I bet it's connected to the one-wire from the ign that was formally going to the resistor.

 

[picklejuice52]

You called it bud! I jumped the brown/blue that was destined for the non existent ballast to the IGN side of the regulator and it fires up much better now! Having said that, should I keep the ballast resister bypassed?

 

[Doorkicker]

Sweet!
Nope... no need for it anymore... that a 12v distributor, so you want to ensure it's always at or north of 12v.

 

[picklejuice52]

not much literature on this setup but saw from your picture that ballast must be bypassed. All is good now. Thanks!

 

[picklejuice52]

Copy, thanks for your help!

Sweet!
Nope... no need for it anymore... that a 12v distributor, so you want to ensure it's always at or north of 12v.