Are you using moly or mild steel?
70 Hemi Superbird Restoration..................errr.....scratch that........
- Thread starter Hemirunner
- Start date
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
4130N chromoly from AED Motorsports.
murfman
Well-Known Member
You are doing fine without it, but I'd recommend the Bend Tech software, if you run into any exceptionally difficult bends. I used it to make the front bumper for my truck with 9 bends on different planes on one tube and it came out perfect on the very first try. I couldn't even imagine doing it any other way.
http://www.bend-tech.com/
Also, are you interested in selling your fiberglass fenders? I'm collecting parts for my own Superbird project.
http://www.bend-tech.com/
Also, are you interested in selling your fiberglass fenders? I'm collecting parts for my own Superbird project.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I contemplated the bend tech software but really didn't see the need for one chassis. I'll probably sell the bender and notcher after this project is done. Yes, I would sell my fiberglass fenders.
HEMI-ITIS
STREETER on LI
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Coming along nicely! Did you leave room for the door panels & headliner?? Keep them pic's coming.:blob1:
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, plenty of room so far to install it all after the bar is in. The part I'm concerned with is getting the A-pillar bars in but still having room for the pillar trim.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
This is how the 30" radials will look. Would like it to sit lower, but I don't think it's going to happen. I should have raised the wheel tubs when I mini tubbed it.
That's what I found on my car. Wheelwell lip about 1" above the rim. Could go lower but want 3" of travel for potholes. Also you will have to shave the front of the wheel opening unless you plan on moving the axle back a bit. Allow 2" for tire growth!
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I can live with this. I may have to do the surgery on the tubs.
HYRDGOON
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Do the surgery, Now is the time
usaroadrunner
Well-Known Member
Hey hemi, you got to be happy with what you want. Putting a ton of work into. You want it lower, make it lower...less drag too. Lol. It's gonna be badass.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
harry heck
Well-Known Member
You are on to something very big! Stay focused.
Make it a no regrets build, and you'll be happy.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping not to regret spending too much money and too much time working on this thing.......:eusa_whistle:
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Got the main hoop assembly welded out. Need to fit the joint better where it meets the driver side of the rear hoop. The plan is to tack the two together in the car, remove it, weld it out and reinstall. You know the saying about the best laid plans though, lol.
usaroadrunner
Well-Known Member
Hemi, it is looking great again...but do you know the other saying...THE MORE BARS YOU HAVE TO PUT IN YOU ARE GOING TO BE FLYING IN THE QUARTER.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Thanks G. I'm doing a 25.3 cert which is good for 6.50 quarter mile times at 3600lbs. It would take 2600hp to do that and I figure I'll be 7 or 800hp shy lol. My goal is to run a 7.90 at 170 or so. I could do that on a 7.50 cert with less work but this chassis will be set if I decide to upgrade the turbos and reach for the stars!!
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Welded the tubes into the floor that tie the #1 bar into the front spring hanger boxes. This bead is holding the torch in my left hand and welding .083 wall tube to the factory **** metal floor.
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There's a couple holes to fill, but considering I'm right handed, I thought this went pretty well.
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I put the main hoop back in and tacked the rear hoop to it. I removed it as an assembly, welded it out, and put it back in.
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Here's how it comes in and out.
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Here are a couple of additions. The tubes in blue are definitely getting added. The X- brace in green, I'm still on the fence with that.
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This is the view from the trunk. We're going to be adding a double frame rail setup in here.
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Here's my professionally rendered blueprint done in PencilCAD 5.0 which is my favorite drafting program next to making Cardboard Sharpie Templates.
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The upper frame rail will tie into the rear hoop bar and the lower frame rail will tie into the inverted hoop that is welded into the main hoop.
- - - Updated - - -
There's a couple holes to fill, but considering I'm right handed, I thought this went pretty well.
- - - Updated - - -
I put the main hoop back in and tacked the rear hoop to it. I removed it as an assembly, welded it out, and put it back in.
- - - Updated - - -
Here's how it comes in and out.
- - - Updated - - -
- - - Updated - - -
Here are a couple of additions. The tubes in blue are definitely getting added. The X- brace in green, I'm still on the fence with that.
- - - Updated - - -
This is the view from the trunk. We're going to be adding a double frame rail setup in here.
- - - Updated - - -
Here's my professionally rendered blueprint done in PencilCAD 5.0 which is my favorite drafting program next to making Cardboard Sharpie Templates.
- - - Updated - - -
The upper frame rail will tie into the rear hoop bar and the lower frame rail will tie into the inverted hoop that is welded into the main hoop.
RM23U0A
Active Member
Hemi ,Just finished all 23 pages plus side notes. It took several hours; but could not put it down. Best written, informative thread ever! Thanks for sharing the details and photos. Wayne
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