71 satellite 318 ignition wiring

hunter.s73

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I have a 71 Plymouth satellite 318/ 904 in it I just put the dash and steering column back in and I can’t get the key to do anything, I have power at the dash( I can turn on the headlights and radio and such)
Could it just be a wire unhooked maybe a ignition switch? Im lost when it comes to the wiring in these cars.I Any help is appreciated
 

71charger_fan

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Did you reconnect the 8-wire connector at the base of the column? I believe it's 7 wires from the harness and 8 wires from the column on your car.

There are two of these connectors. One has a pointed end that carries turn signal wiring. The other is squared off at each end and carries the ignition start/accessories/ignition run. Battery power to the ignition switch comes in through the red wire in the middle of the connector. Yellow is start, black is accessories, dark blue is ignition 2, brown is ignition 1. Two other wires, black on the harness side and red on the column side are key buzzer.

Did you reconnect the ground wire from the steering column to the dash? I don't know if that would cause your problem, but it's easily broken or forgotten.
 
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hunter.s73

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Did you reconnect the 8-wire connector at the base of the column? I believe it's 7 wires from the harness and 8 wires from the column on your car.

There are two of these connectors. One has a pointed end that carries turn signal wiring. The other is squared off at each end and carries the ignition start/accessories/ignition run. Battery power to the ignition switch comes in through the red wire in the middle of the connector. Yellow is start, black is accessories, dark blue is ignition 2, brown is ignition 1. Two other wires, black on the harness side and red on the column side are key buzzer.

Did you reconnect the ground wire from the steering column to the dash? I don't know if that would cause your problem, but it's easily broken or forgotten.
Thank you for the quick response,I know for sure I have the pointed one with the turn signal wires connected for sure, I will check if I have the other one connected would be nice if it was that easy haha. I will post back how it goes, I really appreciate the help I’m pretty good with engine work and suspension and brakes,but when it comes to electrical on these I’m lost especially when I took it apart at 15 with almost no pictures to go off.
 

72RoadrunnerGTX

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Did you reconnect the ground wire from the steering column to the dash? I don't know if that would cause your problem, but it's easily broken or forgotten.
The steering column/ignition switch does not require a ground for the switch to pass power. The small jumper is only there to insure a return path to ground for the horn switch/relay primary.



If the radio comes on, would indicate a power at the ignition switch, at least partially. Inspect the ignition switch Molex terminals closely, common weak point. Underrated for real world current draw. What is it that is not working, won’t crank?
 

hunter.s73

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The steering column/ignition switch does not require a ground for the switch to pass power. The small jumper is only there to insure a return path to ground for the horn switch/relay primary.



If the radio comes on, would indicate a power at the ignition switch, at least partially. Inspect the ignition switch Molex terminals closely, common weak point. Underrated for real world current draw. What is it that is not working, won’t crank?
Yes, it won’t crank or click or anything, prettymuch when I turn the key it does nothing at all besides turns
 

71charger_fan

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I assume you have battery power at the red wire at the 8-way connector. I use my multimeter to check the ignition switch. I just unplug the connector, put a lead on the red wire and one on the yellow and turn it to start. If the multimeter beeps, that's good. Then I check the rest of the connections at the appropriate key position. Remember the brown ignition wire is ignition start so that should have continuity through the switch turned to start. The blue ignition wire should have continuity turned to run. If your ignition switch checks out bad, don't forget to tie a string to the connector before you pull the wires back up through the column. Then you can use the string to pull the new wires back down.
 

hunter.s73

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I assume you have battery power at the red wire at the 8-way connector. I use my multimeter to check the ignition switch. I just unplug the connector, put a lead on the red wire and one on the yellow and turn it to start. If the multimeter beeps, that's good. Then I check the rest of the connections at the appropriate key position. Remember the brown ignition wire is ignition start so that should have continuity through the switch turned to start. The blue ignition wire should have continuity turned to run. If your ignition switch checks out bad, don't forget to tie a string to the connector before you pull the wires back up through the column. Then you can use the string to pull the new wires back down.
I just got out there tonight and I did have both of them plugged in, I used a test light and I have power at the red wire in the 8 pin connector. Going to get a steering wheel puller In the morning would they ignition switch be my next place to look?

image.jpg
 

hunter.s73

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Might have found the issue, went and checked if the neutral safety switch was hooked up and the wires were brittle as can be had 2 of the 3 break just unhooking it
 

Nacho-RT74

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Pigtails are available for that fix, however for the price of the pigtail vs the full harness and considering the rest of harness is still brittle ( this along with the engine harness are allways the most damaged for the engine bay and all around enviroment ), I would recomend a full harness replacement.

pigtail:
1971 PLYMOUTH SATELLITE 5.2L 318cid V8 Neutral Safety Switch / Range Sensor Connector | RockAuto

harness:
MD4515 - 1970-71 Dodge, Plymouth B/E-Body; Back-Up Lamp / Neutral Safety Switch Harness
 

hunter.s73

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Neutral safety switch harness was my issue, I finally got to hear it turn over with the key for the first time in 6 years. the first 3-4 inches was very brittle but the rest was taped and the casing was still soft underneath the tape so I soldered it on and shrink tube.Super excited to finally finish putting it back together and get it on the road. Thanks everyone this was my first post and Definetly not my last.

67CBEC81-1F43-49EA-AF24-748B9AE8C7AE.jpeg
 

71Beeper

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Hunter - what size front tire do you have?
I too will be running the Weld draglites on mine and will use the narrow 3.5" rim up front.
I'm having a hard time finding a 28" tall narrow tire.
June 6 (10).jpg
 

hunter.s73

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Hunter - what size front tire do you have?
I too will be running the Weld draglites on mine and will use the narrow 3.5" rim up front.
I'm having a hard time finding a 28" tall narrow tire.
View attachment 1376492
These are only about 25 inches tall I posted a picture of the size,they are just rollers for now I have different wheels I was debating on running on the fronts
 

71Beeper

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Thanks hunter - a 25" tall front runner is currently what's on my pizza cutter rim now.
It will be too small in dia for my current Runner.
But it did fit quite nicely when I had my previous Road Runner F-body.
654.jpg
 
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