727-A kickdown leaver has no stop?!?

[GassMann]

Hey all,

A few years ago I rebuilt my 727-A transmission. First time I have ever rebuilt a trans. I happened to find an old training video that took me from start to finish, tear down to assembly. Roll forward a few years (after body work, paint and engine rebuild) and I have the car ready to drive. I am adjusting the throttle kickdown linkage and the manual says to wire the kickdown leaver forward against the stop. But there is no stop. It can move forward all the way to the housing. Pushing it backwards to just before the 90 degree position and I feel spring pressure.

I am not sure if this is normal or if I missed something in the rebuild. The trans does engage reverse and drive. So, not sure how to adjust this or if I have really screwed the pooch on this rebuild.

Is this maybe normal and should I start with the adjustment at just before spring pressure? Any ideas???

Thanks in advance for any pro tips you can give.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Hey all,

A few years ago I rebuilt my 727-A transmission. First time I have ever rebuilt a trans. I happened to find an old training video that took me from start to finish, tear down to assembly. Roll forward a few years (after body work, paint and engine rebuild) and I have the car ready to drive. I am adjusting the throttle kickdown linkage and the manual says to wire the kickdown leaver forward against the stop. But there is no stop. It can move forward all the way to the housing. Pushing it backwards to just before the 90 degree position and I feel spring pressure.

I am not sure if this is normal or if I missed something in the rebuild. The trans does engage reverse and drive. So, not sure how to adjust this or if I have really screwed the pooch on this rebuild.

Is this maybe normal and should I start with the adjustment at just before spring pressure? Any ideas???

Thanks in advance for any pro tips you can give.

Do you have the carburetor stud installed for the slotted kick down rod to butt up against? Do you have the kick down spring installed to keep the rod positioned forward?

 

[Rishi]

Do you have the carburetor stud installed for the slotted kick down rod to butt up against? Do you have the kick down spring installed to keep the rod positioned forward?

Good call, @MWbirdLOVER70

The #12 link in the image above, has a slot fitting over the carburetor throttle shaft stud.

From memory, you lock the upper bell crank by feeding a drill bit or screw driver through a smallish hole in the upper bell crank and throttle cable bracket.

You then screw the flat-bladed part of the slotted link in/out until it just makes contact with the carburetor stud (with the carburetor stud at it's idle, rear-most position).

If you have this part, could you clarify where you're not seeing a "Stop" ?

 

[turbine68rt]

As mentioned, do you have your stop screw installed or is it backed out too far? There should only be a small amount of travel between the stop and the beginning of compressing the kickdown valve.

 

[GassMann]

Do you have the carburetor stud installed for the slotted kick down rod to butt up against? Do you have the kick down spring installed to keep the rod positioned forward?

Yes I do... I have the 3/16's pin (drill bit) in to lock the arm. The slot is as far back as it can go. The stop I am referring to is noted in the manual. Turnbin68rt... the image your showing looks like it is from inside the housing. Is this correct? I don't recall seeing such a screw. Is it adjustable if I drop the pan?

 

[turbine68rt]

When you disconnect the intermediate rod at the upper bellcrank, the lever at the trans should be all the way forward until it stops, then adjust the rod height to match the ball/socket connection, as per step #4. Was this step completed?

 

[GassMann]

The leaver does not stop. It can move forward until it hits the transmission case/housing. it will keep moving forward until it hits metal.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

That lever increases and decreases govener pressure and should be hooked up. It moves forward and back as throttle increased/decreased via kick down linkage

 

[GassMann]

Yea... I think I f'ed up and either didn't adjust the stop bolt or something else is going on. After looking at several YouTube videos on the valve body, I think I screwed the stop screw in and missed adjusting it for depth. As I understand it, there should be 1/8" gap between the valve and the lever pall when the stop screw is properly adjusted and locked down. The only way to tell is to drop the pan and visually look at the body valve position. If it is indeed not adjusted, I will have to pull the valve body out and adjust it.

 

[GassMann]

Pulled the pan... found the problem. The kickdown pall can move up and down. There's enough play that it can work down below the screw. The leaver that the linkage attaches to has a stop that can't go any lower. It's almost like there should be a spacer between the gear select and the throttle kickdown leaver.

Here's a quick video to show what I mean.



I would love to NOT have to pull the valve body out to correct this. Any suggestions?

 

[Rishi]

I would love to NOT have to pull the valve body out to correct this. Any suggestions?

Good job figuring out the problem. I would not relish dropping the valve body and having to torque it back in laying on my back. But I think I'd prefer that over pulling the whole tranny.

As I get older, I'm finding I cannot fix some things unless I have them on the bench with proper lighting and I can see what's going on.

I don't think dropping the valve body is going to help you, here.

I've only rebuilt a few 727s and that was a couple of decades ago, so from fading memory and instinct, I suspect if you loosen the bolt on the outer lever (connecting to the rod outside the tranny), you can push the post upward while pressing that lever further down onto the post. Tighten things into place to hold the post in place (as well as that lower lever hitting the stop in your video.)

Give that a shot and if it doesn't budge, confirm with your camera best you can if there is or is not room left on the post for the lever to go further.

 

[GassMann]

Good job figuring out the problem. I would not relish dropping the valve body and having to torque it back in laying on my back. But I think I'd prefer that over pulling the whole tranny.

As I get older, I'm finding I cannot fix some things unless I have them on the bench with proper lighting and I can see what's going on.

I don't think dropping the valve body is going to help you, here.

I've only rebuilt a few 727s and that was a couple of decades ago, so from fading memory and instinct, I suspect if you loosen the bolt on the outer lever (connecting to the rod outside the tranny), you can push the post upward while pressing that lever further down onto the post. Tighten things into place to hold the post in place (as well as that lower lever hitting the stop in your video.)

Give that a shot and if it doesn't budge, confirm with your camera best you can if there is or is not room left on the post for the lever to go further.

I think I figured it out. There is a C clip that locks the throttler kickdown in place. Underneath the c clip is a spacer. I bet I missed putting it back in after I replaced the seal. I am not sure I can get it in without dropping the valve body but it sits above the seal and that is just under the leaver arm and c clip so... if I have enough space, I might be able to get it in without taking the exhaust out.

 

[GassMann]

Well, you won't believe what happened when I pulled the valve body out. The accumulator fell out and low and behold, a broken spring. It must have broken when I first put it in to drive. It reversed fine but would not go into drive.

Now I am looking for an accumulator spring for an A727 trans. Does anyone know where I can get such a spring?

 

[GassMann]

I think I figured it out. There is a C clip that locks the throttler kickdown in place. Underneath the c clip is a spacer. I bet I missed putting it back in after I replaced the seal. I am not sure I can get it in without dropping the valve body but it sits above the seal and that is just under the leaver arm and c clip so... if I have enough space, I might be able to get it in without taking the exhaust out.

BTW Rishi... I TOTALLY understand what you mean. It is getting harder for me to kneel down and drop onto a roller. On my back is no big deal but DAMN... getting up and down 20+ times a day... that is getting tough.

 

[turbine68rt]

Well, you won't believe what happened when I pulled the valve body out. The accumulator fell out and low and behold, a broken spring. It must have broken when I first put it in to drive. It reversed fine but would not go into drive.

Now I am looking for an accumulator spring for an A727 trans. Does anyone know where I can get such a spring?

View attachment 1505648

I should have one I can send to you. Pm me with your address.

 

[oldkimmer]

I have a few also if needed. Kim

 

[oldkimmer]

The broken accc is not why u don’t have forward gears. Air pressure test the case passages with about 30 psi. Also make sure u have the manual valve adjusted flush with the outside of the valve body. Kim

 

[beanhead]

The broken accc is not why u don’t have forward gears.

Thisꜛꜛꜛ
Many people just leave the spring out for better performance. Some will put something like a small length of pipe in it's place, some do nothing which can be debated but either way it works fine with no spring.

 

[oldkimmer]

Also the Hemi and 440-6 had a spring inside the acc for mor performance oriented up shifts. Kim

 

[threewood]

Thisꜛꜛꜛ
Many people just leave the spring out for better performance. Some will put something like a small length of pipe in it's place, some do nothing which can be debated but either way it works fine with no spring.

Mine is blocked with a rod, no spring.