69 Super Bee 383, Holley brawler kicked on linkage? Does this look correct?

[MikeyM]

Hi All,

I have a new to me 69 Super Bee, 383 with a 727. The one to two shift is fine, but it seems I have to let off the gas for it to shift into third. I’ve read similar posts about adjusting the kickdown linkage, but I have no idea if this is correct. It came with the car so I was hoping you guys could tell me if this mess of linkage is even accurate. I was thinking of just getting the Lokar lockdown cable set up or something similar to simplify. Any advice you guys could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Mikey.

 

[66 Sat]

It looks okay, but get a better return spring, 2 actually, an inner and and outer.
Does it kickdown properly when you mash the throttle?
You want the lever to start to move as soon as the throttle begins to open, and not to impede the throttle opening fully either, but there is fine tuning around this.
- By hand, open the throttle all the way and make sure the kick down isn't stopping it.
- Holding it at full throttle make sure you can't push the kickdown arm further down.

Generally there's that much slack in each part of the linkage that you can hit full kickdown before you hit full throttle, and the linkage will still allow you to get full throttle.

If the front slot is adjusted correctly and the shift to 3rd is delayed, then pop the ball off the vertical part of the linkage (against the firewall) and screw that a few turns out. Write down what adjustments you are making so you don't lose track.

The factory linkage can be made to work well, but takes a bit of trial and error sometimes.

PS your fuel filter looks to be on backwards. Check the arrow on it.

 

[Cop car wagon]

You have a universal aftermarket holley, which is fine/good.
You need the mopar linkage attachment that bolts to the holley bellcrank to get the ratio correct. And to align the linkage centerline.

 

[66 Sat]

Yes I missed that. Mine looked similar to this:

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks all. This car is new to me so still learning it. The FF is getting replaced tomorrow. along with a bunch of other checks.

Thanks again,

Mikey.

 

[ckessel]

66 SAT has the same arm as I do. For sure you need that. You can either adjust the slotted unit that hooks to the stud on that arm or the rod on the bell crank that goes down to the trans. I chose to adjust the one heading to the trans. Easy to do. I would drive, pull over to make an adjustment, take off and repeat until I liked it.

 

[MikeyM]

Awesome, thanks. I just ordered it. I'll search for some posts on the setup but might have to reach out to you all for some guidance.

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[ckessel]

BTW. DON'T buy the Holley version of that linkage stud. The throttle cable side is too big to fit the cable.

 

[66 Sat]

Here's a couple of photos that show how it attaches. You can see the spacers I had to use on the stud to get the alignment of the kickdown arm correct.

 

[moes]

Mikey, if your one to two shifts are ok and the shift to third is hanging up, and you have to take your foot off the gas pedal to make it shift into third. You need to shorten the firewall rod linkage. The one in the picture that I highlighted, pull it off the ball and turn it a couple of turns (clockwise) to shorten the rod length. Take it for a drive and see if that helps the shift into third. Your linkage set up the way you have it in your picture should work. Tell us if that worked for you.

 

[1969superbee451]

THROTTLE PRESSURE LINKAGE

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks all.

Moes, I removed that linkage rod as you suggested but it seems to be doing the same thing, not much change. I went 4 total turns which looked like about 1/8". Should I go more?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[ckessel]

Keep going. It took a few stops for me to get it where I wanted it. Drive it, see how it shifts, pull over and adjust, do it again till you're happy.

 

[BDnFL]

Hi All,

I have a new to me 69 Super Bee, 383 with a 727. The one to two shift is fine, but it seems I have to let off the gas for it to shift into third. I’ve read similar posts about adjusting the kickdown linkage, but I have no idea if this is correct. It came with the car so I was hoping you guys could tell me if this mess of linkage is even accurate. I was thinking of just getting the Lokar lockdown cable set up or something similar to simplify. Any advice you guys could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Mikey.

View attachment 1883115

I’ll be watching. I have the same issue on my fresh restoration. First time out, first to second fine no third till I lift the gas.

 

[ckessel]

After I put the new stuff on, the PO had put some sort of eBay cable stuff on the trans and carb that didn't work worth a damn, I started with setting it by the procedure in the FSM. From there drive, stop, adjust, drive, stop adjust until I liked it.

 

[MikeyM]

When in doubt, use the FSM, right? Thanks all, I'll give it a shot asap.

 

[MikeyM]

Ok, so it seems I may have run out of adjustment but am close. I haven't driven it yet BUT... I think my issue is/was that the trans (pressure?) lever was not all the way forward when the cable end was attached to the ball. So I unsnapped the cable end, pulled UP on the rod, which brought the trans lever all the way forward to the "stop". I then turned the adjustment down to where it matched the ball stud but was a hair short until the adjuster bottomed out. I'll take it for a drive in a bit but I think I'm realizing this is what that Holley / 727 linkage adapter is for? Gives a little more distance for the adjustment?


Thanks,
Mike

 

[MikeyM]

Ok, just drove it. Not perfect but WAAY better. When acceleration is "spirited", the 2-3 shift feels fine and firm. When driving easy, it's a bit on the harsh side at lower RPMs. I bet if I could get the adjustment end a bit lower, that would do the trick. I can either cut the rod (which I won't do) or wait and install the Holley adapter. From those who have installed the Holley piece, does it simply allow for more travel on the transmission "down rod" that connects to the ball stud?

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[66 Sat]

I don't think it adds any adjustment, it just helps align everything.

If you're nearly there then it's just fine adjustments from here.

For mine I could not get it to shift perfectly unless I placed a small nut and bolt in the kickdown slot. I tried to eliminate it but I would run out of adjustment on the various levers. I'll edit this with a photo shortly to explain what I mean.

 

[MikeyM]

Thanks 66Sat. The problem I'm having is I can't get any more downward adjustment when turning the adjustable end of the "downrod". It's bottomed out but almost to where it needs to be.

So if the Holley adapter for the linkage just spaces the linkage over a bit (I think that's what I got from what you said) and does not somehow allow for more adjustment of that downrod, I'm kind of at a loss. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mikey