72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[Nxcoupe]

I have Dr Diff's true trac II so it's different than a sure grip. No clutches, so I'm not sure that it would help.

It wouldn't. Whine like yours comes from either poorly hardened gears, like motive, or inproper setup. It's been a minute since I taught this, but depending on if it whines in accell, decel or cruise determines where the issue is. If it's just crap gears, well nothing will ever fix that. I did one set of motive's gears. I got them dead nuts. Pattern was spot on, preload was on point, etc. Test drove it and all was quiet. Customer called and said they were perfect. 6 months later, he stops by and says it started a slight whine. I asked around to my friends that also set up gears and turns out there are quite a few companies getting substandard gear sets from overseas. Hope some of this helps.

 

[supergluehero]

It wouldn't. Whine like yours comes from either poorly hardened gears, like motive, or inproper setup. It's been a minute since I taught this, but depending on if it whines in accell, decel or cruise determines where the issue is. If it's just crap gears, well nothing will ever fix that. I did one set of motive's gears. I got them dead nuts. Pattern was spot on, preload was on point, etc. Test drove it and all was quiet. Customer called and said they were perfect. 6 months later, he stops by and says it started a slight whine. I asked around to my friends that also set up gears and turns out there are quite a few companies getting substandard gear sets from overseas. Hope some of this helps.

I'm worried about that. Every time the timing was checked, it was perfect, but still making a lot of noise.

 

[supergluehero]

So if you recall a few posts earlier I was having issues with my fuel vapor tank and my fuel tank puking gas. I ended up taking it off and just routing the lines into the fender with nothing on them. Today I filled the tank up (over 20 gallons) got home and it did the same thing. This time I noticed that one of the vent lines was actually disconnected. I was baffled at how a tank with a vent open to atmosphere could become pressurized. After I depressurized the tank, a few minutes later it was still dripping. I talked with Aeromotive about the issue and the best we could come up with is that I overfilled the tank to the point where the vents couldn't function. I think for now I'm going to crack my gas cap when I get home after filling up. I'd like to put some kind of relief valve on the filler neck, but I'm not sure something like that exists. The good news is my vapor canister can go back in.

 

[Nxcoupe]

So if you recall a few posts earlier I was having issues with my fuel vapor tank and my fuel tank puking gas. I ended up taking it off and just routing the lines into the fender with nothing on them. Today I filled the tank up (over 20 gallons) got home and it did the same thing. This time I noticed that one of the vent lines was actually disconnected. I was baffled at how a tank with a vent open to atmosphere could become pressurized. After I depressurized the tank, a few minutes later it was still dripping. I talked with Aeromotive about the issue and the best we could come up with is that I overfilled the tank to the point where the vents couldn't function. I think for now I'm going to crack my gas cap when I get home after filling up. I'd like to put some kind of relief valve on the filler neck, but I'm not sure something like that exists. The good news is my vapor canister can go back in.
View attachment 1842597

Uhm, why are there no clamps on those hoses attached to a gas tank?

 

[supergluehero]

Uhm, why are there no clamps on those hoses attached to a gas tank?

Fair point, but there weren't any on the old tank and never had an issue. Plus they're just vents, so there shouldn't be any pressure, but obviously that's not the case.

 

[71Beeper]

From the factory, those hoses had this type of clamp on them.

I remember ripping them apart when I took the tank out of my 71 Runner.

 

[supergluehero]

From the factory, those hoses had this type of clamp on them.
View attachment 1843986

I remember ripping them apart when I took the tank out of my 71 Runner.

Ok, yeah those are the style that are on the canister side. I've managed to keep them mostly intact. I'm guessing the PO wasn't as careful with the ones on the tank.

 

[HEMIB]

Ok, yeah those are the style that are on the canister side. I've managed to keep them mostly intact. I'm guessing the PO wasn't as careful with the ones on the tank.

Just had the same problem filed my tank with cold fuel once it expanded in the warm tank it pushed the excess out the breather thought the tank had split took the cap off too be greeted with a woosh of air

 

[supergluehero]

I have noticed that if I try to restart my engine immediately after driving it doesn't want to start. The starter isn't continuously turning the motor. It's almost as if I have a dead battery. The longer I wait the better it is. To me this indicates vapor lock. Would you guys agree? I didn't think I'd have this problem since the regulator is on the firewall with a return line. I suppose the line to the fuel rail could be getting heat soaked. Thoughts?

 

[mpgmike]

Vapor lock will not cause a slow cranking issue. You describe the symptom "as if I have a dead battery". I'm thinking more like a bad starter.

 

[HEMIB]

Or cables are too small along with a hot starter

 

[supergluehero]

Or cables are too small along with a hot starter

It's been a while so I can't recall my cable sizes off hand but I believe I was conservative and went a little larger than necessary. A hot starter sounds plausible. I have a mini starter and TTI headers. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this combination. Perhaps I need to wrap my headers?

 

[HEMIB]

I wrapped a turbo blanket around my 426 R3 with TTI headers when it got hot you would have to wait for it to cool before it would turn also a clockable starter may help create a bit of clearance

 

[supergluehero]

I recently picked up a 3D printer so I made a new seatbelt guide since the Cobalt ones were still too high.

I also designed this cupholder extension for my center console so my boys in the back had a place to put their drinks.

I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do with the space the air vents were. Maybe a sunglass storage nook or a panel to add switches in the future.

 

[supergluehero]

So I've had a few issues pop up. Let's start with the easy stuff.

The shifter arm I made was great, but it didn't clear cups in my cupholder. I bought a cheap knob and put together a new arm. I needed a T-shifter, but I didn't like the Hurst style. The cheapo ones look nice, but they have a M18 fine thread which is almost impossible to find stuff for. I found a 3/8 NPT is actually pretty close. Since it's a taper fit, I may have a hard time clocking it correctly, but haven't gotten that far yet. I 3D printed a fixture for welding up a nipple.

The other issue I have is my fuel tank is leaking when full (even when I remember to leave the cap off). Guess I'm gonna have to drop the tank and reseal the penetrations... again.

The big issue is my driver wheel bearing failed with only 3k miles. Either I used the wrong grease or not enough or both. The passenger side looks fine though. The inner bearing inner race more or less fused to the spindle and the outer race carved up the hub. I have all the replacement parts coming tomorrow, but I can't find the spindle part number that came with the RMS kit. The ones at Wilwood are two piece and the stock ones aren't made for Wilwood brakes. Does anybody know? I haven't heard back from Bill, so I'm not sure what's going on over there.

 

[Nxcoupe]

So I've had a few issues pop up. Let's start with the easy stuff.

The shifter arm I made was great, but it didn't clear cups in my cupholder. I bought a cheap knob and put together a new arm. I needed a T-shifter, but I didn't like the Hurst style. The cheapo ones look nice, but they have a M18 fine thread which is almost impossible to find stuff for. I found a 3/8 NPT is actually pretty close. Since it's a taper fit, I may have a hard time clocking it correctly, but haven't gotten that far yet. I 3D printed a fixture for welding up a nipple.
View attachment 1976801
The other issue I have is my fuel tank is leaking when full (even when I remember to leave the cap off). Guess I'm gonna have to drop the tank and reseal the penetrations... again.

The big issue is my driver wheel bearing failed with only 3k miles. Either I used the wrong grease or not enough or both. The passenger side looks fine though. The inner bearing inner race more or less fused to the spindle and the outer race carved up the hub. I have all the replacement parts coming tomorrow, but I can't find the spindle part number that came with the RMS kit. The ones at Wilwood are two piece and the stock ones aren't made for Wilwood brakes. Does anybody know? I haven't heard back from Bill, so I'm not sure what's going on over there.
View attachment 1976805
View attachment 1976806
View attachment 1976807

Not enough grease. Put gobs of grease in the rotor hub between the 2 races. And pack bearings with lots of grease.